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Posted

Yes, that will sure make it.

Once you are done with the water evaporation, aircraft as well as ground based vehicles will be well in range at 2.4 GHz, with far less power requirements though.

Best,
Thorsten 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 2/10/2023 at 11:13 PM, 2GodBDGlory said:

Is that actual RC different than the 2.4 GHz system?

If 2.4GHz is all one needs, it's probably simpler and not much more expensive to buy generic Lego-clone PF remotes and receivers from Aliexpress, because those, unlike the original IR Lego ones, use 2.4 GHz, making for much better range, not dependent on lines of sight.

Indeed 2,4Ghz is good but Aliexpress device is not really my dream thing because it would throw me back to batteryboxes and receiver (old optic and more space needed compared to minimalistic buwizz, with more power/volt). And don't forget with the old PF/Aliexpress design you only get the "all or nothing" remote (or the weird one for trains). Haptic feedback yes, but far from ideal.

About the other fun discussion you guys started :-) I have no idea what frequency this rather cheap toy submarine is using (and I am not even that much interested to go underwater) - I am just dreaming of some radio remote/receiver/battery combo where I just connect my lego motors, no extra work needed. 

Obviously people have thought about this, but all the ideas I found were DIY circuits, where I lack programming and soldering skills to. E.g. https://www.eetimes.com/diy-lego-upgrade-to-2-4-ghz/ I really need something "idiot-proof" :-)

 

 

Edited by wower
Posted
15 minutes ago, wower said:

Indeed 2,4Ghz is good but Aliexpress device is not really my dream thing because it would throw me back to batteryboxes and receiver (old optic and more space needed compared to minimalistic buwizz, with more power/volt). And don't forget with the old PF/Aliexpress design you only get the "all or nothing" remote (or the weird one for trains). Haptic feedback yes, but far from ideal.

Have you looked into the CADA and MouldKing boxes? (I think they're ok to talk about in this thread?)

I'm almost certain they're also 2.4GHz, and are plug and play. The CADA one has the pros of being from a (more) reputable brand, and its "white-top" battery has fairly high current limits, though it (like all Chinese boxes) only has the standard 7.4V. The MouldKing one, on the other hand, has the awesome advantage of proportional control, and the possibility for either 4 or 6 ports depending on which box you buy. I've been very satisfied with my MouldKing 6.0 box so far, with four channels of proportional control via joysticks, and two channels of basic control from bumpers.

Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Have you looked into the CADA and MouldKing boxes? (I think they're ok to talk about in this thread?)

I'm almost certain they're also 2.4GHz, and are plug and play. The CADA one has the pros of being from a (more) reputable brand, and its "white-top" battery has fairly high current limits, though it (like all Chinese boxes) only has the standard 7.4V. The MouldKing one, on the other hand, has the awesome advantage of proportional control, and the possibility for either 4 or 6 ports depending on which box you buy. I've been very satisfied with my MouldKing 6.0 box so far, with four channels of proportional control via joysticks, and two channels of basic control from bumpers.

I've tested both yes. Cada is useless with "all or nothing" remote. MK is my best option at the moment, but has less power compared to Buwizz and very limited options (e.g. not possible with 6 port receiver to steer two outputs with one remote lever - we discussed that in another thread here). And I thought MK was bluetooth? Is it 2,4ghz radio?

PS: Just found another DIY, discussed even here in this forum. 

 

Amazing, but again, I can't replicate that.. neither the skills nor the time :-(

 

Edited by wower
Posted
1 minute ago, wower said:

I've tested both yes. Cada is useless with "all or nothing" remote. MK is my best option at the moment, but has less power compared to Buwizz and very limited options (e.g. not possible with 6 port receiver to steer two outputs with one remote lever - we discussed that in another thread here). And I thought MK was bluetooth? Is it 2,4ghz radio?

 

Yeah, there's definite downsides to all the options. I'm also waiting for a legitimate proportional control/physical remote/11.1V Buwizz competitor, but I guess it's just not there yet.

You might be right that it's Bluetooth; after all, you can also run it from a phone app, and I don't suppose my phone has a radio output?

Spoiler

Unrelated, but:

If it did, it would be awesome to hack to add wireless audio to older cars, kind of like the Bluetooth-to-FM radio adapters you can buy for cars

Does Bluetooth have downsides compared to radio for RC cars? It's seemed to work fine for me

Posted

I had thought radio was better range, less latency. And (what I know from my gopro remote), bluetooth doesn't work underwater. I had thought radio would (but as discussed above, that seems to be a frequency-related science on its own).

Posted
1 minute ago, wower said:

I had thought radio was better range, less latency. And (what I know from my gopro remote), bluetooth doesn't work underwater. I had thought radio would (but as discussed above, that seems to be a frequency-related science on its own).

Ok, that might be true

Posted
On 2/12/2023 at 5:58 PM, 2GodBDGlory said:

The CADA one has the pros of being from a (more) reputable brand, and its "white-top" battery has fairly high current limits, though it (like all Chinese boxes) only has the standard 7.4V

Has anyone successfully opened these up & replaced the battery with a 3S 11.1V Lipo? That would keep the interface & controller relationship, but boost the power from inside. The 4-port box is quite small & there are only a few 3S Lipo cells I've seen that could possibly fit. I'm not sure about the connection point though (JST, Balance Ports etc).

Posted
2 hours ago, P McCatty said:

Has anyone successfully opened these up & replaced the battery with a 3S 11.1V Lipo? That would keep the interface & controller relationship, but boost the power from inside. The 4-port box is quite small & there are only a few 3S Lipo cells I've seen that could possibly fit. I'm not sure about the connection point though (JST, Balance Ports etc).

I did some research into whether that would be possible with MouldKing boxes a while back, and it sounded like 9-10V was roughly the max voltage they could safely handle, ruling out a 3S system unless one added some other kind of voltage controller.

Cada could be different though, I don't know.

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