Bridge for trains

[BillytheKid]

I'm not happy with my current layout and would like to change it. A nice item will be a bridge for 12v trains. Who has already build one or/and has experience with it. 12v trains are not lightweights and some of mine pull 4 long wagons. The bridge itself won't be any problem, only how should I build the slope. Like how many straight tracks I need to get the train in the 'air'?

[Freddie]

The Train Depot has a page dedicated towards inclines and bridges. These are aimed at 9V trains, but I suspect it will work nicely with 12V trains as well, seeing how one of the layouts in the idea book had trains climbing a sharper incline. What the link will not tell you, is that it is a good idea to use hinges of this type when connecting the rails to the pillars, as done in the idea book. But keep in mind to even out the transitions, or you might get derailments.

For bridges, use technic for anything that will be carrying the trains' weight.

[BillytheKid]

Very useful information. I'm designing right now where I use 18 straight tracks to get the train in the air. In book 7777 they use 14 straight tracks. I think it should do the trick, I hope ...........

Edited September 22, 2008 by Panda9001100

[Eilif]

The specific page is here http://www.ngltc.org/train_depot/inclines.htm. the number of tracks necessary to establish a new elevation (one or two plates of elevation per track) is prohibitive for most folks, but it looks like your layout may be large enough to pull it off. Be sure to let us know how it turns out.

[Siegfried]

I've only tried with the new trains.... and I don't recomend it! I was trying a brick elevation per track and it only worked with no load.

[Zorro]

For bridges, use technic for anything that will be carrying the trains' weight.

And make a secondary/backup carrial system, if the first one breaks down, the second line will hold, although letting both SEPERATE block combinations would be better off if they lie next to each other so each carry 50/100.

If needed, hide away a small piece of wood, plastic or even metal to carrie it, then you can use your Lego to make it look better.

PS: I would use hinges too: pretty easy to make.

[AgentRick]

I've only tried with the new trains.... and I don't recomend it! I was trying a brick elevation per track and it only worked with no load.

Brick elevations make it rather steep, and I know this from experience! as pointed out already, The Train Depot says that a 2/3 plate per track works best, and that rising elevations on curves are no-gos.

[JopieK]

I'm not happy with my current layout and would like to change it. A nice item will be a bridge for 12v trains. Who has already build one or/and has experience with it. 12v trains are not lightweights and some of mine pull 4 long wagons. The bridge itself won't be any problem, only how should I build the slope. Like how many straight tracks I need to get the train in the 'air'?

I have a very strong bridge, even loaded with 7760 locomotives it survives. I can try to make pictures for you. It must be about 1,50 meters long and has two 12V tracks.

[FreeBee]

Very useful information. I'm designing right now where I use 18 straight tracks to get the train in the air. In book 7777 they use 14 straight tracks. I think it should do the trick, I hope ...........

Great idea that bridge , it will add more dimension into your layout.

Here are some suggestions to help u even more :

- Could u maybe post the tdl file of your lay-out?

- Is this the maximum space u have availible for your lay-out?

- Do you have more track or is this all?

Edited September 27, 2008 by FreeBee

[BillytheKid]

I have a very strong bridge, even loaded with 7760 locomotives it survives. I can try to make pictures for you. It must be about 1,50 meters long and has two 12V tracks.

I would like to see pic's of your bridge.

Here is the tdl-file:

Link to my brickshelf

You can send modified design to my email. Thx for helping me.