Connect lego motor(s) to wall-socket?

[h3ctic]

Is there a way to bypass the batterypacks and hook up one ...or ideally several motors to "a thing" that is powered from a wall-socket?? (Im from Norway so we got 230V - Schuko-standard)

Is this "thing" something that can be bought at Bricklinks or...?? 

[1963maniac]

If it is power functions, you can get an old 9V train controller. Then use an extra PF wire on the train controller to convert it to PF.

[dr_spock]

LEGO motors can be powered by a standard AC to 9V DC wall power supply.

You would need to make some adapters to attach to the connectors on the LEGO motors.  The Powered UP connectors use pin 1&2 for the motor.   PowerFunction uses the C1/C2 pins on the connector for motor.

[h3ctic]

Im sorry...makes no sense to me......someone should make a detailed youtube video....name it right and get millions of views :D

Edited February 11, 2022 by h3ctic

[dr_spock]

Here's one way to connect a LEGO motor to an AC wall outlet without cutting any expensive LEGO wires.

[Toastie]

19 hours ago, 1963maniac said:

If it is power functions, you can get an old 9V train controller. Then use an extra PF wire on the train controller to convert it to PF

@h3ctic I mean, this is the perfect all LEGO solution, @1963maniac is suggesting. Or you take the DIY route @dr_spock is suggesting.

With the 9V train controller, you can - well - set the output voltage and thus the rpm of the motor. With just the fixed voltage power supply, you can bang the motor on/off. 

All you need is:

• one of these: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2868b&name=Electric, Train Speed Regulator 9V&category=[Electric, Train]#T=S&O={"iconly":0} they start at less than 10€ used,
• A wall wart type power supply putting out >9 V AC or DC - I would not exceed 18 V, I'd say less than 10€ new to feed the 9V regulator,
• and then it depends: What type of motor? 9V? PF? PoweredUp?

Best,
Thorsten

 

Edited February 11, 2022 by Toastie

[h3ctic]

Ok, thanks everyone. Im in IT so I have probably 50 power-supply in a box in my server-room. I will do some experimenting some day I find the time :)

What if I use a PSU generating 18 V and power two motors...would that work?

Thanks again for your replies! :)

[Toastie]

27 minutes ago, h3ctic said:

What if I use a PSU generating 18 V and power two motors...would that work?

In principle maybe, in reality no. The motors need to be in series (as they are "9V" types). And then different torque on each motor will lead to unpredictable behavior. You want to go parallel (with a 9V supply) and then make your supply strong enough to always provide enough current.

Best,
Thorsten

Edited February 11, 2022 by Toastie

[h3ctic]

On 2/11/2022 at 9:35 PM, Toastie said:

@h3ctic I mean, this is the perfect all LEGO solution, @1963maniac is suggesting. Or you take the DIY route @dr_spock is suggesting.

With the 9V train controller, you can - well - set the output voltage and thus the rpm of the motor. With just the fixed voltage power supply, you can bang the motor on/off. 

All you need is:

• one of these: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2868b&name=Electric, Train Speed Regulator 9V&category=[Electric, Train]#T=S&O={"iconly":0} they start at less than 10€ used,
• A wall wart type power supply putting out >9 V AC or DC - I would not exceed 18 V, I'd say less than 10€ new to feed the 9V regulator,
• and then it depends: What type of motor? 9V? PF? PoweredUp?

Best,
Thorsten

 

Ok, I bought the Electric Train Speed Regulator and a power supply for it.

The PF motors dont hook up to it though ....now what?

(sorry for being such a noob) :D -and thanks all of you for your help! :)

[1963maniac]

For the 9V train power supply, you just need a PF extension wire (extra wire mentioned above).The PF extension wire can plug into the train controller and connect to PF wires.

 

Edited March 4, 2022 by 1963maniac

[h3ctic]

YES! Works perfectly! Thank you :)

[DJ MotorBall]

I bought some 9v and 5v power function on one end and usb on the other, from AliExpress.  Seemed to work great

[CP5670]

The 9V speed regulator works but the current limiter on it gets tripped easily if you run multiple motors off it at once. I've stopped using it and instead use the BuWizz controller.

[1963maniac]

19 hours ago, CP5670 said:

The 9V speed regulator works but the current limiter on it gets tripped easily if you run multiple motors off it at once. I've stopped using it and instead use the BuWizz controller.

Can you tell us more about the Buwizz unit? How does the Buwizz work all day? Will the battery really last that long?

Edited March 26, 2022 by 1963maniac

[CP5670]

There is a big thread about it here:

I only use it for short periods but the battery seems to last a long time. I don't think I have charged it in at least a month.

[Toastie]

On 2/11/2022 at 12:24 AM, h3ctic said:

Is there a way to bypass the batterypacks and hook up one ...or ideally several motors to "a thing" that is powered from a wall-socket??

Maybe we should get more input from @h3ctic before suggesting more solutions. A current BuWizz 3.0 brick clocks in at €199 (4 PoweredUp outlets, 2 PF), the BuWizz 2.0 at €149 (4 PF outlets) both +VAT in the EU. What you get is a lot of powerful features in addition to power.

