osakana Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 Instructions of 10194 are uploaded to LEGO.com, including the part of installing Power function motor and IR receiver.10194-1 http://cache.lego.com/bigdownloads/buildin...ons/4561463.pdf 10194-2 http://cache.lego.com/bigdownloads/buildin...ons/4557567.pdf Oh my, so the poor litte guy must get off the train in order to put the engine inside? This is one of saddest things in the world. Quote
Cwetqo Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 Oh my, so the poor litte guy must get off the train in order to put the engine inside? This is one of saddest things in the world. Yes, and if you look closely to one of my pictures you could see it: Quote
whung Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 I find that the instruction of 10194 does not require 8866 (Train Motor) to run the train, so what is the purpose of 8866? Quote
Er!k Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 I like the fact that you can build in a battery, but indeed don't like the fact that it will be so visible, and the minifig cannot control the engine Quote
Freddie Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 8866's purpose is to convert older train to Power Functions, and will probably also be used in the normal train sets that retailers will sell. Also, in most cases there simply won't be enough room inside a locomotive to set up a driving gear as intricate as the one on Emerald Night, that's where this motor also has its strength. Quote
simonwillems Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 ... but indeed don't like the fact that it will be so visible, and the minifig cannot control the engine Well, when it comes to controlling the engine: the person holding the remote will do that job, so the minifig is out of business anyway But seriously: I don't like the fact that the motor is so visible and takes up so much space either. Maybe it is possible to fit the M-motor inside instead of the XL. It's a shame I can not get the instructions displayed on my computer... I will probably convert the whole thing to 9 volt the same way I made the steam-engine in my signature, but I like the size of the new battery box a whole lot more than the rounded and hard-to-build-in older version. Quote
Brickthus Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 I find that the instruction of 10194 does not require 8866 (Train Motor) to run the train, so what is the purpose of 8866? If you want your Emerald Night to pull a long train, put 1 or 2 8866 motors under the first carriage. 9V ones could be used instead. It might be good to speed up the loco by changing the gearing while you're at it. Not sure if 24:8 gears will fit in place of 16:16 but that is a ratio more suited to the speed of the 9V and 8866 motors for a given electrical power input. Alternatively, try with a PF medium motor in the cab as that will have the same 3x speeding-up effect. Then wire all the motors in parallel on the one IR receiver output. You might need to adjust the parts inside the boiler or use a PF extension wire to bring all but one of the plugs into the cab, tender or coach, where there's more space. Mark Quote
Holodoc Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 Yes, and if you look closely to one of my pictures you could see it: Now that´s what I call a big disappointment! The visible motor is simply ugly and weakens the complete look of the set. I cannot believe TLC couldn´t have done it better. Quote
Cavannus Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 Now that´s what I call a big disappointment! The visible motor is simply ugly and weakens the complete look of the set. I cannot believe TLC couldn´t have done it better. I can't understand how someone at TLG accepted that a so nice set could be ruined in this way by adding a PF motorization: - on the one hand, the Emerald Night without PF is the nicest train engine set ever - on the other hand, the combo Emerald Night + PF motorization is the ugliest conversion ever! The Emerald Night has been supposed to be the spearhead of the new PF and train systems -- and look how they wrecked it! (I bought the whole pack without expecting a so bad conversion; anyway it's not a problem though, I'm sure other PF engines will be released and I assume the motorization will fit in a decent way.) Quote
brickfreak99 Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 I hope the train motor can replace the XL Motor, since the XL Motor is ugly and we can also make diesel trains and power the tender. Quote
AgentRick Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 Does anyone know if the smaller PF motor can be used for this instead of the XL one? Quote
Cale Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 For all you people complaining about what LEGO did or didn't do or what they should have or shouldn't have done in regards to the Emerald Night set. Remember it's LEGO. If you don't like the way the set is designed you can always build your own. I think the Emerald Night is a great set. It has some short comings but they're not deal breakers for me. It's a set and it's not going to be perfect. When I want a better model than what LEGO can provide I build it myself. Cale Quote
