Heya,

First post on eurobricks so hope to like it. Here is my Audi Quattro S1 so far. The idea is to make it non motorized (there will be room for motors dw), 4wd with steering and a fake inline 5 engine realistic to the actual car. It’ll have all wheel independent wishbone suspension with about 3 studs of travel. When I’m finished I’ll submit it to lego ideas as I think it would make a good set (yes I know they have made a speed champions set, they made one of the Porsche 911 in a technic set too). Here are some photos, leave your thoughts below.

Thanks, Aquarius :)

Ins't it too short or too wide?

For this scale that engine looks too samll.

Welcome to eurobricks!

I'll have to second Jurss's comment about the proportions, having a quick look at the blueprints (highly recommend using Sariel's scaler) the distance between the axles should be of 30 studs, and the width of 25 with those wheels.

Also, if you try to route the steering under the differential, you should have enough space to place the engine in the correct location (more to the back of where it currently is)

 

Good luck, and enjoy building such a legendary car!

I recommend using this to get your proportions right: http://scaler.sariel.pl/ I use it too and its such a great help 

The engine is way to far in front, like I know the S1 was pretty front-heavy, but the engine was still placed between the front wheels and not in front of them 

I don't want to discourage you, but your building techniques suggest that you haven't built a lot of big technic models and still lack experience. I am not saying I am perfect, I still have a lot to learn as well. But it does not matter, because LEGO does not choose any Technic models on LEGO Ideas 

23 minutes ago, syclone said:

Welcome to eurobricks!

I'll have to second Jurss's comment about the proportions, having a quick look at the blueprints (highly recommend using Sariel's scaler) the distance between the axles should be of 30 studs, and the width of 25 with those wheels.

Also, if you try to route the steering under the differential, you should have enough space to place the engine in the correct location (more to the back of where it currently is)

 

Good luck, and enjoy building such a legendary car!

Thanks for the tips, I had heard of sariel’s model scaler but didn’t know what it was or how to use it, I’ll check it out.

I’d recommend using the wheels from 8880 on it as those are way too wide for an 80’s car, even a group b monster like that. 

10 minutes ago, MinusAndy said:

I’d recommend using the wheels from 8880 on it as those are way too wide for an 80’s car, even a group b monster like that. 

Those wheels do fit best, but they are pretty old... Since the 8880 wheels would up the scale to 1:8 the defender wheels would be an option as well. 

Looks good, but I would lengthen the wheelbase.

Edited February 20, 20214 yr by Andman
Removed overlay for frontview, because it was not accurate.

Like above comments I would also lengthen the wheelbase. Also you could use harder shocks as I worry soft shocks might not be able to hold a heavy model.

Edited February 19, 20214 yr by PangolinBricks
Spelling

Yes, I agree with everybody, But also pleas put the engine a bit higher up, like the real car! If you are thinking of submitting this to IDEAS, it's gonna need to have some SERIOUS styling, with lots of system bricks. Otherwise great idea, and good luck!

@Andman what is that overlay?

I have tried to put the engine further back but as you might be able to see in photo 3 there is a diff, steering rack, double bevel gear for the engine and suspension to fit in such a small space, so I’ve only managed to put it back 1 stud. As for the rims I will obviously change them, was thinking the same in another colour but I’ll look at 8880. Also might change to harder shocks I’ll see once I’ve done the body.

I feel like these rims look a bit worse than these: (I did see these on another Quattro S1 on eurobricks)

however the only colours similar to the Quattros are in light grey or chrome :/

Edited February 20, 20214 yr by Aquarius

Steering goes over the diff.

6 hours ago, Jurss said:

@Andman what is that overlay?

I create these by hand with Studio (big wall of 5x5 fields), Irfanview (modifying blueprints) and Gimp (creating overlay).

Re-upload of front view (now more accurate)

Edited February 20, 20214 yr by Andman

-=- Update 1 -=-

I’m not sure how I’m gonna carry on updating. Either I carry on this post with updates or I make a new one but I assume it’s better if I update this one so here we are.

v Changes v

> Firstly I saw how many people were saying it was too short or the proportions are off so I’m definitely making it longer for a start. Still need to completely do sariels model scaler I’m a bit confused with the second part (Draw the known dimension?). 

> Previously I used a weird design to steer the wheels as seen in the original photo no 4. However this was very flimsy and unprofessional. I’m not using a 3l axle with stopper with a stud (bricklink part no 6587) which fits almost perfectly in a 6l link.

> I moved the engine back 1 stud and I realize that it’s meant to be in between the wheels but there’s no way I’m ever getting it there and anyways it’s out of the car rn so that I can re route the drive shaft so it’ll probably get moved around a lot.

v Additions v

> Since it’s going to be a lot bigger I thought I may as well add a gear box. I only have 2 shifting pieces (bricklink part no 18947) so it’s only 4 speed. I may make it 6 if I buy another but for now it’s 4. Btw it’s dgustsfsson13’s design.