However, you also get 20 or 15 of these train controllers for the same amount of money.

The questions are:

1. How many motors are you planning on running at the same time?
2. Is battery operation an option at all? A BuWizz has to be recharged - some drain the LiPos inside within 10 minutes doing crazy things. But do you want to do crazy things? Or rather normal but prolonged operation of motors? In other words, what are you planning to do with the motors?
3. High load with "many motors" on the BuWizz - you can simply calculate the time its battery will last - they have the capacity on their website and Philo (https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm) has the amperage of all LEGO motors on his website. For going to the limits, the BuWizz will crank out all juice within 10 minutes as said, when you are very easy on the load - for hours. Flowing current x time is the thing here; example: Drawing sustained 5A for 10 minutes (a race car in ludicrous mode on the track, fighting the challengers) is the same as 0.05 A for 1000 minutes = 16 hours (a light 9V train with no carriages)
4. I am not sure if the BuWizz can recharge on the fly (as TLG's 8878 LiPo can) and if, if it can recharge fast enough for any high load (> 1 A current operation). I really don't think so. LiPos can crank out insane amps for short periods without getting damaged (although they do age >much< faster), but recharging usually takes much longer.
5. Nothing is better for prolonged operation of motors for hours and hours than getting the juice from a wall socket. Never. However, that is for stationary operation only, of course.
6. The train controller does provide 1A sustained DC without any issues. Again: What is your plan?
7. If you want to go above 1A - do what @dr_spock does: Make suitable connectors (in his picture, you can see his 3D printed custom connectors - is that right @dr_spock?), and hook up a 20A 9V power supply to your motors. These start at $50 (= 4 for one BuWizz 3.0 = 80A) and you can run 80 motors at 1A [which is roughly the average amperage of a stalled (= worst case) LEGO motor, see Philo's page].

  When you tell us your plans - more answers are to come!

Best wishes,
Thorsten

Edited March 26, 2022 by Toastie

[CP5670]

I have had this setup around for many years, but haven't used it at all since I got a BuWizz. I soldered a broken 9V wire to that connector, which Radio Shack used to carry back in the day. It can run PF models (including the receivers) by passing it through a PF battery box as well.

 

Edited March 26, 2022 by CP5670

[Toastie]

9 minutes ago, CP5670 said:

It can run PF models (including the receivers) by passing it through a PF battery box as well.

Nice one!!!

And you could even take out the PF battery boxes, when you solder the two 9V wires to a PF terminal, not using C1/2 but VCC/GND for the receivers. @h3ctic would just use the 9V/PF extension cables on your setup, as he needs power for motors only (as it appears) and thus C1/2 will do.

However, this arrangement would run forever - the BuWizz would not. What did you do with this (very nice) setup? Short term operation only?

Best,
Thorsten 

[CP5670]

Yes, mostly short term use with Technic models and some old 9V light and sounds space models. It's much better than batteries or the LiPo box since it always gives a consistent 9V output. I also used it for powering motors and lights on stationary models at shows, but I find the BuWizz lasts for the duration of the show too.

[Toastie]

33 minutes ago, CP5670 said:

but I find the BuWizz lasts for the duration of the show too

See, and this is the thing! It all depends. What - how - how long - under what scenario.

That is why I was asking @h3ctic about his "scenario" - big word for: How and how long 

Of course, the BuWizz does it for you - otherwise you won't use it! And shows - I don't know anything about that. Just playing up here, in my attic.

I love this place. Thanks a lot for sharing your (very nice) "old setup" and what you do now!

All the best,
Thorsten

 

[jelockwood]

I am surprised no-one else has mentioned this yet.

You can buy a product called a 'battery eliminator'. This is an AC to DC transformer but rather than a standard one that might have a USB or mini jack connector, this type of product terminates in a dummy battery and includes one or more additional dummy batteries so as to be inserted in to the standard battery compartment. You could therefore buy one of these for use with a Lego battery case.

[Toastie]

6 hours ago, jelockwood said:

You could therefore buy one of these for use with a Lego battery case.

Yes. But a) for stationary operation only (no trains, cars) and b) for a considerable price tag, as far as I looked, at least when it comes to different battery sizes. The City PUp hub runs on AAA's, the remote as well, the Technic hubs etc. on AA's.

But these are nice; I made one using old AA's - only to find out that a spot of solder works as well. Not for the purists, though!

Best,
Thorsten

[CP5670]

I was wishing someone would make this type of product for years, but now they are common (can be found on Amazon in the US). I use them to power the specialized Lego controllers like the RCX, Code Pilot, etc.

There are also rechargeable li-ion batteries with a full 1.5V or 9V output, but they are a bit expensive. I have some of them anyway for other things (VR controllers) and sometimes use them in Lego models.

[dr_spock]

Dummy AA or AAA batteries are ok. Depending on the device's case, you may have to cut a notch or drill a hole for the wires to exit.

 

9V style Li-Ion batteries are great until one of the cells goes out of balance and bad.

 

[h3ctic]

wow...so much info here now :D

thanks everyone for your input.

I will be posting a new topic as to my current project...I am strugling to get it done..