Technic General Discussion

[Junpei]

Ok, thanks. I wonder if it would work well for a mobile crane, it's quite a bit cheaper than buying all those gear rack pieces.

[DrJB]

It comes out to about the same price. The long rack sells for over $3.00 and the small racks for about $0.60. Since the long is about 5x as long as the short, it's almost breakeven.

Edited November 17, 2013 by DrJB

[Blakbird]

I just found this while browsing Technicopedia:

And I am not familiar with the piece for the boom extension. Does anyone know what it is?

Looks like you got that from my 8854 page. If you keep browsing to the page for the 1989 sets, you'll find a summary of the new parts for that year including the rack gear you are looking for.

http://www.technicopedia.com/1989.html#Parts

[Lipko]

Hi all!

I started a new topic about camera choosing, but I believe there are many people here who only read the Technic subtopic and have experience with filming moving creations with small details.

So here it goes:

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88642

Thank you!

[TinkerBrick]

Greetings!

I just browsed through the BrickLink Catalogue and found this part: x334c01, Technic, Axle Flexible 26L (Axle 2L and 4.5L Ends) with Dark Gray Cable.

Could someone share his/her experience with this axle.

I was surprised to find this. The sets (3571 and 3552) that included it were sold in my dark ages.

It seems it could be useful, but it is any good. What amount of torque can it handle.

Since a single axle costs almost 4€ in Germany, it would be helpful to get some facts on this one.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: I just found out it belongs to the Znap branch of TLG. But the axle should be compatible with Technic, shouldn't it?

Edited November 17, 2013 by TinkerBrick

[Junpei]

Yes, it's all compatible, actually Znap beams have the same size holes as standard Technic. I have thought about this part before, I don't have one myself but I too would like to see how it performs, it has to be good for something. The axle lengths on the ends are a bit odd...

[nychase]

Scroll to the bottom.

http://www.genuinemodels.com/ideas.htm

I have quite a few of these. Never utilized them yet but when the appropriate situation strikes I will. I imagine they would be usefull for digger arms where you want to avoid mouting a motor on the arm and don't have the space for CV joints.

[Junpei]

Oh, I should have thought of that. It would be perfect for powering LA's or a bucket tilt function for an RC model.

[legomania94]

hello boy wanted to ask but if you know where I can find a 8043 at a good price? thank you very much

[D3K]

You needed to create a new topic to ask this?

Do like everyone else: keep your eyes open! If you are lucky, you'll come upon a good deal. It's not like there is a secret "Super Cheap Lego 8043 Store" that sells them a lot cheaper than other stores

[Jim]

There's a General Discussion topic for simple questions. Please use it.

Technic General Discussion

And like D3K said, keep your eyes open. Look on eBay, Bricklink, etc.

I will be merging this topic with the General Topic in a bit.

[Jim]

Topic merged.

[DrJB]

Greetings!

I just browsed through the BrickLink Catalogue and found this part: x334c01, Technic, Axle Flexible 26L (Axle 2L and 4.5L Ends) with Dark Gray Cable.

Could someone share his/her experience with this axle.

I was surprised to find this. The sets (3571 and 3552) that included it were sold in my dark ages.

It seems it could be useful, but it is any good. What amount of torque can it handle.

Since a single axle costs almost 4€ in Germany, it would be helpful to get some facts on this one.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: I just found out it belongs to the Znap branch of TLG. But the axle should be compatible with Technic, shouldn't it?

It is compatible but has one weakness though. If you spin it one way, it'll do fine, but if you overload it in the opposite direction, the flex-metal will unscrew from the plastis and becomes useless.I'd say it's only 'ok' for moderate/reversible loads.

[Technyk32231]

Is it just me, or does this crawler have surprisingly advanced suspension geometry?

http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=449789

Except for the negative caster, of course...

Reason for edit: Mainly not to make nicjasno upset. :)

Edited November 22, 2013 by Technyk32231

[MrNumbskull13]

I want to make a vehicle that can drift, should the weight be centred, slightly forward or slightly to the back...

Anyone got any experience? Thanks. :)

[nicjasno]

Is it just me, or does this crawler have surprisingly advanced suspension geometry?http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=449789Except for the negative caster, of course...Reason for edit: Mainly not to make nicjasno upset. :)

I see nothing advanced on it. Edited December 2, 2013 by nicjasno

[DrJB]

Not sure I'd call it 'advanced'. It looks like axles often in pick-up/large trucks with solid front/rear axles, attached to the main body with multiple links (4 each). One typical american car that had a similar suspension was the Jeep Grand Cherokee pre-2000. With such solid axle suspension, such axle must be 'located' laterally with a link arm. Essentially, without it, the axle can 'float' side-to-side. The other difficulty with such design is that the shock absorbers must have spherical (not cylindrical) connections to both the chassis and axle.

[Gee]

Just come out of my dark Age. I've got a lot of studded lego (big sets are the Test Car and Air Claw Rig) and a very very small amount of studless (the small tracked cane).

I've just ordered an XL motor and a M motor along with remote etc in the hope of a - motorizing current sets and b - creating some MOCs. Since I intend to use the M motor for steering, I got a 24 tooth clutch gear (recommended from what I heard).

What problems might I run into using PF on old Technic sets?

[legolijntje]

Well, I don't think there won't be any problems that are only related to the fact that you use studded Technic. That's the beauty of Lego, it still fits, even after 10 or 20 years

Only disadvantage I can think of at the moment, is the fact that the old studded Technic has an even number of studs, but the new Technic is built around an uneven number of holes. So, the m and the xl motor are both 3 and 5 holes wide, which makes it a little more difficult to nicely center them in a studded model. But on the other hand, the old Technic also has an uneven number of holes, so it depends on if you want it centered according to the studs or to the holes. But you can still use them very well. I hope I'm clear enough, that explanation is kind of vague

[DrJB]

I do not see any issue. Those same motors are used in other 'non-technic' official lego sets. Attaching the XL/M motors to studded bean should be easy as well as the spacing between pin holes if fairly consistent across beams and liftarms.

[Gee]

Cool. Yeah, I get what you mean, it will all depend on how I built them in I guess.

What about issues of the torque produced destroying older type gears and differentials?

[legolijntje]

Well, I think there won't be any problems regarding destroying things, unless you putt a lot of stress on the motors (and the parts) or the part was already cracked

If you want to read more about all kinds of Lego motors, I can recommend this webpage Be warned; it can get quite... technical

[Gee]

Thanks for the link. I saw this already. You're right, it does get very heavy! I'm not sure I need to know all that detail!

[Junpei]

I don't think you'll have an issue with the old 24t gears, but I've only broken one once, and that was something without a motor. So I think you're fine motorizing this stuff unless you drop it off a table.

[JGW3000]

I don't think you'll have an issue with the old 24t gears, but I've only broken one once

I am curious about what is other people's experience with the durability of LEGO parts? I've broken a 3L pin/axle connector and smashed a pin connector, but haven't seen much else. OTOH, GBC seem to go and go and go who knows how many hours without failures...