RC Deck - Performance Power Supply With Radio Control

[Lixander]

3 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

First part is correct, but the second isn't really. In this case these ports just have to be connected to receiver to make 2 and 4 channel work(or maybe you can connect it differently) but all the servos might be connected to receiver. Mainly RCDeck becoming an ESC

Ok, so the only way to put a Geekservo in the case of an external receiver is to connect the servos to the receiver, right?

[NoEXIST]

1 hour ago, Lixander said:

Ok, so the only way to put a Geekservo in the case of an external receiver is to connect the servos to the receiver, right?

Correct 

[gyenesvi]

On 4/14/2024 at 9:53 PM, NoEXIST said:

Uh, you mean this one, this one is bigger than I could fit

That must be a pretty small receiver then!

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connect external receiver to ESC's through ports i invented for servos

Is that some technological novelty? Would that mean connecting the receiver through a cable, or is it a more direct connection, something like in RCBrick on the bottom? That's kind of an interesting solution, though not sure how many receivers it is compatible with.

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However, next step for me is making this exact brick, but one stud shorter.

That sounds good, you mean it would be shorter because of the removed receiver?

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I'm now using mine transmitter with two different receivers, you don't need to rebind them, just once you connect the transmitter first time.

Interesting to know, I'll test that!

[glowytheglowbug]

impressive project! so far ive just 3d printed a little box to house my electronic bits and solder some wires to act as "ports" that I can connect to when making servo stuff or left it in the open held by rubberbands lol this will be quite an interesting project! (currently I use a radiomaster pocket controller)

[NoEXIST]

10 hours ago, glowytheglowbug said:

impressive project! so far ive just 3d printed a little box to house my electronic bits and solder some wires to act as "ports" that I can connect to when making servo stuff or left it in the open held by rubberbands lol this will be quite an interesting project! (currently I use a radiomaster pocket controller)

Actually making everything separate and connectible is even more advanced method:)

16 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Is that some technological novelty? Would that mean connecting the receiver through a cable

It's just to solder things a little bit differently. But yes, exactly, this will allow every receiver to use.

16 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

That sounds good, you mean it would be shorter because of the removed receiver?

Yep, I already tried to make shorter version. But there's quite a lot things to make, so it will be done a little bit later:)

16 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Interesting to know, I'll test that!

More on this topic, one customer asked me about connecting 2 receivers to one transmitter at the time. I tried  it yesterday and I have to say it kinda worked!

Edited April 16, 2024 by NoEXIST

[NoEXIST]

Having fun with first orders!

 

[aFrInaTi0n]

😍😍

[wower]

Amazing project, well done! Would your receiver work with any remote control that does not look like a pistol? I am looking for something small and easy for the kids. Thanks!

[NoEXIST]

11 hours ago, wower said:

Amazing project, well done! Would your receiver work with any remote control that does not look like a pistol? I am looking for something small and easy for the kids. Thanks!

In usual version it will only work with Dumborc transmitters. But they are only pistol looking as far as I know. Different transmitters can be used but only (size restrictions) with modified version as mentioned few posts earlier. 

P.S. pistol looking remote control can also be smaller as Dumborc x6pm is

[wower]

shame, i prefer normal remote (small) - so back to mouldking with their cheap remote/receiver (incl. battery) I guess.. if something like this was ever produced anywhere in better quality (and more volt power) I'd be so happy

[NoEXIST]

Update: Parts started to arrive including receivers and I got a gyro one to test how will it work... I did find out that you have to place it in proper position. I'm not so far sure this option will be easy to use in different models.

P.S. gyro in my skyline is working if rear of the car is going up🫢

P.P.S. gyro is adjustable with a 6ch knob as we thought

[everybrickasculpture]

Excellent, thanks for the update.  Can't wait to get mine and test them out!

[NoEXIST]

Long time without updates… But now first Decks are getting ready to be shipped

[aFrInaTi0n]

Nice!!! So I quickly need to get the right other rc like lipos, charger, remote etc I reckon.. :D

Btw the remote needs to be some special one? Sorry to just ask, as I lately not having much time to follow threads.. :(

[NoEXIST]

6 hours ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

Btw the remote needs to be some special one?