Also small disclaimer I want to live up to the standard and do justice to this car but I’m not going to make everything 100% to proportion and exactly authentic. I’ve never built a decently proportional car and I am going to do some research into scaling and I’ll try my best to make it authentic but you’re gonna get a grey gear build (I like the rx-7 a lot btw ). Anyway hope you like it :)

Edited February 24, 20214 yr by Aquarius

Thank you for putting the [WIP] in the title, and for updating this thread instead of making a new one. That's how it is supposed to be done 

What you are trying to do here is pretty tough, especially in 1:10 scale. I know I could do a quattro with 4wd and a 6-speed manual in 1:8 scale, but in 1:10? Thats a whole different story. 

I would use these suspension arms, and mount the shocks vertically on the lower one. If you then move the steering rack behind the front diff, you should be able to move back the engine another~2-3 studs I think. Mounting the engine beside or above the front diff is impossible in this scale I expect.

For the model scaler: after feeding the scaler a blueprint/image you need to give it a reference how to calculate all the rest. Just measure how many studs hight your wheel is irl, type it in the scaler, draw a line on the wheel on the blueprint and hit "calculate".

I hope this helps a little 

7 hours ago, Aquarius said:

Also small disclaimer I want to live up to the standard and do justice to this car but I’m not going to make everything 100% to proportion and exactly authentic. I’ve never built a decently proportional car and I am going to do some research into scaling and I’ll try my best to make it authentic but you’re gonna get a grey gear build (I like the rx-7 a lot btw ). Anyway hope you like it :)

 

 

 

I reckon that’s the right attitude to have. Lego is never going to be a100% accurate representation, it’s almost like a caricature so as long as you get the overall proportions and the key features then you can add Lego personality to it in spades.

regarding scale, your benchmark measurement is wheel size. You only have a few options there and as 80’s rally cars tend to roll on smaller wheels it will affect the scale you eventually produce the model at. 
the 8880 wheels happened to be the perfect size and shape for me to build the car at 1:7 scale. Scale is just a number to allow you to have a common factor to make size decisions on. So for example, if you put a side view of the beast into sariels scaler and you know that the wheel you are using is say 10 studs high. Draw that dimension onto the scaler and it will then proportion all the other measurements you make from the drawing accordingly. 
I hope that helps.

I’ll be following this build as I ‘kin love group B. It was basically wacky races in real life and contained the kind of reckless lunacy and shed engineering that I wish more motorsport had. Sure people died but that’s a small price to pay for seeing a 700bhp car doing 140mph down a farm track covered in people with fire coming out of the exhaust.

Thanks for the replies, very nice :) I know how to use the model scaler apart from the part of draw on the measurements it’s seems a bit imprecise to have 2 dots on an image. I’ll try again later. With those suspension arms grey gear suggested I might use them in the back as currently it has loads of play, however I don’t really feel like rebuilding the entire front. Idk maybe I will be for now as I said in the disclaimer I’m not going to make it 100% accurate so although the motor is a bit too far for the front grill to fit nicely it’s not a massive problemo. I did try using a live axle cage thingy (bricklink part no 92910) but it didn’t have enough sturdy attachments. I do think moving the rack behind could be useful and I know I could do it so that miiiiiiiiight be done by next update but no guaranties. Anyway ty :)

I recommend implementing the ability to add 1 more yellow shock absorber per side. 

If you really want to build a sturdy and stiff frame and body, then the weight of will drastically affect your ride height. 

Adding another shock absorber and mounting the shocks vertically will help.

On 2/27/2021 at 4:29 PM, nano21 said:

I recommend implementing the ability to add 1 more yellow shock absorber per side. 

If you really want to build a sturdy and stiff frame and body, then the weight of will drastically affect your ride height. 

Adding another shock absorber and mounting the shocks vertically will help.

Even with only one shock absorber it is really stiff. I doubt I’ll need to add another but thx for the suggestion 

-=- Update 2 -=-

v Changes v

> I’ve rearranged the steering so that the rack can go behind the diff, this was actually incredibly easy and allows me to put the engine 2 studs back, I think this is enough.

> Took a bit of time to re-colour all of the grey pieces (that I could) to black because.. why not? There are still a few in grey but I’m not bothered, however I’m not sure if I’ll have enough to do that rear axle but that’s kinda on hold for the moment.

> When I went to put the gear box back in I moved it 1 stud closer to the axle just because. I really want to make it 6 speed now because there’s no reason of going to this detail and scale if it’s not even 6 speed. Also the mounts are very much un finished.

v Additions v

> I re-added the engine so it’s technically not an addition but hey, I make my own rules . I actually geared down the engine input because the gearbox is geared in a way that means in the lowest gear it doesn’t have nearly enough torque to even move the motor. I want a flush underneath so I used universal links to connect it (also because I didn’t want too many gears) but I don’t think I’ve done a very good job in the front of connecting it as seen in photo 4, give me your suggestions preferably with common pieces in the replies .

Also just out of curiosity how do you get on to the front page of eurobricks i.e. are there specifications?

Edited March 10, 20213 yr by Aquarius

this looks promising. I'm just concerned about one thing, if you compress the suspension, I'm pretty sure the chassis will touch the ground…

It does but since suspension is so hard I a) doubt it’ll ever really go that far b) is that not realistic? Sure real cars may not touch the ground but when I see group b cars landing from jumps they do hug the ground a bit.

On 3/10/2021 at 6:14 PM, Aquarius said:

Also just out of curiosity how do you get on to the front page of eurobricks i.e. are there specifications

If Your build will be worth it, You will get there.