Lixander`s lodge - W.I.P.`s and MOC`s

[Lixander]

17 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

Nice work so far. Sadly Lego tires are so hard and stiff you can't properly get the balloon effect :D

Thanks!

But the balloon effect isn't bad?

Edited May 21, 2024 by Lixander

[vergogneless]

There are some great developments here, can't wait to see this system in action!

[Lixander]

1 hour ago, vergogneless said:

There are some great developments here, can't wait to see this system in action!

Thanks for the kind words!

I still have to find a proper way to connect the motor shaft to the Lego gears/ axles. I will see in the next week how I will exactly proceed with a mod 1 12 tooth metal pinion gear.

Also, I got almost 20 km/h / around 12.50 mph but I am not sure if this is the limit of this model as the motor is powerful enough but I geared it to a ratio of 5.01:1. You can see more specifications in the 2nd photo and also the theoretical speed that the buggy might achieve.

Edited May 21, 2024 by Lixander

[vergogneless]

1 hour ago, Lixander said:

Thanks for the kind words!

I still have to find a proper way to connect the motor shaft to the Lego gears/ axles. I will see in the next week how I will exactly proceed with a mod 1 12 tooth metal pinion gear.

Also, I got almost 20 km/h / around 12.50 mph but I am not sure if this is the limit of this model as the motor is powerful enough but I geared it to a ratio of 5.01:1. You can see more specifications in the 2nd photo and also the theoretical speed that the buggy might achieve.

It's true that this motor seems complicated to adapt to the Lego system. It's really big, and I wonder if it's really necessary?

 The 2212 motors at €6 each are so easy to adapt, and they perform great on 3S 

[Ryokeen]

@Lixander The video you posted a page back with the throttle by knob and lever, was that full throttle on gas with a i think, 2.77:1 reduction ? Cause for full speed that already looked a bit slow.
also i would suggest that you don't go less than the 5:1 reduction you got know as models with such a motor normally have a reduction of 7:1 to 10:1(i use 7.6:1 and get up to around 40km/h).
Also check that the transmitter is calibrated and the endpoint is properly set.

[Lixander]

2 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander The video you posted a page back with the throttle by knob and lever, was that full throttle on gas with a i think, 2.77:1 reduction ? Cause for full speed that already looked a bit slow.
also i would suggest that you don't go less than the 5:1 reduction you got know as models with such a motor normally have a reduction of 7:1 to 10:1(i use 7.6:1 and get up to around 40km/h).
Also check that the transmitter is calibrated and the endpoint is properly set.

The ratio is 5.01:1 (8 to 24 teeth and then 12 to 20 teeth). And yes, that is the full throttle, but I use a 2S LiPo. Also, I will see what I can do about the calibration of the transmitter, because I have a pretty simple one.

4 hours ago, vergogneless said:

It's true that this motor seems complicated to adapt to the Lego system. It's really big, and I wonder if it's really necessary?

 The 2212 motors at €6 each are so easy to adapt, and they perform great on 3S 

I see what you mean, but I might use this set-up in bigger models. So I kind of need a more powerful motor.

But anyway, thanks for the advices!

And I forgot to say this earlier: vergogneless your models are also great!

Edited May 21, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

@Lixander Ok well i have a similiar motor, 3250kv on 2S LiPo with a total reduction of 7.6:1 and that's how full throttle looks like with 82mm tires.

Edit: just rewatched your video a page bag, that rattling noise from the motor gears sounds rly bad. Even unlubed without bearing it should not sound like that.

Edited May 21, 2024 by Ryokeen

[Lixander]

6 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander Ok well i have a similiar motor, 3250kv on 2S LiPo with a total reduction of 7.6:1 and that's how full throttle looks like with 82mm tires.

Edit: just rewatched your video a page bag, that rattling noise from the motor gears sounds rly bad. Even unlubed without bearing it should not sound like that.

I see. I really don't know how to get more out of the motor without using a 3S LiPo , considering that this is basically how fast it can go.

