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Posted (edited)

Hi guys and gals,

as for now I chancelled my MOC of a Claas Torion, I looked through current and also older Claas models to use the lime green parts for :D

I found a model which instantly sparked my interest as I haven't seen this one ever before: the Claas Cougar 1400 self-propelled mower. Only 30 of these were built, so the chance is quite low to ever see one in real life, but the mechanic behind this machine is really fascinating as the 5 mowers span up to 14 meters in width. This model has been done before by @GuiliuG in 2010 with balloon tires and for its time with the available parts pretty well done, but a little to narrow for my taste and also functions cut down too much. So a new iteration is needed ;-)

Claas%20Cougar%201400_14.jpg

Claas%20Cougar%201400_22.jpg

Last model of my John Deere as was welcomed, but I really liked the WIP threads tp see progress and also have critical input by the community.

As it is an agricultural machine, tractor tires were the way to go, although I considered the dragster tires for short time. The small tractor tires seemed...  too small to implement the mechanic, leaving me with 2 choices:

107 x 44: Would mean a width of about 85 cm.... seemed way to instable for me and also meant a piece count of 2000+. Maybe all functions (drive, steer, mowing AND lowerering/raising, tipping, extending.... of the mower units) could be integrated, but would mean a hell of a machine again, which I think wouldn't be so much fun and is sometimes more of a burden... remember: The sweet spot for Lego Technic models is 1000 pieces :-P.

81 x 35: Width of 81 studs (65 cm): Fewer functions could be implemented, but maybe in a sturdier and less complex manner. Instead of the 4 functions of drive, steer, mowing and (combined in 1 function) lowing/raising of all mower units, I wanted to use the battery box and only make the latter 2 function with only manual steering and push-drive. I settled for these mid-size tires, which also felt better to do :-)

Starting with the geometry and chassis I realised instead of 2 motors, I could use a normal 2 gear gearbox with a selector switch, which will be actuated by the tilt of the cabin forwards/backwards. In forward/drive position, the lowering/raising function is activated, in backwards/mowing position, the mowers are moved. The black exhaust pipe will be the activation of the motor, which can be seen in the video below.

For now, I have the chassis finished and the main function of tipping of the outermost mowers are done. I dropped the extenders as there were getting too big of unstable. Through the small turntables, there will be another arm, which folds down via a push-rod, which is what I am working on right now. I will need many universal joints....

Here is a pic and a short video of the basic mechanism:

Chassis.png

 

Edited by Jundis
Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, jorgeopesi said:

I like rare tractors too :thumbup: .

Actually it is self-propelled mower...

@Jundis I suppose doesn't have enough space for drive?

Real one has huge ammount of hydraulic functions, so let's see what you plan to implement... I'm affraid thay for placing big battery box and make it stiff enough you would have to use 107 x 44 tires and make 1:17 scale model to fit @eric trax machinery lineup :grin:

Edited by 1gor
Posted
14 minutes ago, 1gor said:

I suppose doesn't have enough space for drive?

Real one has huge ammount of hydraulic functions, so let's see what you plan to implement... I'm affraid thay for placing big battery box and make it stiff enough you would have to use 107 x 44 tires and make 1:17 scale model to fit @eric trax machinery lineup :grin:

Would be very cramped and way less stable... also the motor would reach into the cabin, which I wanted to avoid :-/

Yeah, the real model has 4 cylinders for each of the main armes alone... I mean it would be possible as they can all be connected to the same valve, but the horror of arranging that much hoses... als it would destroy the look completely.

I don't like to use that much of system bricks like eric, although his models are very well built. I also don't care much about scale :-P

Posted

At least something usefull from Audi rims... I also like more compact models, but plan to keep all of them in the same scale; sometimes smaller models are much stiffer; only wonder where you will hide this huge battery box.

Posted
1 hour ago, 1gor said:

only wonder where you will hide this huge battery box.

exactly in this spot it is right now 😁

Posted (edited)

A very interesting machine you've picked. 

Looks like the axle with black simple fenders(hard to tell it's front or rear:grin:) are not swingable in your model, not sure if it can in the real machine. Currently I'm struggling building the front fenders on my tractor. Only have very limited space around the wheel hub...

Edited by falconluan
Posted
12 hours ago, Jundis said:

exactly in this spot it is right now 😁

Then I'm affraid that looking on side image and based on size of choosen tires, you should move battery box some 3 studs toward axle. You can use this image in sariels scaler based on tire size to make as correct proportions as possible.

Posted

Perhaps you could use PF rechargible battery box and (lets say) PF Large motor? It is just a guess; when I got rechargible battery box (and with upcoming 94.3 tires) I have solved my 7 years old dilemma.

Posted (edited)
On 1/12/2024 at 4:40 AM, falconluan said:

A very interesting machine you've picked. 

Looks like the axle with black simple fenders(hard to tell it's front or rear:grin:) are not swingable in your model, not sure if it can in the real machine. Currently I'm struggling building the front fenders on my tractor. Only have very limited space around the wheel hub...

