Now that's one gorgeous studless replica

It looks very nice. Perhaps bonnet would look smoother with this panel?

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=62531#T=C

Where’s the snow plow? 

11 hours ago, KevinMD said:

Where’s the snow plow? 

It us summer time in northern hemisphere so @Seasider has some 6 month time to make snow plow 

Edited June 24, 20213 yr by I_Igor

15 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

It us summer time in northern hemisphere so @Seasider has some 6 month time to make snow plow 

 I absolutely adore this set (both original and @Seasider ‘s) so would love to see both versions updated, even if waiting until colder temperatures!

1 hour ago, KevinMD said:

 I absolutely adore this set (both original and @Seasider ‘s) so would love to see both versions updated, even if waiting until colder temperatures!

@suffocationThanks for your comments .

@KevinMD - I’m only going to build the bucket. 8848 is amazing as it comes with instructions for 4 different attachments and also a car B-model. Out of interest I’ve always wondered what the 2 tipper end pieces on the end of the arm attachment was supposed to represent?

also as @I_Igor says it’s summer here so why do I need a snow plow.

Update time:

This doesn’t look like much of an update but the whole front half of the chassis is new (apart from steering mech). This was after a couple of nights of CAD and then last night updating the physical build.

It took a lot of time and effort in the CAD to work out how to get the bucket lift mech in place and I’m pleased with my solution. It still needs a tidy though. 

I’ve just put in a bricklink order so hopefully the next update will ditch the white parts.

Then in the plan it’s to tidy the mech and cab mounting, and modify and mount the bucket.

Looking at the images above you can see it has a terrible/useless/horrible (delete as appropriate 🙂) turning circle, this is caused by the grey panels that make the front. I can’t move them vertically up 1 stud and I don’t want the bring them forward or shorten the wheelbase (as it’s the same as the original), so I might need a plan B. Might do a CAD version with Macaroni piece for the bumper.

Next update won’t be until Sunday as I’m away for a couple of days seeing family. Then next week will be a very short build week for me (perhaps only Monday night) as I need to work on my other project, below, before the main carshow season starts.

 

1 hour ago, Seasider said:

@suffocationThanks for your comments .

@KevinMD - I’m only going to build the bucket. 8848 is amazing as it comes with instructions for 4 different attachments and also a car B-model. Out of interest I’ve always wondered what the 2 tipper end pieces on the end of the arm attachment was supposed to represent?

Maybe for cutting grass allthough there are no rotating blades. Could use the PTO for that with additional parts

There are also instructions for a bunch of other interesting attachments using the 8710 set and guidelines on how to motorize it

Technic sure was something else back then

Edit : Pop up lights! Very fitting car for someone who likes 80's Technic

Edited June 25, 20213 yr by 1974

2 hours ago, Seasider said:

 I need to work on my other project, below, before the main carshow season starts.

I really need to put a few hours in on my lego entry instead..

@1974 I did wonder if it was meant to be a grass cutting device. My 8848 is actually from my own childhood, along with a few other old Technic sets I have. Also pop-up headlights are always cool. It was one of the reasons for buying the MX-5!

@brickless_kiwi that roll cage looks like it means business. I guess it’s a race / track day car? Mines just a weekend toy although I’ve done a track day in it twice it’s set up for fast road use.

Very nice TC20 model, a little Unimog.；）

Only a quick 50mins or so tweaking time tonight and worked on this. Theoretically this should actually give me better steering movement (I’ve not built it yet so not certain). it also has the advantage of reducing the front overhang by 1 stud to make it more accurate to the original. What do people think ?

 

if I get any build time Wednesday or Thursday night (if I’m not playing with the yellow toy) then I’ll try and build this physically. Also my bricklink orders have arrived so I can ditch the white parts in my physical build.

Oh and does anyone know how to position the new diff in Stud.io? I can’t get the red gear to clip to the diff or mount the whole lot in a square frame. My usual tricks with pins and axle pins isn’t working

Edited June 28, 20213 yr by Seasider

Shouldn't the curved panel on the hood be swapped to one with less pinholes? I mean, there's no apparent structural need to use the 10 hole variant, so why not the other one?

