Technic Parts We Would Find Useful

[Davidz90]

2 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

How would you use that, what would it mesh with?

It would easily mesh with other spur gears. Most importantly, it would result in easy 1:4 reduction with 8t gear.

An example of custom 3D printed 32t gear:

 

[gyenesvi]

1 minute ago, SNIPE said:

1x8 thin beam, 1x1 thin beam, 3x4 thin beam

Good ideas, and this should become a systematic family as well. What I miss besides the 1x1 is the 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4. I never needed a 1x8 thin though, rather a full beam.

5 minutes ago, Davidz90 said:

It would easily mesh with other spur gears. Most importantly, it would result in easy 1:4 reduction with 8t gear.

An example of custom 3D printed 32t gear:

Indeed, that's a big missing piece. Thanks for the video! What distance would the mesh with the 8T require? Simply 3 studs? Or something more complicated?

[Davidz90]

32 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

What distance would the mesh with the 8T require? Simply 3 studs? Or something more complicated?

32+8=40 so it would need the same spacing as other combinations that sum up to 40, like 20+20.

[2GodBDGlory]

40 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Good ideas, and this should become a systematic family as well. What I miss besides the 1x1 is the 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4. I never needed a 1x8 thin though, rather a full beam.

Indeed, that's a big missing piece. Thanks for the video! What distance would the mesh with the 8T require? Simply 3 studs? Or something more complicated?

2.5 studs.

I think this is the #1 new part I want. Such a missing gap, that gives great whole number gear ratios like 1:2 and the currently unattainable (at least in one convenient stage) 1:4.

1 hour ago, zoo said:

I don't have a render of the part but I would like to see a part that merges a driving ring extension with a z=12 gear. But maybe that is just me unable to solve a gearbox design issue at the moment. :)

I cut, dried, and glued together one of those a while back. It would be quite nice, but I've never used mine simply because it's not real. :(

1 hour ago, gyenesvi said:

I think the new Ford GT will have either the narrower CV Male joint with the 2L axle (or 2.5L), or some variation of the U-joints. What I'd really like to see though is the ones of the new CV joint, as those are the ones tough enough for RC models.

For some reason, I suspect that a double-male CV joint part would be more fitting with Lego's current system, though those options are also perfectly workable.

[gyenesvi]

10 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

2.5 studs.

Thanks!

10 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

I cut, dried, and glued together one of those a while back. It would be quite nice, but I've never used mine simply because it's not real. :(

Haha, I understand that, I have printed 24T but never used it so far for similar reason :)

10 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

For some reason, I suspect that a double-male CV joint part would be more fitting with Lego's current system, though those options are also perfectly workable.

What do you mean by double-male? As far as I understand, the 'gender' refers to the end that you join together, not the end that's left off for connections. I assume you mean the two parts that both have axles?

[langko]

Having a full set of #1-6 connectors with the axles on the end.

If you think about it    are pretty much connectors #1/2/6 in this style. Having versions like 3/4/5 would definitely by helpful for more compact angled assemblies when space is an issue.

 but with both axles holes would have also be useful for me in quite a few situations. 

[msk6003]

Single bevel 28t

Double/single bevel 60t, 140t

Large size ring which has same size with large banana but looks like friends ring

Knob wheel which has more tooth than 4t

Worm gear shaped 2x2 round brick and crown gear shaped 4x4 round plate which can mesh with splat gears

catapiller tread link but no tread to make shape of heavy duty chain

Little softer version(same strength as old 9.5L hard yellow shock) of M1000RR/daytona's shock

Ring gear which has teeth both inside and outside

Modifited version of part 18942 lack gear but has connectivity on both end like large banana

Half stud thick gears(not bevel type)

5x5 size frame but has 24t ring gear inside

Transparent panel

Longer half stud thick liftarm

1x3 half stud thick liftarm but has axle hole only like cam without cam part

[Thirdwigg]

23 minutes ago, langko said:

Having a full set of #1-6 connectors with the axles on the end.