And about the same thing with the rattling gears. I don't know how to fix them :/

Edited May 22, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

@Lixander You should investigate that rattling sound. If it comes from the gears, you might sand them down a bit to make them a bit less than 1 stud wide as they might rub a bit on the portal axle part. If it's not from the gears and your motor does that sound, then that one has an issue and that would also explain why it isn't as fast as it should be.
Apart from a slight high pitch noise on low rpms(you can hear that at the beginning of my vid) brushless motors are very silent. If they make some rattling noise, it means something inside the motor is rubbing(or a bearing is damaged)

[Lixander]

2 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander You should investigate that rattling sound. If it comes from the gears, you might sand them down a bit to make them a bit less than 1 stud wide as they might rub a bit on the portal axle part. If it's not from the gears and your motor does that sound, then that one has an issue and that would also explain why it isn't as fast as it should be.
Apart from a slight high pitch noise on low rpms(you can hear that at the beginning of my vid) brushless motors are very silent. If they make some rattling noise, it means something inside the motor is rubbing(or a bearing is damaged)

I will dismantle the rear frame then. As soon as I can I will put in here a video of the motor running without being linked to any gear.

Also, is there any problem if I displaced a little by mistake the motor shaft towards the motor can?

Edited May 22, 2024 by Lixander

[Lixander]

@Ryokeen the rattling sound was mostly due to the 12 toothed gear, which had some teeth's slightly bent.

Edited May 22, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

@Lixander that sounds better and yes depending on the motor the shaft shouldn't move at all. If it did move it could rub against some parts, but well that depends on how the motor is build. Normally the shafts should be very ridig and no where near easy to move.

[Lixander]

3 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander that sounds better and yes depending on the motor the shaft shouldn't move at all. If it did move it could rub against some parts, but well that depends on how the motor is build. Normally the shafts should be very ridig and no where near easy to move.

I tried to fit the 3D printed axle adapter without drilling it but it was too tight, so I moved the motor shaft, that is how it happened.

So it was some force in there :)

Edited May 22, 2024 by Lixander

[Lixander]

Long time, no render...........I am currently preparing a testbed for the Project RIOT - RC-E buggy. 

It will probably need some reinforcement on the chassis and on the body-work, but for now I am pleased enough to end the day with it like this.

The RC-E buggy features a 4x4 drive-line, independent suspension on all arms, detachable body-work and rear-wing.

As you can observe in the 3rd render, I tried to replicate the overall form and connections of the transmission and of the differentials of the Project RIOT. But I still have to figure out all the details as for example to see exactly how the drive-axles and the wheel-hubs will be connected, what gear ratio the transmission would have or how the central drive-axles and the differentials will be connected.

I am also thinking to make a version with buggy motors and Lego differentials, but I am still not sure if I would be able to, mostly because of the space the Lego differentials occupy. But I will see if I am going to find a solution for a Lego version.

 

Edited May 28, 2024 by Lixander

[Lixander]

It turned out that not the space for the Lego differentials was the biggest problem, but the small overall space under the bodywork.

But anyway, I managed to squeeze 3x buggy motors into the digital model of the RC-E`s Lego version. Also, the front is pretty crowded too, as the servo-motor almost touches the universal-joint for the front drive.

Moreover, in the next weeks I should round up the design of the parts for Project RIOT. So, the RC-E buggy should take shape in reality also in the next weeks.

Spoiler

 

Edited May 29, 2024 by Lixander

[Lixander]

On 5/18/2024 at 2:37 PM, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander German conrad that's the one i have :D

@Ryokeen I finally got a 12T Mod 1 pinion gear, but it needed an axle adapter as I could only find gears made for 5mm axles. 

The problem is that the screw for the adapter is a little too long, because when I insert the motor shaft into the adapter I can't put the screw in properly :/

Also the screw hole of the axle adapter seems a little loose and shallow anyway :((

So..........would the pinion fly off if I didn`t screw it to the motor shaft?

Edited May 30, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

@Lixander yeah that adapter looks like the hole is a bit to big. The adapter is intended as a sleve where you put the screw through the pinion and through the adapter(the hole) pressing onto the flat part of the motor shaft. So a bit bigger hole in the adapter won't be a problem and tightly screwed and with a drop of locktite that won't come off.
Unless your adapters got 2 holes, you just mounted them wrong ;)

[Lixander]

8 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander yeah that adapter looks like the hole is a bit to big. The adapter is intended as a sleve where you put the screw through the pinion and through the adapter(the hole) pressing onto the flat part of the motor shaft. So a bit bigger hole in the adapter won't be a problem and tightly screwed and with a drop of locktite that won't come off.
Unless your adapters got 2 holes, you just mounted them wrong ;)

I see.......I was thinking that the pinion screw must be also put trough the hole of the adapter :)) Thanks!

Now it looks like this.

