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Posted
What a pleasure to see that the metal wheel hubs from MTP are finally online! For the occasion, I also placed a small order with them!
 
Screenshot_20241101_105002_Outlook.jpg
Screenshot_20241101_105017_Outlook.jpg
Screenshot_20241101_105030_Outlook.jpg
 
 
I also went through ZENE's shop; I ordered his brushless motor and 2 high-performance differentials !
 
Can’t wait to receive all of this.
Posted

Meh, seems the MTP Wheelhubs won't have the u-joint positioned exactly in line with the pinholes, as suspected before..

Picture is with one of their shorter u-joints which is sitting on the inner metal part, but still too high.. :(

800x912.jpg

Posted
On 11/1/2024 at 10:37 AM, vergogneless said:
What a pleasure to see that the metal wheel hubs from MTP are finally online! For the occasion, I also placed a small order with them!
 

Yeah, only a small order :p. Oh my goodness you got so much! What will you use it for?

Posted
13 hours ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

Meh, seems the MTP Wheelhubs won't have the u-joint positioned exactly in line with the pinholes, as suspected before..

Picture is with one of their shorter u-joints which is sitting on the inner metal part, but still too high.. :(

800x912.jpg

Actually that does not look as bad as I expected :) If you turn the U-joint 90 degrees can it still pass without tuching? That's the bottleneck I guess

Posted
15 hours ago, bruh said:

Yeah, only a small order :p. Oh my goodness you got so much! What will you use it for?

To keep it brief, my goal is extreme miniaturization using brushless motors and all the necessary equipment to support them. I’ll never go below 1/24 scale and aim to reach as close as possible to 1/26 or even 1/28 scale (with a wheelbase between 9 and 16 cm max). Currently, with plastic and a few ball bearings, I’m achieving controlled speeds of around 40 km/h, but I hope that metal parts will provide true stability (especially in the steering) to reach 60-70 km/h with these mini models.

Everything I’ve purchased will allow me to “lock down” as many areas as possible on the model to prevent play (in the steering and motor mount), and use as few parts as possible to avoid extra thickness. This will also let me focus more on design and aesthetics, which are my biggest challenges right now. It’s tough to combine small scales, durability, light weight, and design, especially with such high speed and usage requirements.

I’ll be sharing updates on my progress as usual. We’re taking it to the next level!

 

14 hours ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

@vergogneless I am happy your order exceeded mine in price, that helps me for still considering my addiction as mild... 😂👌

:pir_laugh2: And I added a few parts before my order was shipped, just to make sure I didn’t miss anything :pir-triumph:

Screenshot_20241108_225703_Outlook.jpg

Posted

Wow. Seems like you are familiar with brushless motors. What will you use to control it, power, and code them?

Posted (edited)

@aFrInaTi0n not exactly, I meant the same angle as the first photo just the wheel (axle) turned 90 degrees (as if the wheel was spinning) so that the other edge of the joint gets close to the pinhole.

Edited by gyenesvi
Posted
On 11/9/2024 at 10:04 PM, aFrInaTi0n said:

here you go

That's it thanks! It looks good on the right side of the image, and the angle also looks good enough. I'm a little worried that on the left side the edge would touch at some angle, but can image also that it just clears, have you checked that?

Posted

it is basically the position where it rests on one of the sides (took the picture the other day, forget if it really hit left or on the right side... but basically this is the max angle already..

Posted (edited)
On 11/9/2024 at 10:47 PM, bruh said:

Wow. Seems like you are familiar with brushless motors. What will you use to control it, power, and code them?

Usually, the motors come in a pack with an ESC (Electronic Speed Controller), but it is also needed a receiver/ transmitter (remote pack).

For power, usually LiPo batteries are used, but there are also other technologies. Moreover it depends on the needs of the motor setup to determine the battery cell count (and thus the voltage), but one cell (noted 1s) should have at least 3.7V when discharged and 4.2V when fully charged.

Lastly, there is usually no need to program anything, but there are some motor setups that can have several settings and come with a ”programing card”, but you just select some values/ setting there, so yeah...........no programming needed.

Edited by Lixander
Posted
4 hours ago, Lixander said:

one cell (noted 1s) should have at least 3.7V when discharged and 4.2V when fully charged

Slight correction, discardged is mostly around 3.2-3.4V depending on how low you want to got(should not go below 3.2V). 3.7V is commonly used as a storage voltage as it's neither full nor empty.

Posted
3 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

Slight correction, discardged is mostly around 3.2-3.4V depending on how low you want to got(should not go below 3.2V). 3.7V is commonly used as a storage voltage as it's neither full nor empty.

Thanks for the addition ;)

Posted

I just got back from my week away for work and found all the parts I ordered from MTP and Zene waiting for me. I think I’ve got everything I need—a new chapter is about to begin!

Whether it’s from one seller or the other, the design quality is flawless, and the packaging is really professional—I’m quite impressed.

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Posted

@vergogneless Nice order, have fun :) 2 advices..some locktite for the 2L 3L metal pin replacements can be usefull if you don't want the screw to get loose without having it screw in to much.
2nd..the 8t gears are from stainless steel, which is harder than the aluminium (12t, 24t and so on) so it might erode the aluminium gears(especially without lube). That actually happend when i used an 8t/24t downgearing. Fine aluminum dust everywhere.

Posted
9 hours ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

haha, n1 - enjoy

Thanks :pir-classic:

8 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@vergogneless Nice order, have fun :) 2 advices..some locktite for the 2L 3L metal pin replacements can be usefull if you don't want the screw to get loose without having it screw in to much.
2nd..the 8t gears are from stainless steel, which is harder than the aluminium (12t, 24t and so on) so it might erode the aluminium gears(especially without lube). That actually happend when i used an 8t/24t downgearing. Fine aluminum dust everywhere.

Hey, thanks for the tips and tricks! Do you apply the small drop of glue on the threading before inserting the screw, or on the screw head after tightening? Also, what type of lube do you use?

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