If you think about it    are pretty much connectors #1/2/6 in this style. Having versions like 3/4/5 would definitely by helpful for more compact angled assemblies when space is an issue.

Watching this thread with interest, but this is the first suggestion where I thought I would totally use that.

[gyenesvi]

29 minutes ago, langko said:

Having a full set of #1-6 connectors with the axles on the end.

 but with both axles holes would have also be useful for me in quite a few situations. 

Indeed, compact connectors are always useful :)

@msk6003, I'm not sure I understand all your proposals just by the description, some images would be useful. Also, many sound quite specialized.

19 minutes ago, msk6003 said:

Single bevel 28t

What fundamental problem would that solve?

19 minutes ago, msk6003 said:

Double/single bevel 60t, 140t

Sounds a bit too specialized, rarely required (would need a lot of space, could only fit in big builds).

19 minutes ago, msk6003 said:

Knob wheel which has more tooth than 4t

Would that even work? In what size? What would it solve?

19 minutes ago, msk6003 said:

Little softer version(same strength as old 9.5L hard yellow shock) of M1000RR/daytona's shock

How would it differ from existing 9.5L shocks then? Just one end?

19 minutes ago, msk6003 said:

Half stud thick gears(not bevel type)

That's interesting. Doesn't sound too solid though.

19 minutes ago, msk6003 said:

1x3 half stud thick liftarm but has axle hole only like cam without cam part

That could be useful!

13 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

Watching this thread with interest, but this is the first suggestion where I thought I would totally use that.

I guess you'd find some more useful ones as more connectors would come up that could support your small builds :)

[Thirdwigg]

3 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

I guess you'd find some more useful ones as more connectors would come up that could support your small builds :)

Very true. I have found recently that the new parts I get most excited about are the ones that are about 1-2 studs in length. 15100, 10197, and 22961 were all game changers for me.

[howitzer]

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Do you mean something like these? I've just ordered a few from webrick.com. I think they are without friction though, but I have not tried them yet. 

Yes, exactly. But yeah, I'd like them to have friction so they could be used to support parts (panels etc.) in set positions.

5 hours ago, astyanax said:

and but with axle hole. Especially the former!

A 2x2 liftarm with 4 pinholes. Like the holes on but without the teeth. Many diverse instances where I could've really really used that.

Second both of these. I've also needed these parts many times.

Oh, and 3x4 L-shaped liftarm.

Another nice one would be liftarm with two bends in opposing directions, sort of like 2 L-shaped liftarms fused together in Z-shape fashion (but with 90° corners of course).

[gyenesvi]

38 minutes ago, howitzer said:

Yes, exactly. But yeah, I'd like them to have friction so they could be used to support parts (panels etc.) in set positions.

I have checked the part I have ordered; the amount of friction is medium and varies (guess it's not top quality). Some feel like it was meant to be frictionless, some like with moderate friction. Would hold some small weight, but not much.

38 minutes ago, howitzer said:

Another nice one would be liftarm with two bends in opposing directions, sort of like 2 L-shaped liftarms fused together in Z-shape fashion (but with 90° corners of course).

A Z shape is also something I'd like, but instead of corners I was thinking more like  in a Z shape. But it would be good with 90 degree corners as well, not sure about the good length though. Something asymmetric is more versatile than a symmetric one..

[gyenesvi]

An update on joints: I forgot about two variants.

The new CV joint has a long male version with a sliding axle, and the hole is 3 studs deep, making the whole part 5 studs long. A shorter 4L version, with a 2 stud deep axle hole would also be enough and useful, as the long one cannot be used in more compact builds.

Furthermore, to make a 4L independent suspension possible, a 4L double ended male CV joint would be required. That cannot really be put together from two parts, as there is not enough space, parts might rub each other when articulated to the extreme.

@Zerobricks, I needed to modify the U-joints a bit to accommodate the axle stop properly so that it can go into a pinhole, which means shaving a bit more material off the edge. It is getting dangerously thin, might not be feasible in a solid way :(

[Zerobricks]

I see, there is simply not enough material to keep it together. I think in the end we are getting a 2 studded male CV axle like the second one on the photo, but with an additional stop on the axle bit somewhere.