Any Dumborc transmitter will work 

[NoEXIST]

Just playing around in my free time. This could be something less user friendly for people not familiar with RC at all. Basically an ESC with lego mounts 

I could say it's the most universal way of putting hobby grade components in lego 

[gyenesvi]

2 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

Basically an ESC with lego mounts. I could say it's the most universal way of putting hobby grade components in lego 

Exactly, hence one of the most useful possible products to start with :) I'd get one for sure!

So is this just a mock case, or is there already an ESC in there? Things that seem missing for me is the on-off button, and a status LED. I know you could just disconnect the battery, but that's cumbersome.

And the next logical step could be including a receiver and 4 servo ports in there too :) That would be my ideal product. But that may be rushing too much ahead..

[NoEXIST]

6 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

So is this just a mock case, or is there already an ESC in there?

There is an ESC and little PCB for PF pins, let's say it's already full:) for your proper understanding, this thing is 2x4x4 studs. I didn't manage to fit any technic pin connections in there, even half pin. The way out were system pins.

 

9 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

on-off button

I came out with an idea that I don't like those. Normally they are turning off the esc, but they don't break the circuit, so disconnecting the battery is simply safer. Also not sure where to put one, there's no space for switch sticking out (whole top surface is used by pf ports)

P.S. I am not talking about lack of space inside:)

14 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

And the next logical step could be including a receiver and 4 servo ports in there too :) That would be my ideal product. But that may be rushing too much ahead..

While building those I understood that there are available 2in1 receivers/esc's. Simply that's the thing we want, but we need to make a lego case for it.

 

As soon as I try to fit completely separate components inside RCDeck - it unfortunately won't be any smaller than my finished 4ch RCDeck.

Next thing to do is to design a case with lego connections for a receiver. But the case can't be universal as all receivers are different. 
 

Actually separate components in your model give you infinite flexibility, but as I said - not that user friendly.

 

IMO this way there can be 2 products - user friendly all in one(almost)

- flexible and cheap, but not that user friendly 

[gyenesvi]

6 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

There is an ESC and little PCB for PF pins, let's say it's already full:)

Sounds good! Can you show that ESC and the PCB? Those would be interesting components. Do you know if a PCB also exists for servo pins with some casing like the one you use in your first RCDeck? I'd be interested in experimenting with my own layout too..

6 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

for your proper understanding, this thing is 2x4x4 studs. I didn't manage to fit any technic pin connections in there, even half pin. The way out were system pins.

I get that, and I think there's nothing wrong with that. This looks like the most space efficient thing. You can always add parts with pinholes at the bottom if you need.

6 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

I came out with an idea that I don't like those. Normally they are turning off the esc, but they don't break the circuit, so disconnecting the battery is simply safer.

I see, true that it would be better if it was breaking the circuit too.. But many ESCs include one, so do you say those are not the best to use?

6 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

Also not sure where to put one, there's no space for switch sticking out (whole top surface is used by pf ports)

P.S. I am not talking about lack of space inside:)

Yeah, that's a hard one, maybe on the side. An alternative would be adding one more stud of surface area in one direction, and also routing the cables upwards to make it possible to build it around on all sides. Because this way it effectively requires 5 studs of space in one direction due to the cables.

[NoEXIST]

23 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

those are not the best to use?

Definitely not for leaving a battery inside for a long time. I accidentally left my bigger battery plugged in (and fortunately with buzzer), buzzer woke me up midnight because battery were slowly coming to a dead voltage for lipo

26 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Do you know if a PCB also exists for servo pins with some casing like the one you use in your first RCDeck?

Those were my design, there's almost nothing to see. I was a key to make pin mounts more handy:)

And this esc uses the same, but I cut off everything I didn't need.

 

29 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

 Sounds good! Can you show that ESC and the PCB?

Actually just did build it today and so far it's not tested. Also it has only 5A esc because I don't have 30A esc at the moment:) 

[gyenesvi]

1 minute ago, NoEXIST said:

Definitely not for leaving a battery inside for a long time. I accidentally left my bigger battery plugged in (and fortunately with buzzer), buzzer woke me up midnight because battery were slowly coming to a dead voltage for lipo

In what timeframe did that happen? I have a model built now with an ESC that has an on-off switch, and it's constantly plugged into the battery for a couple weeks now, and it's working fine, not even draining the battery that much. But I think it strongly depends on the ESC construction, if I remember well mine specifically states somewhere that it does not really drain the battery when off.

