Motorized track switches

[DzieX]

Hi,

I'm looking for some ideas for motorized track switches. I'd like to use technic beams, PF m-motors and no clutch. Have you seen something similar?
(I have lots of free PF motors and some chinese 4ch and 2ch rechargable batteries with remotes)

[1963maniac]

Maybe one of these will help.

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-11841/1963maniac/train-track-switch-controller/#details You can use a 24 tooth gear instead of a clutch gear.

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-11390/1963maniac/motorized-switch-controller-for-train-tracks/#details

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-147294/BatteryPoweredBricks/low-profile-switching-machine-mod/#details

[DzieX]

Thanks. The last one looks promising.

[and_ampersand_and]

I've used the last one and confirm it works pretty well!

[Ropefish]

Honestly if you can, it'd cost about the same to set up a system using DCC point switches. Number of options there as well!

[DzieX]

But I already have parts to make it.

Edited October 3, 2024 by DzieX

[DzieX]

Don't want to spam with another topic, so I'm asking here. Have you seen any construction which use servo to switch track?

[ilcanty]

Hi!

this is my first post, hope to respect all the rules.
Actually I've automated my switches using a little different technique: I've used LEGO-compatible Powerfunctions micro-motor (2x4 studs) and a technic friction gear to avoid motor overload when the switch is at the end of its "switch". 

Flickr album :  https://www.flickr.com/photos/201727625@N08/albums/72177720321362045/

Here a photo of the assembled "automation box" : 

 

You could connect my MOC to a standard powerfunction receiver, but i've implemented a little circuit to drive my automation (you can see it installed in a couple of images and working in the videos). The circuit allow me to drive the switch over WIFI connection, and drive the direction light too.

If you want to see 2 automated switces working together on a complete track, here a youtube video :  https://youtu.be/LO3hQh2Fjj0

 

Any suggestion or comment is appreciated!

 

 

 

 

[Toastie]

1 hour ago, ilcanty said:

this is my first post, hope to respect all the rules.

Welcome to EB!

No, you did not. Well, sort of not. Hmm, who really cares about strictly "not", I certainly don't. Not in this forum, I believe. Someone may notice the blurred studs in your photographs

This is a nice motor you are using! Are there any issues with the friction of the gear when using different makes and models of switch points? Or do you manipulate these as well, as I do?

All the best, and thanks for sharing,
Thorsten 

[ilcanty]

19 minutes ago, Toastie said:

This is a nice motor you are using! Are there any issues with the friction of the gear when using different makes and models of switch points? Or do you manipulate these as well, as I do?

Hello Toastie!

Thank you for your suggestions 

No, I didn't modified the switches, only removed the "(yellow) lever". I tried different switch supplier (original or not) without any issue.
In all the switches model i tested, the standard friction gear allowed the switch to effectively change without "clacking". If you want a more soft friction, you can carefully open the gear and use some sandpaper to lower the friction points.

Micromotors : I used both 2x3 and 2x4 without problems. The torque is quite interesting, to give you an example, this cargo crane use a micromotor to rise and lower the container without issues (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wBi4-0NAI4).

Why the friction gear: I used it mainly to protect the motor because it may be hard to know "when" the switch effectively changed position. In my automation I engage the motor for about 3sec: without a friction gear that the motor will get stuck maybe for half a second; with the friction gear, the worst case is that the gear make some "clacking" and that's it.
Another information: as far as the battery discharge, the motor took more time to effectively "switch":
- full power : less then 2seconds
- 40% power (about) : less then 3 seconds

This is why I set the interval for the higher response time, to be sure that the switch effectively change position, and I let the friction-gear manage the "overtime" when i've full power batteries.

Next steps:
* manage the 3-way switch => how to determine the central position accurately?)
* double crossover switch => more resistance because you move basically 2 switches with 1 motor.

best regards!