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Posted
On 5/21/2024 at 4:37 PM, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander Ok well i have a similiar motor, 3250kv on 2S LiPo with a total reduction of 7.6:1 and that's how full throttle looks like with 82mm tires.

Edit: just rewatched your video a page bag, that rattling noise from the motor gears sounds rly bad. Even unlubed without bearing it should not sound like that.

Ok, nice MOC! Also, I just jumped into this conversation, but what motor are you using and how did you mount it? Is it similar to vergogneless's, where it has mounts that fit Lego?

On 6/7/2024 at 8:54 AM, Lixander said:

I had nothing to do, so I just made another variant of the RC-E buggy, one that uses the 3D-printed motor adapter and Lego parts for the drive-line.

I also made some replicas of all the electronics.

LWR_RC-E%20buggy%20S-V2.png

Also, @Lixander, what software did you use for this render? It doesn't look like studio, especially with the non-Lego elements in there.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, bruh said:

Ok, nice MOC! Also, I just jumped into this conversation, but what motor are you using and how did you mount it? Is it similar to vergogneless's, where it has mounts that fit Lego?

He has a  more similar motor to mine, which indeed is a brushless motor like vergogneless uses in his creations, but we use bigger motors. If I am not mistaken, vergogneless uses 28XX size motors and I and Ryokeen use 365X motors (the Xs should be also a numbers, but I am not sure about the exact sizes).

Ryokeen uses Lego parts I think for installing the motor and I use a 3D-printed adapter. For the axles, we use a certain type of metal gears from the RC shops.

1 hour ago, bruh said:

Also, @Lixander, what software did you use for this render? It doesn't look like studio, especially with the non-Lego elements in there.

It is Studio :))

The electronics are replicas of the usual ones used in the RC hobby-grade models.

I made them out of Lego parts but I didn't quite used possible connections :/

I will see if I will redo them in order to be able to actually build them.

Edited by Lixander
Posted
2 hours ago, Lixander said:

Ryokeen use 365X motors

For that type of motor the first 2 digits are the diameter and the 2nd 2 digits is the lenght. Actual brand is a Robitronic Razer Ten Combo

4 hours ago, bruh said:

how did you mount it?

The 36xx and brushed 540 motors(not sure about others) got the nice property that their mounting holes are made for m3 screws with a distance almost perfectly matching 4 studs. So i use something like that and anchor the axles with the chassis. But i will switch to a 3D printed adapter once i bought a 3D printer and know how to work with it :D
MotorMount.png

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

But i will switch to a 3D printed adapter once i bought a 3D printer and know how to work with it :D

By the way.......check if it is cheaper to work with a 3D printing and designing company first.

I found a small company in my city that charged me around 14€ for printing a motor adapter and an axle adapter.  Not to forget, the design was already made by somebody else; I just downloaded and sent the 3D files to them.

Edited by Lixander
Posted
8 minutes ago, Lixander said:

By the way.......check if it is cheaper to work with a 3D printing and designing company first.

Did but want to print some other stuff aswell an i'm not sure yet what will fit, so i might need some more prototypes.

Posted
8 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

Did but want to print some other stuff aswell an i'm not sure yet what will fit, so i might need some more prototypes.

Oke.....more freedom in this way :)

Posted (edited)

@Ryokeen I forgot to mention this.........in addition to the RPM cuts, the motor seemed to be more fast going backwards than frontwards.

So I decided to try and see what happens if I swap 2 wires, as the instructions booklet suggests in case that the motor is reversed (I was afraid to do that earlier because I thought that I might create a short-circuit or something like that *R.I.P. my first Geekservo.......sobbing*; anyway, I switched the yellow and the blue wires between them, just to be ”safe”).

And guess what.........the ESC went into the calibration mode and after that, success!.......the motor showed it`s real power. And so I had to set the Punch control setting to almost 100% so that I wouldn`t lose a 3rd 24t gear (which is the gear that meshes with the metal pinion; the 2 gears that went to garbage weren`t shredded..........there were simply cut, as you can see in the 2nd image).

Though I forgot to check if the motor still cuts its RPM at low-medium throttle, but at least the motor feels more ”natural” now and together with the ESC it is calibrated properly.

Also, those 24 km/h / 15 mph were achieved on a pretty small (and fairly crowded) street in my city (see the 3rd photo), so the model should reach at least 30 km/h / 18 mph within bigger spaces (and in cooler seasons - in here it was over 30 °C / 80 °F).

