Posted March 2, 20232 yr File of what I got so far using Studio: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qk0EPPXciaf6aNu-OgRaDYDenCtaLe6I/view?usp=share_link 1000 x 800 render on Imgur showing my attempt. The 2 sides face are just decorative and rotates with the front ring. I plan to have 2 more gears for the ring, one idler on top just to hold it up centered. And one on bottom connected to a motor. but the 10L axle holding the front center face is being chewed up by 2 gears. And I have yet to figure out how to make the center front face turn a bit when the outer ring does a full 360. Technic gearing wasn't my strong point. I have not settled on the scale of the clock tower yet, it would depend on the clock mechanism. I do not plan to have the whole thing move up like it does at the end of Day 3 when Link is about to do final battle with the kid. The rotating top with the light beam will probably be via separate motor as it's continuous while the main motor will be at intermittent (moves a few degrees, stop, repeat) Any idea on making this work or improving this?
March 2, 20232 yr Technic Axles aren’t the strongest things in torsion so if you’re having problems with a 10L I’d suggest you change to shorter axles and 2L or 3L connectors where you have gaps between liftarms/beams. You’ll often find this sort of usage in official models
March 2, 20232 yr Author Anything shorter and the front clock face will fall down. The axle is going through gears as seen in the picture: If I used smaller gears, then the ring wouldn't connect.
March 2, 20232 yr 17 minutes ago, Lego Otaku said: Anything shorter and the front clock face will fall down. The axle is going through gears as seen in the picture: If I used smaller gears, then the ring wouldn't connect. Is that axle supposed to be meshing with the gears? If not, it's going to lock up those 28T gears in that spacing
March 2, 20232 yr 2 hours ago, Lego Otaku said: Anything shorter and the front clock face will fall down. The axle is going through gears as seen in the picture: If I used smaller gears, then the ring wouldn't connect. This can't work if you want both axle and gear move individually.
March 2, 20232 yr Author 4 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said: Is that axle supposed to be meshing with the gears? If not, it's going to lock up those 28T gears in that spacing No it's not.
March 2, 20232 yr Why not just attach the ring rigidly to the axle and forget about the two 28t gears? 6 hours ago, Lego Otaku said: If I used smaller gears, then the ring wouldn't connect. Any technic gear will mesh with the ring gear, but the spacing needs to be correct. A simple case would be the 12t gear, which will work 1 unit closer to the ring gear than what you currently have.
March 3, 20232 yr 12 hours ago, aeh5040 said: Why not just attach the ring rigidly to the axle and forget about the two 28t gears? I guess the point is to have ring rotating independently from the center axle. Unfortunately, as others pointed out, it cannot work with 28T gears. The small ring meshes nicely with 12T gears, but needs at least 3 (and better 4) to really stay in place: 20230303_131251 by David_Z1, on Flickr
March 14, 20231 yr Author On 3/3/2023 at 7:16 AM, Davidz90 said: I guess the point is to have ring rotating independently from the center axle. Unfortunately, as others pointed out, it cannot work with 28T gears. The small ring meshes nicely with 12T gears, but needs at least 3 (and better 4) to really stay in place: 20230303_131251 by David_Z1, on Flickr Looks like I can work with that version. Time to redo my build from scratch. Thanks!!
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