Technic Parts We Would Find Useful

[Aurorasaurus]

28t clutch gears, to save us needing to use a differential and a driving ring. i designed and printed some, with good success, for a relatively small design time. only change id make is making the outer part smaller to reduce friction.

https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/miscellaneous

video of it working and 3d file available there

[shroomzofdoom]

Currently, I'm struggling to squeeze in a 24T clutch gear without enough real estate to do it.

I wish I had something like this, but in either 16T or 20T variant.

[Zerobricks]

1 hour ago, shroomzofdoom said:

Currently, I'm struggling to squeeze in a 24T clutch gear without enough real estate to do it.

I wish I had something like this, but in either 16T or 20T variant.

 

You can always use a clutch gear and a 43093/18651 axle pin.

[evank]

I wish they made a 2x2 brick (or plate) with a center pin hole. There's no such part. If you want to stack a 2x2 onto a pin (or to spin around an axle), you're out of luck. There are modified parts, and there are 4x2 versions, but no 2x2.

Edited November 15, 2023 by evank

[Toastie]

2 hours ago, evank said:

There are modified parts, and there are 4x2 versions, but no 2x2.

1. #15456 + sharp knife: One clean cut = 2x2 plate with hole . Nothing can go wrong here. Then wait for TLG hearing you ...
2. Get a 4.8 mm drill bit (they're cheap!) + 2x2 plate: Drill into the anti-stud on a drill press = perfect 2x2 plate with hole.

Not sure if these are considered Technic parts, but I cannot care less. 

Best,
Thorsten

Edited November 15, 2023 by Toastie

[dustblue]

Many of those parts are actually sold in Chinese market, with good quality. Brands including GoBricks, Cada, and some less famous ones, some in the photo I used a lot in my builds, very convenient.

 

Fun fact: 13L beam with two way holes is from Gobricks which I used from the beginning of my moc(I start play with lego in this June), which I thought was standard Lego parts, until one day I try to find it on bricklink...

 

Edited November 16, 2023 by dustblue

[gyenesvi]

9 hours ago, dustblue said:

Many of those parts are actually sold in Chinese market, with good quality. Brands including GoBricks, Cada, and some less famous ones, some in the photo I used a lot in my builds, very convenient.

Wow, that's a treasure mine :) I do have a few of these, but some of them are new to me! I like the half O frame, the Z beam, the 4L beam and that steering hub-like thing (what's that?) Where did you get these from exactly, do you have a link to some page? Or do they come from sets? I checked webrick.com that sells GoBricks stuff but did not find those (I did find some L shapes though).

9 hours ago, dustblue said:

13L beam with two way holes is from Gobricks

That's the only flip-flop beam length I am missing, and I would have needed it once.. Does GoBricks have a web page? I have not found a direct one, only some pages that sell some parts, but could not find these ones.

[dustblue]

1 hour ago, gyenesvi said:

Wow, that's a treasure mine :) I do have a few of these, but some of them are new to me! I like the half O frame, the Z beam, the 4L beam and that steering hub-like thing (what's that?) Where did you get these from exactly, do you have a link to some page? Or do they come from sets? I checked webrick.com that sells GoBricks stuff but did not find those (I did find some L shapes though).

That's the only flip-flop beam length I am missing, and I would have needed it once.. Does GoBricks have a web page? I have not found a direct one, only some pages that sell some parts, but could not find these ones.

I bought all these from www.taobao.com, that's the Chinese version of Amazon, only it's bigger, from many different sellers(took a lot time for me to find those, every seller sells thousands kinds of parts ). Now here is the bummer, you have to know Chinese to really use it, I don't think there is an English version of it(Ali express is one but I don't know if you can find those parts there, never used it). If your friend can read Chinese you can ask for help, or maybe some seller on Ali express can help you if you would buy a lot.

 

And if you do use taobao.com, you can use my photo to search the parts you need, very convenient:

 

Edited November 16, 2023 by dustblue

[mpj]

I find gobricks parts on aliexpress, but it's almost impossible to find these "special" parts because you don't know what code/number they are. Look very useful indeed!

[gyenesvi]

2 hours ago, dustblue said:

I bought all these from www.taobao.com, that's the Chinese version of Amazon, only it's bigger, from many different sellers(took a lot time for me to find those, every seller sells thousands kinds of parts ). Now here is the bummer, you have to know Chinese to really use it

Hmm, thanks for the info, that's a pity. I tried the image search, but nothing really came up. The site has other problems than the language, it does not even show the cursor / sometimes the text I type in the search field.. when I upload an image it does not give any feedback. It's hard to search for anything like that..

[howitzer]

I want that pin with axlehole so badly...

[dustblue]

On 11/16/2023 at 3:55 PM, dustblue said:

Many of those parts are actually sold in Chinese market, with good quality. Brands including GoBricks, Cada, and some less famous ones, some in the photo I used a lot in my builds, very convenient.

 

Fun fact: 13L beam with two way holes is from Gobricks which I used from the beginning of my moc(I start play with lego in this June), which I thought was standard Lego parts, until one day I try to find it on bricklink...

 

 

These above parts are from CADA and not sold separately in Chinese markets now, but you can buy set C61505 designed by @T Lego and get these parts, could be useful

 

Oh FYI you can also get these special parts from this set, if you don't have access to taobao.com this maybe the only way you get these parts. I've only opened no.1 of these bags, there are 7 more, so there might be more special parts in them.

 

For me I am using standard parts in the set building and keep special part for mocs. Because those are not sold separated yet.

Edited November 17, 2023 by dustblue

[howitzer]

4 hours ago, dustblue said:

What's the added value of the part in the middle as opposed to 11478?