[gyenesvi]

25 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

I see, there is simply not enough material to keep it together. I think in the end we are getting a 2 studded male CV axle like the second one on the photo, but with an additional stop on the axle bit somewhere.

I agree, I think that's the most probable one. The axle would be 1.5 studs long besides the stop part, which would be slightly shorter than half stud, as that's where the slope meets the axle naturally, so a full 2 studs of clean axle length is not possible, but would not really be useful anyway. The 1.5 studs of axle length is useful though as that can also slide completely inside the currently existing male part, making up a 4.5L double joint. Though another possibility is a 2.5L axle, with 2L clean part and almost 0.5L stop part, like the Cada one.

Edited January 12, 2023 by gyenesvi

[2GodBDGlory]

5 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

What do you mean by double-male? As far as I understand, the 'gender' refers to the end that you join together, not the end that's left off for connections. I assume you mean the two parts that both have axles?

Like the bottom one in that new image you posted

4 hours ago, langko said:

Having a full set of #1-6 connectors with the axles on the end.

If you think about it    are pretty much connectors #1/2/6 in this style. Having versions like 3/4/5 would definitely by helpful for more compact angled assemblies when space is an issue.

I was checking out that webricks website @gyenesvi has been mentioning, and it looks like GoBricks is making those exact parts!

[msk6003]

3 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

What fundamental problem would that solve?

Old 3L diff has single bevel 28t for drive. If this part come can make diff lock much simpler.

4 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Would that even work? In what size? What would it solve?

Knob wheel is very stronger than regular gear but current part you can make only 1:1 gear ratio. If knob wheel has more teeth it can use for heavy duty drivetrain.

4 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

How would it differ from existing 9.5L shocks then? Just one end?

9.5L hard shock is to rare in this time but very useful due to it's strength and length. I'm very happy TLG make alternative shock in M1000RR/daytona but it is to much hard.

[Zerobricks]

1 hour ago, gyenesvi said:

I agree, I think that's the most probable one. The axle would be 1.5 studs long besides the stop part, which would be slightly shorter than half stud, as that's where the slope meets the axle naturally, so a full 2 studs of clean axle length is not possible, but would not really be useful anyway. The 1.5 studs of axle length is useful though as that can also slide completely inside the currently existing male part, making up a 4.5L double joint. Though another possibility is a 2.5L axle, with 2L clean part and almost 0.5L stop part, like the Cada one.

If they make the joint with an 1,5 L axle instead of 2, it can be used for 5L and even 4L long suspension arms.

[DrJB]

Imagine these angle connectors  but with angles more than just multiples of 22.5

Having those would open the door to chemical models and more solids such as in the thread below.

 

Edited January 12, 2023 by DrJB

[1gor]

Since there is a big chance to get male CV joints that would enable eben more narrow driven and steered axle, I have another wish; this part but instead pf pin hole to have ball joint

[shroomzofdoom]

I made my own 24T clutch gears by cutting down a cheapo diff and sanding the side. It's actually harder to build a compact 3:1 transmission than I thought it would be. Which takes me to my next thought...

7x7 open center frames would be cool. 

As would a tow ball at the end of both- 3L friction pin and a 3L axle. 

Also, getting sick of making these. 

 

Edited January 12, 2023 by shroomzofdoom

[oracid]

Thank you for this very interesting topic.
To get into, here are my first proposals:
- thick beams of all lengths, from 1L to 50L.
- thin beams of all lengths, from 1L to 50L.
- pins from 1L to 6L, without any stopper.
- all pins, with friction, and without friction.

[Mikdun]

13 hours ago, SNIPE said:

1x1 thin beam

How it would be different from Technic Bush 1/2?

[kolbjha]

40 minutes ago, Mikdun said:

How it would be different from Technic Bush 1/2?

Pinhole instead of axle hole?

