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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Hi,

Since this set is special, like 42110.and will get more than just a handful of mods I was thinking about making a discord messageboard/chatroom and letting people MOD it as a community, so i'll PM the link for those interested (hopefully some technic veterans will be interested in taking part!) since I want to make this set as good as possible.

This thread is not exclusively for that group anyhow, so anyone can post their MODs, or discuss MODs here.

I will leave the 42172 McLaren MODs thread for another user to create.

Without further ado here is some of my mod ideas:

• I want to use some of the new black 1x2 tiles with diagonal cutout + some normal tiles to cover the holes on the black mudguards. (I will post the ldraw mockup of that shortly)

• Locking front diff

• Locking central diff (if official set does not have one)

• 8 speed gearbox (if official set does not have one)

• Winch (if official set does not have one)

• Adjustable ride height

• Rear wheel steering (a little)

• Locking doors (if official set does not have them)

• Locking rear door (if official set does not have one)

• Bonnet latch (if official set does not have one)

• Removable Body

• Portal hubs with fake disc brakes (have this in ldraw already)

• I think full motorization+LEDS is a stretch even without factoring in 2 buwizz 3.0's but I can just make a scaled up version with more.room  (much later on though), partial motorization is certainly possible (just look at gamayuns 42110 mod V6!)

Looking forward to seeing what we can do with this beast 🙂

EDIT: discord server is up and can be found here (no registration required)

Edited by SNIPE

Only way I see you could fit a locking diff in the same axle width would be by using the 5 studded CV joints from the Ford GT to make 2 studs of room for the transmission ring. You would probably have to use 5 studded suspension arms too too keep everything nice and aligned.

  • Author
3 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

Only way I see you could fit a locking diff in the same axle width would be by using the 5 studded CV joints from the Ford GT to make 2 studs of room for the transmission ring. You would probably have to use 5 studded suspension arms too too keep everything nice and aligned.

nah I use the new shorter reinforced cv joints with a 2L gear shift ring going into the differential all inaode of a 7x11 frame

Edited by SNIPE

  • Author
1 hour ago, Zerobricks said:

They will not fit in the current axle width...

ok I see your point, DAMN

  • Author
2 hours ago, NV Lego technic said:

Modifying it into a wider version would give you an excuse to have more space for a front diff lock.

Yeah, for now  ill just ditch the planetary hubs and use stock hubs along with cv joint female short and 5L axle with cv joint ends.

Anyhow, i forgot that the beams are not 45 degrees but 53.13 degrees so the horizontal 6 and 8L tile isnt quite fitting :(

640x125.png

LDCAD freaked out when I tried to copy then mirror this assembly for the other side of the car but heres the ldraw file anyhow: here and heres a full size image: here

Working on front axle now

EDIT: done, didnt add steeing yet because not sure where the steering goes in real model, I have brick built fake disc brakes that can slip over the wheel hubs, they were originally for my 42110 mod so went over planetary hubs but they should work here too.
640x345.png
LDRAW file: here and full size image here

This axle is more or less the same as the one in my 42110 mod and the clutch ring is moved using a comma panel connected to a spike prime small angular motor (too bad about the color vomit)

Edited by SNIPE

  • Author

Update:

not sure if rear axle frame is 1 module too close the side girders. Steering to be connected comma panels + spike prime small angular motors for diff locks

I have an axle from my 42110 mod with the motors comma panels and steering done but its wider and also uses planetary hubs so I need to adapt the steering so that it uses the hubs from set 42143.

oh also SORRY but the live axle I cannot keep because its full of diagonal beams and links and also the whole axle itself needs to move which is a MASSIVE space killer and I need all the space i can get.

I am not even putting the cables in 1x1 gaps because even those are wasteful, instead , im putting them in the tiny gaps that is presenti inbetween 2 beams/connectors placed in series.

If my tiled off mudguard idea works in practise or if I can change it slightly so theres no parts collosion I may just widen the wheel spacing anyhow so that way I can get the planetary hubs in + reinforced VC joints. its much easier than scaling the whole car up, thats a last resort.

Edited by SNIPE
Removed backround audio from video

  • Author
6 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

What's a comma panel?

Also you can use the red diff gear with 28 bevel gears to drive diffs centrally and avoid 8 tooth gears.

toilet roll panel this fits in the gap in the 2L drive ring.

I wanna use the yellow diffs are they are stronger and dont slip as easily, I have an idea on how to mount them centrally if I need to the 8 tooth gears irk me a little but...

Edited by SNIPE

3 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said:

Toilet roll panel, 89679

 

1 minute ago, SNIPE said:

toilet roll panel this fits in the gap in the 2L drive ring.

Added to my LEGO slang database :wink:

Quote

I wanna use the yellow diffs are they are stronger and dont slip as easily, I have an idea on how to mount them centrally if I need to the 8 tooth gears irk me a little but...

Trust me, you're gonna break the CV joints (at least in the front) way before you can make two 28 tooth bevel gears slip.