7 hours ago, howitzer said:

Shouldn't the curved panel on the hood be swapped to one with less pinholes? I mean, there's no apparent structural need to use the 10 hole variant, so why not the other one?

At the moment I need the one with the lots of pin holes as I use the extra holes on the front to mount the headlights but I also use the 4 holes in a row to mount the panel.

however it’s on my list of potential improvement if I get time and importantly work out how to solve it!

22 minutes ago, Seasider said:

At the moment I need the one with the lots of pin holes as I use the extra holes on the front to mount the headlights but I also use the 4 holes in a row to mount the panel.

however it’s on my list of potential improvement if I get time and importantly work out how to solve it!

As minor as it is for a cosmetic detail, hopefully you find a way to fix it, as the cutouts for pinholes detract from the original look a bit. Otherwise, great work so far!

For the pin holes on the front, I am assuming the blue pins are the three long, could you swap this for a flick-fire missile piece with a two long pin on the end to attach whatever needs to be attached ( this might not work though ) and use cheese slopes attached to the stud of the missile piece to give a smoother slope.

Regardless, brilliant work so far

I prefer the chunky panel as the bumper. The only way I can see you improving the steering is to move the pivot point into the hub. Not impossible but certainly a huge reworking. Maybe a number 22 and 23 panel just to have some shape perhaps? 

Yes it's a road legal race car. The cage is not as serious as what is in the racecar but still a lot more serious than a track day car. 

Left side looks better (as bumper) and overall looks very nice

I'd place the headlights half+half studs apart, if it's possible.
Otherwise it's my favorite entry so far. I like the panel bumber much better, even if it's a bit off from the original.

I also like the panel bumper on the left. If you can make it work, I would. 

I hate to encourage you to change the steering linkage, but can you do a design like this but use liftarms as the mount, and Part 87082 as the pivot and Part 42003 as the mount to the steering link, with a 4 axle with stop for the axle. This might help you get a little better steering geometry.

Thanks for your comments everyone. So back to the panels on the front it is then, it wasn’t doing much for me either.

So the biggest challenge then is how to improve the steering geometry. These wheels are a pain to mount, I looked though lots of past official models and couldn’t find a solution. But thanks @Thirdwigg I think you might have a workable solution there.

Then I’ll take another look at the lights and the smoother curved panel to make the front look better.

But all this may have to wait till next week. The Yellow project calls 😎

So after a bit of build time this weekend I think I’m finished.

I had to redo the steering as I realised it clashed with the mech for the bucket raise/lower, and as people asked I managed to swap the curved panel for the one with less holes.

Excuse the Falcon in the corner of this image.

Just need to update my stud.io file now.

Edited July 5, 20213 yr by Seasider
No idea about the random font size!

Looks really nice 

Looks really good. I would try to get rid of the blue pins sticking out though - for 3L pins you could just get black ones, but for 2L axle-pins like the front edge of the roof you'd have to go for red 3L pins with pin hole in the middle and connect them with 2L pin connectors.

So I’m all done … spent a bit of odd evening time doing what I thought would be an easy mod to the chassis of raising the bucket lift by 1 stud and making the axles/gears a lot simpler for it. Turns out I completely redid the front half of the chassis. @SaperPL I’ve decided to keep the blue and red pins. I could swap these out for black counterparts but I wanted this to look like a model TLG would release now.

Chassis update

old chassis for bucket lift and steering (lots of gears!)

New chassis with the bucket lift one stud higher (as per original model) which gives a cleaner mechanism for both it and the steering. (Note the red connectors here got replaced by the 2hole 1axle version)

The finished model …

and compared to the original …

so bucket and tipper bed now operated by gears on the side so the interior has seats and a fake steering wheel. HOG steering now on top of the roof instead of hidden underneath. Front and rear PTOs like the original but using the CV joint parts as they look more like a real PTO.

Entry will hopefully be submitted on Sunday.

enjoy :)