Thanks :-)

I think such small fenders are a minor optical addition and would look weird and too bulky to replicate in lego. What model are you working on precisely (can't find it in your thread about it)?

I did movable fenders on my Fortschritt tractor, but build them onto undriven axles, so it was quite easy.

Edited by Jundis
Posted
On 1/12/2024 at 4:26 PM, 1gor said:

Perhaps you could use PF rechargible battery box and (lets say) PF Large motor?

Should be fairly easy to do, only the exhaust pipe as main power switch has to be made in a  different manner :-)

Posted
On 1/13/2024 at 8:09 PM, Jundis said:

Thanks :-)

I think such small fenders are a minor optical addition and would look weird and too bulky to replicate in lego. What model are you working on precisely (can't find it in your thread about it)?

I did movable fenders on my Fortschritt tractor, but build them onto undriven axles, so it was quite easy.

My topic is this one

I've managed to make an axle connection avail place at the wheel hub steering link connection point, it may not be ideal but it is the best I can do at the moment.

 

Posted

Made some progress and everything comes together nicely (pic below).

What grinds my gears is the steering, which is highlighted in yellow in the first pic. The yellow 2L connector above the turntable will go up to the rotating beacon onto the cabin, functioning as a steering knob.

Problem is: As there are 2 directions the cabin can face, either in "drive mode" OR in "function mode", the steering is reversed (left/right). There are some solution, but not one is fully satisfying for me:

1) Just live with it, a normal mind can adapt.
    + easiest way
    - annoying in "drive mode"

2) Make a complex mechanism to reverse the direction when turning the cabin
   + no need for additional knobs
   - very hard to do in given space
   - possibly high slack
   - uses all of the cabins interior

3) Add another steering knob at the back (above the other wheel axle)
   + easy to implement
   - hard to reach, while all the mowers are in upright position

4) Add another, maybe smaller steering knob on the cabin
   + rather easy to implement
   - takes up some space

Other options are highly welcomed :D

Turntable.png

Stage1.png

 

Posted (edited)

As I can see you have a lots of gears within steering system which automatically causes lot if skack. I had several issues with steering during mocing and at the end the best way is to follow old Bosch slogan " Einfach genial...genial einfach" which (as you know) means that simplest way is always the best way. After long time I have decided even for my 4 wheel steering models only one steering mode and make it with axle joiners, new stronger CV joints and only gears at gear racks.

I hope that this longer post could help you to nake decision. I don't know how your complete steering system looks like, but from first video posted, perhaps it would be better to put motor lower to enable steering shaft in place where white clutch gear is and blue 20tooth gear...

Edited by 1gor
  • 10 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

after nearly a year of not working on this MOC, I finally had the motivation to restart.

Short explanation:

I abandoned this MOC after finding out 3 major problems which weren't easy to solve:

- The older 24t clutch gear used for both functions were to weak to lift the center extenders

    --> redisign of the middle chassis and usage of the bigger clutch, but only for the extending function, not the blades

- as the track width is so narrow, I thought I could ditch the Ackermann geometry, but it really put tension on the wheels and the turning circle I wished to achieve wasn't managable

    --> complete redisign of the chassis

- heavy clicking of chain links due to slack

    --> using small 1/4 pins to push the chain onto the 16t gears and using small rollers (1L liftarms on frictionless pins)

 

After this setbacks and me losing motivation to redisign everything, life had some personal challanges for me during summer and autumn, but finally I got back on track and moved on :-)

Here is a WIP-video of the current status of the MOC, some colours will be changed soon. I left the clicking of the clutch in intentionally and didn't want to edit it out. Some interesting technical aspects:

For the accurate synchronization of the smaller and the medium LAs (small LA needs about 19.4, the medium LA about 26.7 rotations for full extension), I used a gear ration of 20 : 28 which works nice.

There are 15 universal joints and 250 chain links out of the 1500 parts in the model right now.

Now, there is only the cabin and hood part left to design. @jorgeopesi I appreciate you help as you are a specialist for this :D

@1gor You are right :-) I will go with the 3 option and built the cap with 2 steering knobs going in different directions, it seems to be the best and most playable solution.

@eric trax My model won't be as pretty as yours, but hopefully I will match the spirit and overall look of the cougar with technic panels :D

 

Edited by Jundis
Posted

Looks nice indeed; if my current project will succeed, then I coukd thibk about one CLAAS jaguar with some extensions...

1 minute ago, M_longer said:

Oooh, that switching functions with cab rotation is freaking awesome!

I second that :thumbup:

Posted

Very clean and impressive, this model gives me transformers vibes! As already said changing function with the cab rotating is real awesome and so cleanly worked away, you got yourself a fan!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/8/2024 at 11:40 AM, Jundis said:

@eric trax My model won't be as pretty as yours, but hopefully I will match the spirit and overall look of the cougar with technic panels :D

The mower's folding linkage system is wonderfully organized. This is exactly what I would use if I were building this model.

You are very modest but the current look of this model is no different from mine. Technic bricks can also give a very good look. Some of the scale elements are so small that if you want to build them to be durable there is no room for system bricks.

I am waiting for more news!

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