  • Author

Ok, i've came to a decision, since it is basically impossible to fit these 6L steering links in, I tried a load of ideas, even with the new links in set 42182. So I have decided to make the axle 1L wider on each size,and either:

A. Just keep the bodywork as is, but tile off the wheel arches which makes the wheel arches which would increase their width anyhow so therefore the wheel wont look like it sticks out as much

B  Widen the entire body, but then its out of propotion

C. Scale up the entire model (so basically redesign the whole dang model, this is the hardest option

Now onto the upsides:

A has the benefit of letting me use the short reinforced wheel joints with the planetary hubs, so more axle strengh and drive torque

B same as A but more space for other mods since the chassis is wider

C same as A but more space for other mods since the chassis is wider, higher, and longer

I'll do A for now as its the least invasive.

Edited by SNIPE

Doing away with the rear live axle in this model is cheating! A mod should rather improve the live axle geometry :)

I'll definitely give it a go trying to slim down the axle (build a 7x7 frame instead of using the 11x7 frame). Also will see what can be done on the front axle to include a diff lock using the 5L steering arms / driveshafts.

  • Author
5 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Doing away with the rear live axle in this model is cheating! A mod should rather improve the live axle geometry :)

I'll definitely give it a go trying to slim down the axle (build a 7x7 frame instead of using the 11x7 frame). Also will see what can be done on the front axle to include a diff lock using the 5L steering arms / driveshafts.

Thx, I'm having a headache here lol

7 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Ok, i've came to a decision, since it is basically impossible to fit these 6L steering links in, I tried a load of ideas, even with the new links in set 42182. So I have decided to make the axle 1L wider on each size,and either:

A. Just keep the bodywork as is, but tile off the wheel arches which makes the wheel arches which would increase their width anyhow so therefore the wheel wont look like it sticks out as much

B  Widen the entire body, but then its out of propotion

C. Scale up the entire model (so basically redesign the whole dang model, this is the hardest option

What about changing front axle into spring loaded pendular

  • Author
10 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

What about changing front axle into spring loaded pendular

Takes up too much space just as the stock rear axle does im afraid.

This needs a 9x6 "frame", but it's narrower than mounting the driving ring directly.  The new type of 2 wide driving ring should have more clearance than this one, I just haven't got it in Studio yet.  Depending what else is reinforcing the axles, you could even use thin liftarms to fit this in a 5 wide space.

eJUFuWo.png

Edited by Stereo

  • Author
2 hours ago, Stereo said:

This needs a 9x6 "frame", but it's narrower than mounting the driving ring directly.  The new type of 2 wide driving ring should have more clearance than this one, I just haven't got it in Studio yet.  Depending what else is reinforcing the axles, you could even use thin liftarms to fit this in a 5 wide space.

eJUFuWo.png

this isn't a proper diff lock, I did something similar but where I used a 20 tooth gear on both sides of the diff which meshed to a 12 tooth on both sides which meshed to 20 tooths where one is an idler but this took up more space, until the new 2L drive ring+ short reinforced female CV joints came out, now I can put the drive ring on the same axle as the diff.

It's functionally the same as putting a driving ring into the diff.

  • Author
1 hour ago, Stereo said:

It's functionally the same as putting a driving ring into the diff.

it isn't as independent as a normal locking differential like the 2 ways I showed is what I mean. The land rover axle is actually 1L  wider on each side compared to the stock 42177 axle.

I have a third iteration anyhow now, as I rather stupidly thought (idk why) that the audi wheel hubs were just the same , connections wise as the planetary hubs and so I substituted them with the audi hubs but their connection points are different, so I had to jump through a few hoops to get the steering not rubbing against the rims of the tyre but also so that the steering geometry is correct, I have it close to correct but need 4x belvillle mic from brick link, as the steering arms are like 1mm too high on the steering rack side and cannot go higher on the wheel side because it is almost scraping the inside of the wheel as is. The belvillle mic is slightly lower then a ball pin and even lower than an axle pin, but unlike a bar with ball joint, has a stopper so it cant get pushed down too far which causes 2 problems :)

Pics of this soon. Also @Jim can I just paste the discord link here or is that against the rules?

Edited by SNIPE

6 hours ago, Stereo said:

This needs a 9x6 "frame", but it's narrower than mounting the driving ring directly.  The new type of 2 wide driving ring should have more clearance than this one, I just haven't got it in Studio yet.  Depending what else is reinforcing the axles, you could even use thin liftarms to fit this in a 5 wide space.

 

That's a pretty cool, compact design! The even width is somewhat annoying, but even if you add a spacer on one side, 7 wide isn't bad!

45 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

The even width is somewhat annoying, but even if you add a spacer on one side, 7 wide isn't bad!

Yeah, it's not really an ideal solution, the CV axles only having 2L of axle on them is another problem, it can't use the Ford GT halfshafts because it requires the 52730 CV joint with 3L axle.  So I guess you'd end up with one 6 long suspension arm on that side, and a 5 long on the other side, if you wanted to hit the original track width.  Or else be at least 1 stud wider.

Edited by Stereo

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