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Posted (edited)

Hi all,

Here is a sneak peak of my 42145 MOD/replica.

Mods that I would like to include are:

2 buwizz 3.0 instead of dumb battery box.

Small spike prime angular motor for collective pitch and a simple mechanism for the rear blades to also have (MAYBE independant?) collective pitch.

Small spike prime motor for cyclic pitch.

C+ L motor for blade rotation/landing gear/winch/a 4th auxillary function

PU LEDS.

Suspention (just springs placed over axles).

Pivoting front wheel for basic steering.

Easily removable, or foldable blades.

640x1138.jpg

640x1138.jpg

For now everything is done in black as It is the only color I have the majority of the needed parts in.

Leave a reply wiith your thoughts, mods and anything else down below.

Update:06/07/2022:

I am now working on my own internals, because I realized that building the shell and then trying to put the internals in would be tricky and then I would also have to mod them.

So, the first thing I wanted to get working was the blade rotating, cyclic, and collective pitch. I sort of got it working but the turntable turned out to be un-nessecary and so the part that slides in the 3x3 round elbow pices prevented the cyclic pitch from working as it was too big. The collective pitch still worked as intended and I also made the blades easily removable for storage/display.

The long 15l axle that the original set has is gone because strongly mounting such a part and still getting it to rotate using gears is a nightmare and a waste of space. So instead, this assembly will sit as high up as possible.

So, Ill remove the turntable or the bit under the turntable so that does not obstruct the cyclic blade rotation.

Regards, Snipe

Edited by SNIPE
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Posted

Won't you need two motors for cyclic? If you're using a buwizz 3.0, could you use a buggy motor (or 2!) for the blade rotation? 

Posted (edited)
On 7/6/2022 at 1:08 PM, allanp said:

Won't you need two motors for cyclic? If you're using a buwizz 3.0, could you use a buggy motor (or 2!) for the blade rotation? 

Oh actually, yeah, luckily there's many port outputs left over

As much as I am tempted to add a buwizz motor for the propellor, it will take up soo much space and will mean sacrificing my other ideas such as the RC cyclic and RC collective pitch control

The 4th function might be an opening rear bay door like on the 42113 bell osprey helicopter.

Edited by SNIPE
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Another mod I'm working on is the removal of the blue bevel 20z gear.

uOV2Vuj.png

 

LnsmDTw.png

 

It can be seen from the outside, and its color interferes with the appearance of the helicopter. It can't be replaced with a bevel gear because the bevel gear collides with the slanting panel.

Hgwzuve.png

 

The sole function of the two 20z gears is to ensure that the two 16z gears and their axes (highlighted) rotate the same direction.

16wtZVX.png

 

One solution is add a row of 3 8z gears between the two axles, like how the 42113 gearbox was done. I'm not sure how feasible is that solution because it is show to put stress on the gears in the 42113. I'm trying to figuring out other solutions.

Edited by Ngoc Nguyen
Posted
11 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

One solution is add a row of 3 8z gears between the two axles, like how the 42113 gearbox was done. I'm not sure how feasible is that solution because it is show to put stress on the gears in the 42113. I'm trying to figuring out other solutions.

I already tried that, it orks just fine because I used the white 3L axle pin instead of a 3l axle which can slide out.

I even added a 4th clutch ring for an extra function and hooked itup to an PF XL motor.

Posted

These are the two solutions using standard techniques:

jsmNrPP.png

 

 

GuIt4aL.png

 

The one on the left uses 3 8z gears to invert the direction to the second row of clutch gears, while the right one use the toggle bracket with 3 12z half gears.

I feel like even though these are possible, they aren't used in the official set, so there must be some reasons. Maybe the solution with 20z gears is more stable under pressure. I'm trying to find a way to use the 20z gears but inside the 11L liftarms instead of outside.

 

59 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

I already tried that, it orks just fine because I used the white 3L axle pin instead of a 3l axle which can slide out.

I even added a 4th clutch ring for an extra function and hooked itup to an PF XL motor.

Good to know. Thanks for sharing!

Posted
2 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

These are the two solutions using standard techniques:

jsmNrPP.png

 

 

GuIt4aL.png

 

The one on the left uses 3 8z gears to invert the direction to the second row of clutch gears, while the right one use the toggle bracket with 3 12z half gears.

I feel like even though these are possible, they aren't used in the official set, so there must be some reasons. Maybe the solution with 20z gears is more stable under pressure. I'm trying to find a way to use the 20z gears but inside the 11L liftarms instead of outside.

