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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Finally I have made my first video, hopefully the first of many.

I explain a good deal in the video but I left some things out like how many pieces are modified - can you spot all of them.

I know you cant wait to see the plane and tank in action, I cant wait to answer your questions.

The old buggy is the only official set I have together.

I like strong chain. I think same thing but I don't know where can use it but this is perfect.

  • Author

Thanks, the chain was originally made for my second attempt at a live gas engine (cam chain) still yet to test; to nice to melt.

I find the problem with the small Lego chain is that it does not run very smoothly but this might just be due to mine being old. 

That’s pretty hardcore! Interesting work pushig the limits of lego building, even if custom parts are used. I like that massive suspension and it’s articulation, nice work with the triangulated 4-link and the pushrod system. What pin do you use to mount the A-arms onto the ends of the links? Is that a 3L cut to 2L? Or are those just 1.5L pins?

Can you tell more about those motros? How come that such powerful motors can be packed into such a small housig? Though I always suspected that it could be done better than lego motors.

Though I like the way you use the planetray hubs, especially in the middle, I don’t quite get what is the purpose of speeding the drivetrain up and then slowing it down equally. It only seems to loose efficiency because of all the extra friction. Is it that the axles could not take the amount of torque? Have you tried it wihout the planetaries? Or is it that otherwise it would be hard to transfer the drive?

On the driveshaft, are the springs to prevent the axle end from slidig out of the frame? Doesn’t it work wihout them?

  • Author

The pins are 3l 2pin 1 axle with the axle cut off.

Without the extra reduction the diff gear would skip but mainly the cv joints would combust under the torque - these motors are monsters the axles after the planetary hubs are all twisted, and on my direct drive buggy they can shear axles directly. 

The motors are the best they retain the Lego case and internal planetary reduction but the motor itself has been replaced with a rare earth magnet hand wound super motor. These motors require buwizz 3.0 to even turn over and even it can only provide half of its rated current (2 motors on 1 hub causes overload protection) (although bad Lego wires are probably at their limit anyway).

Motors peak at over 20 watts from a buwizz 3.0 - Lego motors are about 1 watt. (much more power than rc motors even in a far smaller package)

I will show how they are made once I get some more motors - I only have 2 and switch them between MOCS. 

They should be enough for me to claim the first true flying Lego plane. 

And the cost of all this... £3.50 PER MOTOR Lego is such a scam lol 

The only difficult part is removing the gear from the old motor - to do this i had to use a lathe but should be possible with a hammer.

The springs just stop the axles from coming out due to the rpm

And yeh I do suck at aesthetics 

Edited by Aerolight
spring question

49 minutes ago, Aerolight said:

I will show how they are made once I get some more motors - I only have 2 and switch them between MOCS. 

Sweet! Whenever you get around to that, will you provide a link for folks looking to buy some?

  • Author

Defiantly but the place I got them from originally has closed due to import problems and it does require careful grinding down the center shaft, although apart from that and moving the gear from the old motor it is practically drag and drop (and soldering)!

Wow, just WOW! There were so many speechless moments for me when watching your video about this beast of a machine. During most of the video I wondered, what motors drive this beast because of its extra-loud sound. Then when I saw those assumed PF M motors, I was just "what the heck?". So special motors in a PF M case.

Have you ever tried to up-gear these for racing? That could be interesting. :grin:

I wouldn't have the guts to modify my pieces in that way, but if it helps and the result speaks for itself, Man, the performance of that thing is just insane. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Thanks for sharing it here.

Forgot to ask: Would you share how long these planetary hubs last for this machine?

Edited by johnnym
forgot something

  • Author

The problem is when you gear them up there is so much lateral force on the axle that is melts in seconds - really.

My buggy is direct drive and does 20kph (I would guess no GPS and its super hard to keep straight) but it can drift on tarmac lol.

In my plane they are geared up but use extra gears to help take the load (pics soon)

The planetary gears seem to be unworn so far; even those in the motors somehow. But the cv joints do have some erosion but it is only surface level and the truck has been driven for about 2 hours total. I think the planetary gears will only fail if dirt gets in them so avoid water and I used duck tape to cover the underside.

55 minutes ago, Aerolight said:

The planetary gears seem to be unworn so far; even those in the motors somehow. But the cv joints do have some erosion but it is only surface level and the truck has been driven for about 2 hours total. I think the planetary gears will only fail if dirt gets in them so avoid water and I used duck tape to cover the underside.

I've got some experience building Lego models with a brushed motor from a ~$100, fast, RC truck, and the planetary hubs have been a lifesaver for that! I'm not sure how it's power output compares to what you've got here, but they're the only way I've found to drop revs to the point where I don't melt parts, without melting parts within the reduction! I've only wrecked one hub so far, after many model, so I'm pretty happy with their durability!

  • 5 months later...
  • Author

Got back to this moc, proper large scale pick up body and much bigger tires 4" by 7" (twice the diamiter of normal balloon tires lol). After testing the axles can handle the extra force (with reposisioned links) but the steering needed a rebuild with twin racks. To take force away from the steering the pivot point will be in the middle of the tires, meening the axles have to get even longer - longer than most trucks themselves. Just need 3d filiment for the 3.8" rims.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Finished the axles and they come in at a whooping 47 studs wide (3/4 the length of the zetros) and with the wheels fitted 51 studs. The rims have finished printing and are so large that large balloon tires can fit inside them.

Just waiting on the other 2 tires to arrive, £35 for 2 but they are very claggy.  

Interesting, though I have a question. Why are you gearing up the motors with planetary hubs, only to gear them down again in the axles? Why not just use direct drive , or better still just place the motors inside the axles, thereby removing lots of complexity?

  • Author

Without the increase in speed the drive shaft cv would not be able to take the torque (direct drive caused me to lose one of the long cv joints already after a single motor pulse) , the ones in the front hubs can take more as they spend most of the time at 0 degrees. The real truck uses a chain drop box and I wanted to include a realistic driveline. I was going to replace the ball part of the cv with a brass ball I could machined slots into, but I cant find the ones I have lying around and my steel balls come from bearings and just wont cut well, but if the new wheels + body weight cause them to fail I will order some.

Ready to film once I get the tires, but they were listed as shadow stock so might have to wait for the heat death of the universe before they arrive.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Finished, with the tires it's by far my heaviest MOC and it dwarfs even my tank. 

Fitted air lockers that use a 3d printed selector fork, my cylinders are worn out from all my experiments and barely work but at current prices I don't care.

The body looks great, for me anyway, and mostly uses parts from the 911 gt3 so orange.

After fitting a the smaller track cog to the drop box the gearing is perfect - really did not think it would be that easy.

Easily climbs 50 degree slope while popping Wheeles but the 2 buwizz 3.0 do have trouble keeping up with the 2 modified m motors.

When filmed I will post in a separate topic as so much has changed, also fairly certain hat this is the world's biggest Lego Rc monster truck (perhaps the biggest truck period) and in the end it came to almost exactly 1/12 scale in body size and tire diameter (monstermax 2 although the tires are a little narrow) 

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