The last guide you will need to repair Lego Train 9v Connectors

[BatteryPoweredBricks]

I have seen many guides on replacing the wire for a Lego Train 9v connector but I've never been satisfied with them (at least the ones I've seen).  After searching (not necessarily actively) for almost 10 years I've finally found the best wire to use.  For these connectors I don't use a soldering iron at all, just a pair of wire cutters, 2mm and 2.5mm flat head and a small phillips head screw driver.  For added bonus points I even used the ferrite noise suppression choke.  I tend to ramble a bit but there is a lot of years of experience I'm trying to get out in these videos 

 

Replacement wire (BNTechGo) Be sure to select 24ga, available in various lengths and conductor number (2, 4 or 6 recommended)
US
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPT11QN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
UK
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Ribbon-Flexible-Parallel/dp/B07PPSKVNN/?th=1

Replacement wire (AliExpress) Be sure to select 24ga in 2, 4 or 6 pin configuration
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802536140546.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.75ff18022kEDJL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

 

Any constructive criticism is welcome, I'm still trying to find my footing when it comes to making YouTube content.  These videos are for the Lego community so your opinions are important to me.

UPDATE:  After a year and a half I've created an updated video for repairing wires.  It covers far more than just the train wires but each type of wire has a dedicated chapter.  I think it explains things a lot better and is more tightly edited.

 

The original video is still up which is the video below.

 

Edited August 26, 2024 by BatteryPoweredBricks

[Santob_au]

Brilliant! You're going to inspire me to try this on all my frayed 9V connectors. Just need to find the same wire type here in Australia.

[Toastie]

Wonderful!!!

This is really cool. The most difficult part is, as far as I am concerned, opening a 9V device without "breaking it" to the extent of not being able to reassemble them. So the clue is how to do this. Brute force always works - and then one may even figure out from the debris how it was holding in place.

I thus would be so nice to show how to open a 9V device, as you did. The rotation sensor for example is a rather delicate piece - I ruined one to see how it is clamped.

Videos showing the "opening" of 9V devices are of rather high value - maybe even for more folks than just me.

Thanks (a lot) for sharing!

Best,
Thorsten

[lego9vtrainfan]

Nice video, advice, and source for the wire. Thanks for sharing!

[BatteryPoweredBricks]

Thanks for all the kind words everyone , I was very happy to finally find a good solution and be able to share it with the AFOL community.

 

14 hours ago, Toastie said:

Wonderful!!!

This is really cool. The most difficult part is, as far as I am concerned, opening a 9V device without "breaking it" to the extent of not being able to reassemble them. So the clue is how to do this. Brute force always works - and then one may even figure out from the debris how it was holding in place.

I thus would be so nice to show how to open a 9V device, as you did. The rotation sensor for example is a rather delicate piece - I ruined one to see how it is clamped.

Videos showing the "opening" of 9V devices are of rather high value - maybe even for more folks than just me.

Thanks (a lot) for sharing!

Best,
Thorsten

I have a ton of sensors I could experiment on.  If I do end up doing a video on opening sensors I'll post it in my Mindstorms repair forum post.

 

[XG BC]

i dont even have 9v track connectors to begin with. i just wedge two wires between connected sections of track.

[dr_spock]

Nice work. Old computer ribbon cables are cheaper or free if you don't mind the grey colour.

 

[BatteryPoweredBricks]

15 minutes ago, dr_spock said:

Nice work. Old computer ribbon cables are cheaper or free if you don't mind the grey colour.

 

That's a good idea.  They do have black ribbon cables but that probably came about later, after IDE drives started using smaller 80 conductor wire.  I think I still have a black floppy cable that could work, I'll have to look.

[JWBDolphins]

Thanks for sharing!  I bought a used 9V system a few years back and those wires are starting to flake - this will be very useful!

And I'll second the BNTECHGO wire, the silicone insulation is very durable, flexible, and easy to work with.  I've used their 20 gauge wire to power third-party controls to run both PF and PU motors - works great!

 

[zephyr1934]

Amazing stuff! Thank you for sharing!

[Jeffinslaw]

Awesome! Thank you for sharing!

[BatteryPoweredBricks]

Update!

