On 8/2/2023 at 4:39 PM, Lixander said:

By the way @gyenesvi ; putting the steering rack perpendicular with the gear will work?

Hmm, I have no idea, I never tried this, but I'm afraid that it could skip easily when the wheel is stuck and it's hard to turn it.

Perhaps this combination of gear and gear rack can help you?

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Hmm, I have no idea, I never tried this, but I'm afraid that it could skip easily when the wheel is stuck and it's hard to turn it.

It behaves like if the steering rack is in a ”normal” position - there is no room for skipping and the rack is ”fully” connected to the gear.

56 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Perhaps this combination of gear and gear rack can help you?

It could. I would think a way to put this in the model. It would be helpful to have a 5L steering rack (which doesn`t exist)

Edited August 6, 20231 yr by Lixander

14 minutes ago, Lixander said:

 

It could. I would think a way to put this in the model. It would be helpful to have a 5L steering rack (which doesn`t exist)

Hm...this one is 3 studs long, is something possible in combination with 5L suspension arms and 6L links? It is just idea because I don't have this gear rack...or to make something like raising ball joint in gear rack with those parts (but then I assume you will have to reconstruct whole ftont part)

There is also this part which I don't have, so I don't know how strong it is.

1 hour ago, 1gor said:

Hm...this one is 3 studs long, is something possible in combination with 5L suspension arms and 6L links? It is just idea because I don't have this gear rack...or to make something like raising ball joint in gear rack with those parts (but then I assume you will have to reconstruct whole ftont part)

There is also this part which I don't have, so I don't know how strong it is.

It might be, but what 5L arms? 

Also, that part with the distanced CV ball joint looks pretty fragile :/

Edited August 6, 20231 yr by Lixander

5 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Also, that part with the distanced CV ball joint looks pretty fragile :/

It’s not fragile, I bought like 10 of them, pretty useful..

32 minutes ago, Lixander said:

It might be, but what 5L arms? 

Also, that part with the distanced CV ball joint looks pretty fragile :/

I thought this one.

1 hour ago, gyenesvi said:

It’s not fragile, I bought like 10 of them, pretty useful..

Oh, oke.

1 hour ago, 1gor said:

I thought this one.

Ok; I will see if I can integrate it in the model.

By the way - tomorrow I will take the chassis for some tests outside and I installed the electronics; I don`t have the pieces to make the first version of the body-work, that must be modified anyway, so for now, testing just the chassis is sufficient.

Edited August 6, 20231 yr by Lixander

It looks like you have huve amount if non Lego parts; and I wonder if is it correctly to make my iwn charger for Lego rechargible battery box...my old one doesn't show signs of life anymore

1 hour ago, 1gor said:

It looks like you have huve amount if non Lego parts; and I wonder if is it correctly to make my iwn charger for Lego rechargible battery box...my old one doesn't show signs of life anymore

Well, you can make the charger, if you know exactly what you are doing and have a little experience with soldering and electronics. You can also look for a normal charger with a DC connector (I think that this is the connector on the Lego 9V battery box) that has the same specs as the Lego one.

Also the wires are made at a local RC hobby shop,  because it was cheaper than buying soldering wire (and easier and faster too). The control and the battery-life is improved with ”normal” RC electronics (I did not change the motors though).

Edited August 6, 20231 yr by Lixander

14 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Well, you can make the charger, if you know exactly what you are doing and have a little experience with soldering and electronics. You can also look for a normal charger with a DC connector (I think that this is the connector on the Lego 9V battery box) that has the same specs as the Lego one.

Also the wires are made at a local RC hobby shop,  because it was cheaper than buying soldering wire (and easier and faster too). The control and the battery-life is improved with ”normal” RC electronics (I did not change the motors though).