[efferman]

6 minutes ago, howitzer said:

What's the added value of the part in the middle as opposed to 11478?

Cada made it in this way to avoid copyright infringements. In addition it makes connections possible which are usefull.

[howitzer]

29 minutes ago, efferman said:

Cada made it in this way to avoid copyright infringements. In addition it makes connections possible which are usefull.

I guess some weird angle connection could be possible with that but not with the normal 5L liftarm, but feels pretty niche. Not sure if 24T gear would be able to clear it but it's possible. Anyway, the copyright thing sounds like a reasonable explanation for the shape.

[dustblue]

1 hour ago, howitzer said:

I guess some weird angle connection could be possible with that but not with the normal 5L liftarm, but feels pretty niche. Not sure if 24T gear would be able to clear it but it's possible. Anyway, the copyright thing sounds like a reasonable explanation for the shape.

 

 

Yes for 8 T gear but partially yes for 24T, there is resistance for 24T.

Also another CADA part is curved :

 

 

video seems not working with eurobricks, you can click the photo and goto my photostream to watch the video

Edited November 17, 2023 by dustblue

[gyenesvi]

That's a neat idea to let the 8T gear pass! I also like those frames that come in two pieces and can be assembled in different combinations.

[evank]

On 11/15/2023 at 4:38 PM, Toastie said:

1. #15456 + sharp knife: One clean cut = 2x2 plate with hole . Nothing can go wrong here. Then wait for TLG hearing you ...
2. Get a 4.8 mm drill bit (they're cheap!) + 2x2 plate: Drill into the anti-stud on a drill press = perfect 2x2 plate with hole.

Not sure if these are considered Technic parts, but I cannot care less. 

Best,
Thorsten

I've already done these things. But the question was, what new Lego parts would we like to see. 

[Toastie]

20 hours ago, evank said:

I've already done these things

Why am I not surprised

Best, Thorsten

P.S.: Got hold of an (currently dysfunctional) Amstrad PCW 8512 - 1985. Guess what I am working on

[Thierry-GearsManiac]

On 11/15/2023 at 8:06 PM, evank said:

I wish they made a 2x2 brick (or plate) with a center pin hole. There's no such part. If you want to stack a 2x2 onto a pin (or to spin around an axle), you're out of luck. There are modified parts, and there are 4x2 versions, but no 2x2.

I just wonder how such a part can be used after inserting the pin, i.e. if there's still some room for attaching other parts on it without interfering with the end of the pin... perhaps cylindrical 1*1 bricks (3062a or 3062b) or conical ones (can't find the reference quickly) because they're narrower at their ends. Other possibilities ?

Extra possibilities would exist if the studs were hollow.

[Ryokeen]

Small range secureable balljoints would be nice.
Like the part 87082 but instead of the pinhole a ball. Currently 6L steering links could attach to that but you can secure the part with the ball from both sides preventing the steering link to pop out or off. That in combination with modified liftarms like the 5L steering arm(just with both ball cup ends open like the 6L link) or the 9L steering links would be nice for stuff like live axles or in general multi link mechanisms. Sure the range of movement is more limited but most of the time you don't need that much movement range anyways.

Edited November 20, 2023 by Ryokeen

[gyenesvi]

3 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

Small range secureable balljoints would be nice.
Like the part 87082 but instead of the pinhole a ball. Currently 6L steering links could attach to that but you can secure the part with the ball from both sides preventing the steering link to pop out or off. That in combination with modified liftarms like the 5L steering arm(just with both ball cup ends open like the 6L link) or the 9L steering links would be nice for stuff like live axles or in general multi link mechanisms. Sure the range of movement is more limited but most of the time you don't need that much movement range anyways.

That's an interesting idea I have considered before, because that's how realistic suspension joints are made. You mean something like this, right?

Note, that in order to work, the collar needs to be removed from one side, otherwise it is not possible to put the link onto the ball (only with a lot of force). However, not sure that such a pin concept would actually be allowed by lego standards.

Also, I don't see too much added value, or even not sure it would work. On one hand, the towball to link connection is usually quite strong, you can often pull the pin out by the link. So if it moves out of place, it is the pin part that disengages. But since we need to remove the collar on one end, then it can freely move into that direction, so it can still get displaced. Furthermore, if you want your link to be properly secured, you can always build something to block it from the other end of the towball, which needs essentially the same amount of space than securing this pin from the other end. So essentially you can achieve what you want already. I have used that blocker technique and it worked for me even on large scale suspension linkages.

[Zerobricks]

I think making one side with a cross-shape would solve the issue of putting things too deep.

[Ryokeen]

Well even back with the 8880 set the towball to link connection is always the weakest part. It works okish as long as the force is almost in the same plane as both towballs used in the link. Anything else pops them out quite easy, same with rotational forces.
I mean the easiest way to dissconnect a towball connection is pushing the link part up and rotating it out. That can even happen if you build something above the towball to "prevent" it as every part and connection got a bit of flex.

But for the purposed connection, parts have to break to come loose and i rather have a misaligned balljoint connection than a loose part :D
Also keep in mind that any connection made from both sides will be stronger than just a pin pushed in. I've had several 2l pins deformed and disconnecting from pulling on them, but never a 3L pin where something was pulling on the middle parts while both ends where connected.
 

4 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

I think making one side with a cross-shape would solve the issue of putting things too deep.

Yep that would work. And i've just tested it, a 6L link end can be moved quite easy over the collars of an axlepin, just wiggle a bit.

[Bensch55]

On 1/14/2023 at 11:17 AM, allanp said:

but some of my favourites are....

For the bearing, I have something that you might like https://tf-engineering.at/flangebearing/