Not long after uploading these videos the price of the wire went down significantly!   The 50 foot rolls are now $30 which is what I paid for a 25 foot roll before.  Again you get three pairs so a 50ft roll nets you 150ft of 9v wire (although 50ft will have the gray markings on one side).  I ordered two 50ft rolls just in case the price changes again .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPSKVNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

[LedaniGO]

Thanks for the video. Now, I'm trying to fix my old 9V wires collection. I used this small base to make it easier and safer. It is a strong base made with lego bricks and some thin metal parts that hold the connector top part and let the bottom part go down when we hit it.

I used it 18 times. In 14 of then the result was perfect. In 4 of them, the bottom part broke in one side as you can see here:

I think it is possible to improve that by using some stuff below the connector, that don't allow for a very large angle when the bottom part goes out. But now I have no more connectors to try it!

[Rawrsdower]

So!
I tried to take my wire apart before finding this video and succeeded in snapping off pretty much every single tab in the track connector pieces. I've already ordered that replacement wire off Amazon but now I'm faced with a choice:

Is it safe to assume this wire will never have to be replaced and I can use a more permanent glue?
Or is there a glue Lego hobbyists recommend for this type of operation that can be pulled apart with force should I ever need to get back inside?

Edit: In another post I've seen someone interviewed LegoLand builders and they use Elmer's White Glue to join pieces. Model Cement has also been listed as an okay permanent solution if you're careful. But I'd suspected super glue was a no-go due to what CA does to ABS! (noticed some discoloration on some Chinese made tiered display stands I bought a few years back and glued together)

Edited June 14, 2024 by Rawrsdower
New Information

[BatteryPoweredBricks]

That's kind of the issue, when you snap the connector together is when you find out if you have a good connection.  I don't use glue often so I don't have a suggestion except for I wouldn't use something that would seal super quick in case you need to try again.

[graafderk]

I loved the tutorial and thanks to it I managed to open a connector without breaking it to have a look for myself.

Did anyone find a European alternative to the listed cable? With shipping and import taxes, the somewhat cost-effective solution becomes a very expensive solution unfortunately.

Edited August 19, 2024 by graafderk

[CastleRail]

6 hours ago, graafderk said:

I loved the tutorial and thanks to it I managed to open a connector without breaking it to have a look for myself.

Did anyone find a European alternative to the listed cable? With shipping and import taxes, the somewhat cost-effective solution becomes a very expensive solution unfortunately.

I went with the easy option and used Amazon ( Amazon ) for the same sourced on this continent. <£20. No doubt also available cheaper from electrical supply stores but couldn't find the energy to look.

[Toastie]

3 hours ago, CastleRail said:

for the same sourced on this continent.

Did the same - but to no avail. Well, the 24 ADW is one of the things, but the outer insuation diameter of one wire is the other. I am experimenting with 24 ADW, 1.5 mm diameter wires - not >that< good  - it works from time to time though. Just ordered 22 ADW (= thicker copper wires, as the blades seem not to make reliable contact with the 24 AW wire, at least on some of my older 9V terminals) AND 1.7 mm OD insulation; we'll see.

Best,
Thorsten 

[graafderk]

 

On 8/19/2024 at 8:24 PM, CastleRail said:

I went with the easy option and used Amazon ( Amazon ) for the same sourced on this continent. <£20. No doubt also available cheaper from electrical supply stores but couldn't find the energy to look.

By the time I get that shipped to NL it's a ~€40 role of wire,

On 8/19/2024 at 11:52 PM, Toastie said:

Did the same - but to no avail. Well, the 24 ADW is one of the things, but the outer insuation diameter of one wire is the other. I am experimenting with 24 ADW, 1.5 mm diameter wires - not >that< good  - it works from time to time though. Just ordered 22 ADW (= thicker copper wires, as the blades seem not to make reliable contact with the 24 AW wire, at least on some of my older 9V terminals) AND 1.7 mm OD insulation; we'll see.

Best,
Thorsten 

Please let me know how those experiments go!

 

[BatteryPoweredBricks]

In the description of the most recent tutorial there is a link to wire that works just as well from AliExpress.  I've used it for dozens of wires and found no noticeable difference.  The trade off is it takes a lot longer to arrive but is cheaper. I've also added a link that someone sent me for UK Amazon.  I'll add the links to this thread but the video may have more updated links in the future.  I talk to a lot of folks in different places about repairing wires and the video description is the first place I update.  If anyone has links for another country lmk and I'll gladly add them. 

Always glad to hear folks are getting their wires repaired!