51 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

whole top surface is used by pf ports

I just had an idea. I think the area for the reversible PF port could be reduced to 2x3 studs instead of 2x4. How about a port like this?

The plug would attach to it the other way around, like this, leaving space for the cable in both directions:

That could leave a 1x4 surface on a total 4x4 surface, used for the built in cables and a switch :) (that could break the circuit)

It would also need less wire connection points than your current one (2 (middle) pins instead of 4).

51 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

While building those I understood that there are available 2in1 receivers/esc's. Simply that's the thing we want, but we need to make a lego case for it.

That's what I thought too, but I could not find such a product (only an old one not in production). Do you have any links to such?

51 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

Next thing to do is to design a case with lego connections for a receiver. But the case can't be universal as all receivers are different.

Not sure that that's too useful. It does not reduce wiring, only it would provide attachment points, but that can be solved easily / flexibly with some plasticine tacks.

51 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

IMO this way there can be 2 products - user friendly all in one(almost)

- flexible and cheap, but not that user friendly 

I agree. I guess the main variation is in the details (number and arrangement of ports, switches, LEDs).

[NoEXIST]

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

In what timeframe did that happen? I have a model built now with an ESC that has an on-off switch, and it's constantly plugged into the battery for a couple weeks now

Mine was in 1/10 brushless rc. I raced it maybe in 12 o'clock (discharged maybe to 3,5v per cell) and that midnight buzzer was screaming.

Maybe components we are using have less battery draw in this conditions, but now I wont leave it like that:)

Original RCDeck uses circuit breacking switch, but I still rather disconnect it 

7 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

I just had an idea. I think the area for the reversible PF port could be reduced to 2x3 studs instead of 2x4. How about a port like this?

This is actually a great idea, I would try this! Also you do not need to reduce studs, 2 of them can stay

[NoEXIST]

But for stock switches theres a problem that they are also almost 2 stud high or 1 stud wide. 
 

Going for smaller switch leads to a different problem, as we want to break the circuit, switch could not handle all the current going from battery to esc

8 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

That's what I thought too, but I could not find such a product (only an old one not in production). Do you have any links to such?

Something like that. 
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJRyh9z

I am a little bit jealous to this thing as I cant make such a nice handmade electronics😅

8 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Not sure that that's too useful. It does not reduce wiring, only it would provide attachment points

I would say there's only one extra wire compared to original rcd. 

[gyenesvi]

1 hour ago, NoEXIST said:

Also you do not need to reduce studs, 2 of them can stay

True, I have realized that after I made the sketch. The studs just go under the protruding cable holder.

45 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

But for stock switches theres a problem that they are also almost 2 stud high or 1 stud wide. Going for smaller switch leads to a different problem, as we want to break the circuit, switch could not handle all the current going from battery to esc

I see. However, I think it would not be a problem if the switch sticks out a bit upwards, but two studs sounds too big indeed. Maybe sticking out 1 or 2 plates is okay, and would help accessibility among the cables actually. But in general I think this problem should be fairly easy to solve, RC models seem to have switches as well, no? And Buwizz / other batteries solve it too, though they may not need to handle so much current?

Quote

Something like that. 
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJRyh9z

Thanks, interesting! Although I guess we can't just take it out of the casing and reuse it somehow. It has too many pins in the way (for the lights I guess).

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I am a little bit jealous to this thing as I cant make such a nice handmade electronics😅

What do you mean handmade? Do you mean custom made by some PCB manufacturer? I guess these are also manufactured, not hand soldered :)

Edited June 27, 2024 by gyenesvi

[NoEXIST]

34 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

RC models seem to have switches as well, no? And Buwizz / other batteries solve it too

They don't break the circuit, so they don't need to handle that much current

40 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

What do you mean handmade? Do you mean custom made by some PCB manufacturer? I guess these are also manufactured, not hand soldered :)

I mean all the components inside RCDeck now are hand soldered together, the pcb I was talking about isn't really a big deal, it's just a base for all the connections