[gyenesvi]

8 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Like the bottom one in that new image you posted

In that case, I wonder why you said that it aligns better with the currently available other parts. I thinks it's usage is a bit more limited than the composable ones.

8 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

I was checking out that webricks website @gyenesvi has been mentioning, and it looks like GoBricks is making those exact parts!

I haven't seen those, thanks for the info!

7 hours ago, msk6003 said:

Old 3L diff has single bevel 28t for drive. If this part come can make diff lock much simpler.

Oh, I understand now what you meant by single, bevel, so it's a thin variant. Not sure I understand how that would be used and why it would make a diff lock simpler. Maybe an example build could explain that.

7 hours ago, msk6003 said:

Knob wheel is very stronger than regular gear but current part you can make only 1:1 gear ratio. If knob wheel has more teeth it can use for heavy duty drivetrain.

My problem with the knob gear is that the knobs are large (and that's their essence I guess) and so a gear with more knobs would need to be bigger, which becomes impractical, very space hungry. Maybe an 8 knob version would fit into a 5x5 space.

7 hours ago, msk6003 said:

9.5L hard shock is to rare in this time but very useful due to it's strength and length. I'm very happy TLG make alternative shock in M1000RR/daytona but it is to much hard.

True, but at least they exist and can still be bought on the secondary market..

 

7 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

If they make the joint with an 1,5 L axle instead of 2, it can be used for 5L and even 4L long suspension arms.

I don't think that would work. On one hand, in case of a 5L, it would have only half stud of connection, which is weak. In case of a 4L, as you'd join the current male part with the 1.5L axle male part by sliding the axle all the way in, the edge of the current male part would get too close to the female part where the 1.5 axle male part needs to connect (when articulated beyond 20 degrees). Let me know if it's clear what I'm trying to say.

 

6 hours ago, DrJB said:

but with angles more than just multiples of 22.5

While I agree that it would be nice to have, I believe that's a bit unreasonable to expect, and would be hard to differentiate between the various angle. I think an alternate way to go is rather using two of connected by the recently introduced friction half pins. That results in a reasonable connection with adjustable angle. Have you tried something like that?

 

5 hours ago, 1gor said:

Since there is a big chance to get male CV joints that would enable eben more narrow driven and steered axle, I have another wish; this part but instead pf pin hole to have ball joint

YES! That's what I want too for the planetary hubs :) You mean towball socket, right?

 

2 hours ago, shroomzofdoom said:

I made my own 24T clutch gears by cutting down a cheapo diff and sanding the side.

That's a nice way of making them :)

2 hours ago, shroomzofdoom said:

It's actually harder to build a compact 3:1 transmission than I thought it would be.

Indeed, it's not trivial, but it can be done in a couple of ways, I have come up with 3 at least.

2 hours ago, shroomzofdoom said:

7x7 open center frames would be cool.

Indeed.

2 hours ago, shroomzofdoom said:

As would a tow ball at the end of both- 3L friction pin and a 3L axle. 

YES, that's a big one for me as well.

2 hours ago, shroomzofdoom said:

Also, getting sick of making these. 

Something similar could be built with the existing 28T bevel gear no? The gear ratio would be different though, as it meshes with a 12T gear instead.

 

2 hours ago, oracid said:

Thank you for this very interesting topic.

Glad you like it :)

2 hours ago, oracid said:

- thick beams of all lengths, from 1L to 50L.
- thin beams of all lengths, from 1L to 50L.

I agree with having all lengths up to a certain length, say 10, would be nice, but I think above 15L they become too flexible, not solid enough. And if you have to start strengthening them, basically you can work around the problem with existing parts.

2 hours ago, oracid said:

- pins from 1L to 6L, without any stopper.

Haha, that's nice, but I'd be happy with even any 4L pin :) But I agree that a 2L without a stopper would be very useful (with friction), and also the existing 3L with friction. How would you use a 1L? To join two half beams?

2 hours ago, oracid said:

- all pins, with friction, and without friction.

Yes, there are some missing ones in there, but many practical ones are covered. Which one do you miss more precisely?