SPEED%20PROOF%20-Screenshot_2024-06-09-1IMG_20240609_185859.jpg

Spoiler

Screenshot%202024-06-10%20003020.png

 

Edited by Lixander
Posted

@Lixander nice to hear that it works now, so it was just reversed. Weird but well at least it works. With DC motors(2 Wires) and brushless(3wires) as long as the brushless is sensorless, you can just swap the cables for hard wire forward/reverse. The Geekservo died cause you switched the Signal cable with the negative polse cable :D so there was power applied, not good. About the punch setting i use 75% but might go lower as full throttle doesn't have enough grip anyways. Also to my suprise, 2 x 36tooth(at least from cada) sanded down a bit and connected with 2k resin hold up very well. No wear so far, but i tried my best to enclose the motor pinion to main shaft gears and lubed them.

And as we use a very similiar motor, that's what i archieved today with full throttle on a parking lot :
 

Spoiler

Speed-Test.png

But i think without ballbearings in the wheelhubs, the parts might melt quickly.

Posted
5 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander nice to hear that it works now, so it was just reversed. Weird but well at least it works. With DC motors(2 Wires) and brushless(3wires) as long as the brushless is sensorless, you can just swap the cables for hard wire forward/reverse. The Geekservo died cause you switched the Signal cable with the negative polse cable :D so there was power applied, not good. About the punch setting i use 75% but might go lower as full throttle doesn't have enough grip anyways. Also to my suprise, 2 x 36tooth(at least from cada) sanded down a bit and connected with 2k resin hold up very well. No wear so far, but i tried my best to enclose the motor pinion to main shaft gears and lubed them.

And as we use a very similiar motor, that's what i archieved today with full throttle on a parking lot :
 

  Reveal hidden contents

Speed-Test.png

But i think without ballbearings in the wheelhubs, the parts might melt quickly.

Yup :/

51 km/h........that's more than a decent speed for a Lego chassis. Bravo!

Do you use ball-bearings in the wheel-hubs?

Posted

Man. 51 km/h is like 30 mph!! That's CRAZY for a Lego car. I'm sure that might seem like "oh yeah, I made it go 51 km/h", but that's actually really impressive.

Great job to both. I personally don't have the budget for RC non-Lego motors, and even if I did, I wouldn't take them as far because I personally prefer to use 100% Lego.

Anyway, hopefully the Legos will hold up well. This is such a unique(ish) niche of Legos and motors combined that is really interesting.

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, bruh said:

Man. 51 km/h is like 30 mph!! That's CRAZY for a Lego car. I'm sure that might seem like "oh yeah, I made it go 51 km/h", but that's actually really impressive.

Great job to both. I personally don't have the budget for RC non-Lego motors, and even if I did, I wouldn't take them as far because I personally prefer to use 100% Lego.

Anyway, hopefully the Legos will hold up well. This is such a unique(ish) niche of Legos and motors combined that is really interesting.

Thanks!

In my case, the whole RC set-up costed me around 200€/$, but in my country that means 1000 bucks.

Anyway, most of the electronics are from AliExpress, but they are quite great for the price (motor + ESC + programming card around 60€/$, receiver + transmitter about 20€/$, Li-Po battery + buzzer under 25€/$ and battery charger about 60€/$).

Moreover, the 3D printed motor adapter holds pretty great for just under 15€/$.

And recently I started to use a metal pinion (under 10€/$).

Also the Lego parts hold fairly good, but I observed that some axles and gears start to deform or "bite" into other parts due to the high RPMs or due to the heat.

Edited by Lixander
Posted

Ok. those prices and website are good to know about if I DO decide to delve into after-market motors + legos. I think that its crazy that Lego is being so crazily challenged. I don't know if anybody has done this before. 

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, bruh said:

I don't know if anybody has done this before. 

Well, I am not among the first ones for sure :)))

Edited by Lixander
Posted (edited)

My Lego tier on my Patreon page is live.
It has the Studio files of 5x W.I.P.s. Among them is a new model that I made in Studio in the last 2 weeks, the updated RC mod of the ”Sprite retro buggy” made by Apachaihapachai and the 1st off-road test run of the brushless modified Sprite buggy. The video of the test run is set to be made public tomorrow on YouTube.

2024-06-23-rc-mod-for-the-retro-buggy---2024-06-09-baja-buggy-promo-card.png

2024-06-09-rc-e-buggy-promo-card.png2024-06-09-rc-mod-for-the-retro-buggy-ma

2024-06-15-mad-buggy-promo-card.png2024-06-09-ruslan-baja-truck-promo-card.