Edited May 31, 2024 by Lixander

[Lixander]

I had nothing to do, so I just made another variant of the RC-E buggy, one that uses the 3D-printed motor adapter and Lego parts for the drive-line.

I also made some replicas of all the electronics.

Edited July 21, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

@Lixander Looking good and damn i need a 3D printer for a proper and sealed motor mount. Doing an enclosed gearcase with lego only is..clumsy.

Btw. did the pinion gear help ?

[Lixander]

32 minutes ago, Ryokeen said:

@Lixander Looking good and damn i need a 3D printer for a proper and sealed motor mount. Doing an enclosed gearcase with lego only is..clumsy.

Btw. did the pinion gear help ?

Thanks! Also.....yup, enclosed hobby-grade gears are the best :)

The pinion helped a lot as now I can probably run the model for much longer period of times, but I didn`t managed to test it properly yet. Thanks a lot for the suggestion!

Though, I feel that something still isn`t right because the model feels slow (and it is, at just 10 km/h in the last run). The motor easily got extremely hot with 94mm tires and a final gearing of around 6:1, the highest ratio I could put (12-24T and 8-24T gears).

I already reinstalled the 81mm tires on the model and on the next run I will also take some different gears with me to test 2 other ratios: 3.34:1 (12-24T and 12-20T gears) and 2:1 (12-24T and 16-16T gears) . Also, I think I will try to test the model with the 75mm spiked tires too. 

P.S.: I really need to get a screwdriver with a hexagonal head :/

Edited June 7, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

1 hour ago, Lixander said:

Though, I feel that something still isn`t right because the model feels slow (and it is, at just 10 km/h in the last run). The motor easily got extremely hot with 94mm tires and a final gearing of around 6:1, the highest ratio I could put (12-24T and 8-24T gears).

Maybe the gearing is to low(so you need more reduction) for 94mm tires. Or the motor itself isn't working properly.
I had a quick run with a SkyRC GPS logger(but only with 3wheel drive..one axle broke) on a 3250kv with 7.6:1 reduction and 82mm gears. 40km/h is easy to reach at ~ 3/4 throttle.
Since yours is almost the same kV either the motor got issues as it should not get hot at all(mine never went over hand warm after a full 5200mah 2s LiPo). Or the ESC isn't working well. But motor to warm is either to much load on it, or something is blocking/timing is off.

[Lixander]

43 minutes ago, Ryokeen said:

Maybe the gearing is to low(so you need more reduction) for 94mm tires. Or the motor itself isn't working properly.
I had a quick run with a SkyRC GPS logger(but only with 3wheel drive..one axle broke) on a 3250kv with 7.6:1 reduction and 82mm gears. 40km/h is easy to reach at ~ 3/4 throttle.
Since yours is almost the same kV either the motor got issues as it should not get hot at all(mine never went over hand warm after a full 5200mah 2s LiPo). Or the ESC isn't working well. But motor to warm is either to much load on it, or something is blocking/timing is off.

I see. The kV is about the same, but what size is your motor?

Also, about the timing..........the motor cuts its RPM every few seconds at low-medium throttle so I tried to see if a higher timing fixes it. I usually run on High (which is the 4th out of 5 timing settings). What timing setting would you use (Lowest - 0^o/ Low - 4^o/ Normal - 8^o/ High - 16^o/ Highest - 30^o)?

P.S.: The motor cuts its RPM at any timing from what I have tested until now.

Edited June 7, 2024 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

12 minutes ago, Lixander said:

I see. The kV is about the same, but what size is your motor?

3652 size, about timing, no clue :D i know what it is, but i think the motor i use doesn't have an adjustable timing. The motor cutting down in RPM every few secs is a bad sign. What kind of ESC are you running ? My motor needs at least an 50A ESC

[Lixander]

30 minutes ago, Ryokeen said:

3652 size, about timing, no clue :D i know what it is, but i think the motor i use doesn't have an adjustable timing. The motor cutting down in RPM every few secs is a bad sign. What kind of ESC are you running ? My motor needs at least an 50A ESC

Oke :/

I use a SkyRC combo....the ESC is rated at 60A - 90A

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003146229305.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis!RON!RON 292.97!RON 292.97!!!62.74!62.74!%40210387a117177943331655264e584e!12000024346349027!sh!RO!4322580367!&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007586481169.1005003146229305

P.S.: I use this receiver/ transmitter set: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32801237523.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.50.f63c1802FGOdY8

Edited June 7, 2024 by Lixander