BACKGROUND

I actually had an idea to do a Technic Ornithopter back in 2021, after watching Dune 1. I tried to build it from the parts of the Osprey, but I quickly gave up because I realized the wing folding function can only be done with tow ball links, which the Osprey doesn't have, and because the Osprey only has 6 blades, which isn't enough for a proper Ornithopter which has 8 wings.

Fast forward to the end of 2023, and the set 10327 was revealed in anticipation of the upcoming movie Dune 2. That was when I knew I gotta do a Technic version of this set. Why going through all that trouble instead of just buying 10327, you may ask? The main reason is that I'm just not a fan of building with System bricks and plates. I grew up with Technic, so I'm most comfortable with Technic. The urge to build a Technic version grew stronger after I watched reviews following the official release in Feb 24. The original set is without a doubt a Technic set dressed in plates and bricks.

Another reason is that there are some aspects of the original 10327 that I think can be done better, which I will cover later.

 

DEVELOPMENT

The biggest challenge for me is that I don't have the parts or the original model to refer to. I don't wanna own 2 Ornithopters, so I decided to design on Studio first, and ordered the parts later. 

The ultimate goal is to keep the original functions and mechanisms of the original 10327 while redesigning the rest in Technic parts and making improvements in certain places.

I started with building the original 10327 in Studio, and started to adapt the walls into odd-with distances. Then I started with the tail. Since the tail is where the player will grab to pick up the model, it needs a lot of reinforcement. I used a 3x19 frame in the middle and the 3x19 tapered panels on both sides to reinforce it.

 

 

It's very fortunate for me that those two parts exist in DBG, thanks to the Liebherr crane, otherwise there's no way I can design this model.

After the tail is finished, I moved to the body. The difficult part of the body is that there are many moving parts, which means there must be a lot of empty spaces to accommodate the full range and end positions of all these movements. And it's even more difficult without any part around to test it. My only way of checking is the rotation function of Studio. And since the inside contains the moving part, it can only be braced longitudinally thanks to another pair of 3x19 frame. The vertical brace also takes place at the two end of the frames. I can't stress enough the importance of this piece for this construction of this set.

 

 

The inner workings have been replicated from the 10327 and adapted to an odd-length module, so nothing new here. The same goes for the wing folding function and the wing connections.

 

After the body is complete, it's time for the cabin. 

The original 10327 has another function that I didn't replicate in my model: opening doors.

The reason is that it's not possible to construct this shape of the cabin with Technic parts in a structurally rigid way. Since Technic generally don't have glasses or transparent panels, constructing a cabin usually involves designing the boundary lines only.

The only feasible way I can think of is to use axle connectors, and that wouldn't be rigid enough. If I use liftarms, I will need extra layers to keep them in place and in certain angles, which will make the lines very bulky and ugly.

 

 

 

Therefore I decided to at least capture the boundary lines. The curve of the upper line can be captured perfectly through a pair of #5 and #6 panels. And the bent angle can be replicated with the 45 degree bent liftarm (32009). Fortunately, that part is one of the only two liftarms that exist in transclear, so I used a transclear one in the middle to represent the roof glass.

 

 

FUNCTIONS

Three main functions of the original 10327 are faithfully replicated:

- Extendable landing legs and ramp
- Extendable wings
- Flappable wings.

 

IMPROVEMENTS

- Improved appearance: I got rid of all the red 2L axles and minimized the exposed blue pins. As a matter of personal preference I don't like exposed studs on the exterior, so the Technic panels give me a much smoother surface.

- The real Dune thopter has horizontal rectangular pipes at the end and side vents slanting more along the side of the thopter.

 

The original 10327 didn't replicate this part well in my opinion. The rear pipe is too squarish, and the side vents are of the wrong orientation. The side bars along the tail is also not there.

 

This is my version.

 

- Seating area: In the real Dune thopter, the seating area has 5 seats in 3 rows.

 

The 10327 model only has 2 rows and 2 seats.

 

In my model. thanks to the expanded width, I managed to put 5 seats which can accommodate 5 figures.

 

- Flapping range. I don't have the original model so I don't really know the true extent of the flapping, but according to the reviews I watched the range of the rear wings seems to be minimal. Sariel's video at 13:33:

 

My version has a more pronounced flapping range. AT 0:47

 

Overall I'm very happy with the final result. This model also allows me to take a break from the all the mini models I'm working on and do something new. It also allows the possibility of another MOC that can reuse some techniques of this set: a Fremen 2-seater Ornithopter .

Instruction: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-189489/nguyengiangoc/technic-10327-dune-atreides-royal-ornithopter/

Edited July 14, 2024Jul 14 by Ngoc Nguyen

The mechanism for the wings and most of the shape look really good, but I think the cockpit would have been better if it were made from angled connectors. The limiting factor might be the color availability, but it would let you make the big window in the roof. 

Well done and thanks for sharing, I love how you have presented this.

2 hours ago, BusterHaus said:

if it were made from angled connectors.

The problem with this approach is that it can't be braced longitudinally while remains thin enough to look good, and if it's not braced when I grab it by the cabin the whole cabin roof would be ripped off.

Yeah, it's often a compromise between strength and looks. It's still a great model, nice work. 

Nice job!

I have the ornithopter, flapping range is about the same as in your model. Yes, the front wings flap more than rear ones but it's not as bad as in some reviews. It seems that the build is just very fiddly. A dream come true would be more pronounced and motorized flapping - I wonder how fast the wings could go before whole thing shakes itself apart.

12 hours ago, Paul B Technic said:

Well done and thanks for sharing, I love how you have presented this.

Thanks a lot for the support!

 

39 minutes ago, Davidz90 said:

A dream come true would be more pronounced and motorized flapping - I wonder how fast the wings could go before whole thing shakes itself apart.

I guess it's possible to hollow out the cabin and put an M motor with a battery box in there, but it wouldn't be realistic, because in the real the thopter the wings are supposed to vibrate instead of flapping.

1 hour ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

it wouldn't be realistic, because in the real the thopter the wings are supposed to vibrate instead of flapping.

True, althought border between "vibrating" and "flapping extremely fast" is rather blurry. I'm gonna do some experiments with hitting the resonance frequency of the blades - this way, fast pronounced flapping/vibration could be done with minimal movement of the wing root.