Tinn-man Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 Emerald Night = Epic Win Power Functions = Epic Fail How am I going to fit all of that in this, this, or even this? I've already looked the size of the battery box, and it won't even fit inside of the BNSF. I don't really like this new system, they battery box sticks out way too much. Oh well, if I ever get this set, I'm going to play around with ways to cover that up. Quote
brickfreak99 Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) I hope it isn't too bad. I hope the power is on par/greater than the speed of the 9v era. I will try to fit all the PF accessories excluding the lights in the tender of 10194. I will replace the XL Motor with the newtrain motor.It could fit regarding that you only need the Battery Box, Ir Receiver and the train motor. Edited April 3, 2009 by brickfreak99 Quote
Tinn-man Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 So wait, if you use this, then you don't need the extra large motor? Quote
brickfreak99 Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 I think/hope so. Why else would they release a brand new train motor? Quote
Captain Zuloo Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 I don't mind the battery box in 10194, because it wouldn't be all that hard to cover it up with a thin layer of black 'coal'. However the huge motor in the driving cab sucks! And with the battery box having a speed dial, can train speed be controlled remotely? If not, then there is no question, I'm sticking with 9V. Quote
Captain Zuloo Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 What do you mean by 'remotely'? I mean, if there is a speed controller on the battery box, is there means of controling the speed via the remote control. Or is the speed preset and the RC remote only does direction? Quote
highlandcattle Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 I do like the new led lights, and I see they have a connector for 9v motors aswell, I gonna buy a few of them since the original 9v lights are quite rare. I have been out of the hobby for half a year or so. But now my interest has been rekindeled by these new things. Quote
brickfreak99 Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 I mean, if there is a speed controller on the battery box, is there means of controling the speed via the remote control. Or is the speed preset and the RC remote only does direction? Well, in that case, it will be, since ou are directed to put an IR reciever in the train in the instructions and the battery box control is just if you don't have a remote/IR RX. Quote
Freddie Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 I mean, if there is a speed controller on the battery box, is there means of controling the speed via the remote control. Or is the speed preset and the RC remote only does direction? For remote control, you simply set the speed dial on the battery to full speed. Anything less would mean less power for the motors when you regulate the speed from the remote. The speed dial is there for uses where the user wants to regulate speed, but doesn't need to do it by remote control. As for having different motors, aren't options nice? Quote
Cwetqo Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 Look how cheap is new motor! The price is 12€, so you could get 3 for the price of one 9V motor. If only it could take power from 9v rails, and we would have cheap replacement for our aged 9v motors. And it takes middle "blind" wheel as well, and you could use different wheels, so it's very nice for future MOC-s. Has anyone checked the distance between two driving wheel on 10194? Is it the same as between two axles of new motor? That would make a winning combination fo 10194. Quote
Brickthus Posted April 3, 2009 Posted April 3, 2009 For remote control, you simply set the speed dial on the battery to full speed. Anything less would mean less power for the motors when you regulate the speed from the remote. The speed dial is there for uses where the user wants to regulate speed, but doesn't need to do it by remote control.As for having different motors, aren't options nice? Not quite right there! The C1 and C2 pins of the battery box will supply power for the speed set on the dial of the battery box, just as those pins on a 6-AA battery box supply a switched +/-9V. The +9V and 0V pins supply constant full battery power (of 7.4V), just as those pins on a 6-AA battery box supply 9V. The PF IR Receiver takes its power supply directly from the +9V and 0V pins and controls a motor independently of the C1 and C2 output from the battery box. No speed setting of the battery is necessary in order to use an IR receiver. A train starter set with a diesel or electric train might use just the battery, a wire and an 8866 train motor to give a variable speed but no remote control. A PF IR receiver may be added later, in which case the speed will be only from the IR receiver and the battery speed output would no longer be used. The Emerald Night pack has all the parts because the Emerald Night itself is aimed at AFOLs, who would also prefer remote control. Mark Quote
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