 

 

Edited by Lixander
Posted (edited)

Here is the first ”proper” off-road test run of the brushless ”Sprite retro buggy”.

As you can see, with such power, fitted with the Lego 81.5mm Audi tires and with my level of skill, the model went drifting uncontrollably very easily.

 

Edited by Lixander
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I always wanted to use the small 30 mm wheels combo in a buggy - ”combo” because there is also a thinner rim version.

And finally, I made one which can also fit the topic of the TC27 (if I use the same wheels in front). I have some other tests for the TC27 but this one is just the best.

Moreover, the bodywork is pretty simple and it is inspired by the vintage baja buggies, hence the name (see the spoilers).

It uses 1x PF L motor and 1x Geekservo (because the Lego servo is too long) as electronics and 2x hard 6.5L shocks for the front independent suspension and another 2x hard shocks with the same size for the rear solid-axle suspension type.

Most likely, I will use a hobby-grade LiPo and receiver/transmitter pack paired with @NoEXIST`s RC Deck for making the model fully functional.

LWR_T1.pngLWR_T2.png

LWR_T3.pngScreenshot%202024-07-11%20153629.png

Spoiler

f93c3e35f50287089a81610cfb198a3b.jpgstahlwithmendeolacredit.jpg

508c60ae98943315b3d0f951db5c4b67.jpg6b6eac203a22a830ee710b3ae5b06181.jpg

 

Edited by Lixander
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Paul B Technic said:

That looks very cool, I love the colours.

Thanks a lot! ;)

Edited by Lixander
Posted
On 6/9/2024 at 5:26 PM, Lixander said:

So I decided to try and see what happens if I swap 2 wires, as the instructions booklet suggests in case that the motor is reversed (I was afraid to do that earlier because I thought that I might create a short-circuit or something like that *R.I.P. my first Geekservo.......sobbing*; anyway, I switched the yellow and the blue wires between them, just to be ”safe”).

And guess what.........the ESC went into the calibration mode and after that, success!.......the motor showed it`s real power.

Glad you were able to figure this out on your own! I learned this from some research. Just from a quick google search you can learn more. With brushless motors you can switch any two wires to switch the direction, which as you found out also solves your problem with it going fast in reverse and slow in the forward direction. Check out this video: Just Swap Any 2 of 3 wires 🔄 How to Change Brushless Motor Spin Direction (Reverse Rotation) (youtube.com)
Another thing to note with brushless RC is that when starting turn the transmitter (or remote) on first and then the car, and when you are done turn the car off first and then the transmitter. Why? It prevents any miscommunication such as, in some cases, accidental acceleration (due to the throttle trim not being in the center and the transmitter sending a signal as soon as it is turned on). I found this book from a local library very helpful: Radio-Control Car Manual: The complete guide to buying, building and maintaining: Benfield, Matt: 9781844254705: Amazon.com: Books

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Fluwoeb said:

Glad you were able to figure this out on your own! I learned this from some research. Just from a quick google search you can learn more. With brushless motors you can switch any two wires to switch the direction, which as you found out also solves your problem with it going fast in reverse and slow in the forward direction. Check out this video: Just Swap Any 2 of 3 wires 🔄 How to Change Brushless Motor Spin Direction (Reverse Rotation) (youtube.com)
Another thing to note with brushless RC is that when starting turn the transmitter (or remote) on first and then the car, and when you are done turn the car off first and then the transmitter. Why? It prevents any miscommunication such as, in some cases, accidental acceleration (due to the throttle trim not being in the center and the transmitter sending a signal as soon as it is turned on). I found this book from a local library very helpful: Radio-Control Car Manual: The complete guide to buying, building and maintaining: Benfield, Matt: 9781844254705: Amazon.com: Books

The instructions said that 2 wires should be reversed if the motor spins in the wrong direction, but I wasn`t 100% sure despite that. But I just remembered that when I was testing the model outside and decided that, even if something happens, I am in an open space.

Also, thanks a lot for the resources!

But I still got a problem though: the motor cuts the RPM at low-medium throttle and I tried all the settings on the programming card and nothing. Moreover, on the internet there are few cases and informations about such cases, most of them remaining unsolved :/

Maybe if I change the throttle dead-band the problem would be solved? (this setting must be done manual as it isn`t on the programming card)

Edited by Lixander

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