It has 10V (which can be done from PC power supply combining 2 power connectors flr hard drive) and I have managed to find appropriate connector for it. Just have to find time one one sunny and dry day; not on typical english weather like today (and last few days)

30 minutes ago, 1gor said:

It has 10V (which can be done from PC power supply combining 2 power connectors flr hard drive) and I have managed to find appropriate connector for it. Just have to find time one one sunny and dry day; not on typical english weather like today (and last few days)

Ah, I see. Good luck then ;))

31 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Ah, I see. Good luck then ;))

Thank you

59 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Thank you

;)

I couldn`t not to think about the body-work, so I started to build all of it with what I have. I consolidated it (a little) and replaced several 3x13 curved panels. It looks too boxy and a little too flat (heh, maybe that is the reason I called it ”Flat baja”).

I had also problems with the suspension, being too sagged in the rear, but I found a solution for that; now, the wheel arches are too small for the suspension travel, especially in the back - partially good for me, meaning that the chassis has a great suspension.

Maybee something like that...

11 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Maybee something like that...

Nice livery 

The car............I like about 97% of all the buggies, truggies, baja or trophy trucks I see; what you sent is one of them.

Speaking of what I like, the Flat baja truck is not there for now. The chassis is awesome, but the body work is not really good-looking and it is not so solid.

Edited August 6, 20231 yr by Lixander

Perhaps some idea for bodywork you can see here

 

55 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Perhaps some idea for bodywork you can see here

 

Thanks!

Also, I tested yesterday the baja-truck - the model is too heavy for the motors, even if they don't have the cut-off security circuit (they are the faster AliExpress version), because the motors work when there is no load, but when model is put down, the motors barely move.

Edited August 8, 20231 yr by Lixander

I know only that Lego Powerfunctions L motors when coupled drive very well...

14 minutes ago, 1gor said:

I know only that Lego Powerfunctions L motors when coupled drive very well...

Well, not this one :/

I also tried now with the a XL motor - it is pretty much the same.

37 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Well, not this one :/

I also tried now with the a XL motor - it is pretty much the same.

Hm...did you put balast from Liebherr inside?

Nope 🥲

4 hours ago, Lixander said:

Also, I tested yesterday the baja-truck - the model is too heavy for the motors, even if they don't have the cut-off security circuit (they are the faster AliExpress version), because the motors work when there is no load, but when model is put down, the motors barely move.

Well, I warned you all the up-gearing will loose the torque needed.. Two L motors coupled, 1:1 ratio to the diff; that's the most these motors can handle for a model of this weight. Even Madoca's lightning buggy has a 1:1 ratio (though without diff), but that has really minimal weight.

Anyway, you could start from there, make the ratio 1:1 and see how it drives..

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Well, I warned you all the up-gearing will loose the torque needed.. Two L motors coupled, 1:1 ratio to the diff; that's the most these motors can handle for a model of this weight. Even Madoca's lightning buggy has a 1:1 ratio (though without diff), but that has really minimal weight.

Anyway, you could start from there, make the ratio 1:1 and see how it drives..

I see. Thanks for the idea!

P.S.: coupled the motors with the 1:1 ratio but I had to put a differential to keep the gear ratio of the motors - it works but I am still unsatisfied. I will switch back to the buggy motors which are more capable in my opinion.

Edited August 8, 20231 yr by Lixander

Still waiting for the motors, but I already made a buggy motor variant and it is quite simple (and probably more light) compared to the one with the Power Functions 2x L motors.

I also tried to directly run this with only 1x L motor (the same ”faster variant” from AliExpress; it doesn`t have the famous thermistor), only the gears that transmit the power from the motor to the axle of the wheels. It stalls anyway.

Today I connected, again, a Power Functions XL motor, but this time it was also ”direct drive” - no gears apart from those who transmit the power to the wheels. It runs ok, the average speed of the motor, just the gears are slipping under load.

Moreover, I consolidated the body-work again, especially the sides and the front-end of the roof. These are made only with the buggy motor variant, because I hope it will be more ”successful”  (that variant also has ”direct drive”); I made a render too, for visualizing the model and testing some render settings. .

 

  

Edited August 11, 20231 yr by Lixander