 

Good to know. Thanks for sharing!

will you please share digital model? i would love to have enough time for this ;)

I'd try to build it from older parts with 4-rotor blades, as i'm mostly interested in the gearbox and avionics (and then compare it to my redefinition of 9396 helicopter model from 42082 https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-95253/klimax/helicopter-42082-rough-terrain-crane-c-model/#details)

will buy it later, once the price drops a little

 

\thanks

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, ace_klimax said:

will you please share digital model? i would love to have enough time for this ;)

I will after the instruction is released. I need the official instruction to make sure that I didnt build anything wrong or miss anything.

At the moment something is wrong with my Studio model and I can't figure out why.

Edited by Ngoc Nguyen
Posted (edited)

This is a concept of putting the two 20z gears inside.

b4sh3BR.png

 

A potential problem is that the 20z gear may collide with the driving ring on the left. I don't have a spare driving ring so I can't test. Can someone check?

Edited by Ngoc Nguyen
Posted (edited)
On 7/18/2022 at 2:22 PM, Ngoc Nguyen said:

This is a concept of putting the two 20z gears inside

A potential problem is that the 20z gear may collide with the driving ring on the left. I don't have a spare driving ring so I can't test. Can someone check?

I'm afraid that is does indeed rub against the clutch ring, However it does not rub against a clutch ring extension. A 16 tooth gear fits though.

There's also this trick which saves 0.5L space:

20220718-164301.jpg

Or try using the new 14 tooth gears as regular spur gears/bevel gear but without the 22 tooth couterpart.

Three 8 tooth gears like in 42113 is still more compact however

Regards, Snipe

Edited by SNIPE
Posted
On 7/17/2022 at 8:27 PM, Ngoc Nguyen said:

So this is my vow. All white parts will die.

*snip*

I'm gonna go stab myself in the eyes with a pen. I much prefer the white :grin:

Posted
1 hour ago, Bartybum said:

I'm gonna go stab myself in the eyes with a pen. I much prefer the white :grin:

Put it on the shelf for 2+ years and the white parts will turn yellow anyway :grin:

Posted
21 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Put it on the shelf for 2+ years and the white parts will turn yellow anyway :grin:

Bloody hell, touche. My space shuttle's already baking in the UV lol

Posted (edited)

Here is something I have wanted to do for a while, hide the axle that connects to the tail rotor.

Keeping the neon yellow color, while still also making the tail fin angled, was tricky.

I first thought I could just use a neon yellow 3x7 panel with an axle going thru it and attach some neon yellow system slopes to it, but the slopes were at too obtuse of an angle and they looked awful, and the 3x7 panel also is ugly on one side unlike the tapered panel..

So then I had a eureka moment and decided to use the tapered panel, but flip it vertically 180 degrees, rotate it a bit and then hide the axle within an extension of it that is made out of a very limited availablility of technic parts in neon yellow.

640x784.png

I have yet to build it as well as build the set but this could work.

If I replace the 5L liftarm from the top with a 3L and 2L liftarm then the tail fin will also be able to pivot side to side, though the real helicopter does not do that.

Edited by SNIPE
Posted

Anyone had any luck coming up with ideas on how to reduce the height?

I guess one of the biggest issues is that as far as I'm aware Lego doesn't make those ball links any shorter than 6...

I know this is heresy but I did do some digging and found that someone posted a model of one on thingiverse that you could print...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236932

It seems that another option might be to reduce the mechanical complexity of the cyclic/collective mechanisms.  Perhaps even removing one or both of the functions...

Posted
2 hours ago, blbills said:

Anyone had any luck coming up with ideas on how to reduce the height?

A quick and dirty way is to just leave out the liftarms of the top level.

j8qfWAd.png

 

ZQDuXRZ.png

Posted
39 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

A quick and dirty way is to just leave out the liftarms of the top level.

I also wanted to reduce the height, so I'm gonna try replacing the 6L links with the "3L link with pinhole and ball joint" (6571) which is actually a steering hub.

Posted
12 hours ago, SNIPE said:

I also wanted to reduce the height, so I'm gonna try replacing the 6L links with the "3L link with pinhole and ball joint" (6571) which is actually a steering hub.

Very interesting!  Didn't know that part existed.  Wonder if you'll have enough clearance for those extra "ball joints" x5.  Please keep us posted!

Posted
15 hours ago, SNIPE said:

I also wanted to reduce the height, so I'm gonna try replacing the 6L links with the "3L link with pinhole and ball joint" (6571) which is actually a steering hub.

That is a genius idea, and probably the best purist solution I've seen for making the helicopter more to scale. Hope to see some results as this is a mod I'm highly interested in.

_ED_

Posted
On 7/23/2022 at 4:25 AM, SNIPE said:

3L link with pinhole and ball joint

Yup.  Good idea.  Just reading this.  Keep us posted.  If it does not work I am thinking about looking on shapeways or something for a printed solution.  Or something similar to what @blbills posted...

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