Two different types of chain link?

[steele]

Couldn't find this mentioned anywhere:

I just got my first chain links ever, and there's supposed to be 39 of them for the model. Box has 40 inside. But while assembling them, I found that a few are different, and lead to a visual "gap" between links. Assembling all the rest, I have 34 normal ones, and 6 "other" ones. The normal ones are all marked "10-19" or "3-19" or "14-19" etc. The other ones have a "C" in a circle. (not a copyright symbol, the C is in Lego's font).

Here's two photos I took--normal links on top, other ones on bottom. The "gap" between links is more apparent in the 2nd photo.

At first I was very worried that there might be a mistake, or that the links were longer in some way---but actually the length and function is identical---they just LOOK different.

Edited August 21, 2009 by steele

[The Green Brick Giant]

That is very very odd....

[KimT]

Perhaps TLG is cutting production costs by changing the design slightly and in doing so they save the amount of plastic used? We've seen this a lot lately.

Is the newer (plastic reduced) version more flexible? - It kinda looks like you can twist the chain link more.

[paul_delahaye]

Was this a brand new model or a fleabay purchase?

It's very rare to find a genuine Lego brick without the Lego logo on it? If it was ebay, begs the question whether they are a substitute chain link?

Paul

Edited August 21, 2009 by paul_delahaye

[KimT]

Oooh!

I missed that they don't have the LEGO logo on them.

[SuperCow]

I have checked a few chains on my models, all of them are the bigger gap (the 6 the poster mention)

one side it says © and the other side says lego. Some chainlinks say both sides lego

[Darth Legolas]

God, it took me 3 whole minutes to realize the difference. That's weird, but really if the 6 still function normally, I don't really care think you should worry.

No idea why though.

Edited August 21, 2009 by Darth Legolas

[Blakbird]

I just got my first chain links ever, and there's supposed to be 39 of them for the model. Box has 40 inside. But while assembling them, I found that a few are different, and lead to a visual "gap" between links. Assembling all the rest, I have 34 normal ones, and 6 "other" ones. The normal ones are all marked "10-19" or "3-19" or "14-19" etc. The other ones have a "C" in a circle. (not a copyright symbol, the C is in Lego's font).

I've actually noticed the same thing in a couple of recent sets, so it isn't just you. The ratios of "normal" parts to "new" were about the same. I'd guess they are in the midst of a minor part update and so we are getting both at the moment. They fit and move the same, so the differences are purely in the close details.

[Zerobricks]

Good find!

[Front]

Lego updates designs of elements when the costumers are not happy, or if the mould or part is a poor design.

I didn't know about this update, but I would suspect the new chain has a better function between the links. That might be less sideway slack (when bent "the wrong way"), or lower lenghtwise slack (when pulled). Looking at the pictures it looks like the links lock better together, so the chance of an accidential opening of the chain during operation is reduced.

Maybe if someone could test if there is a different feeling when opening the chain between two links.... ?

[Dryw Filtiarn]

The upper one is obviously stronger as there is more plastic on the sides. I suspect that the upper one is also the latest type. I have checked my own chainlinks (all old ones, from the 8880 and so on) and they also have the thinner sides like the lower 6. Also the fact that the upper ones have the numbered markings (mold number and cavity number) most likely means that there are of the past few years as this is now mostly a common feature on most of the parts Lego produces in order to easier trace errors in production back to the molds where the parts where produced in.

If the set you got them in is a new set, it might be there was still some old stock mixed into the new production. Otherwise if it's second hand it might be the 2 pieces of chain come from different sets in a different time period.

[steele]

It was a brand-new sealed set.

Newbie-to-chains question: Sometimes the chain won't "mesh" with the teeth properly (lays kind of on top of the teeth instead of down inbetween them), and the chain jerkily snaps back into position as the gears continue to revolve. Normal? (honestly I think it's just a function of the chain length of that model---39 links is too loose IMHO, but 38 is much too short/tight--it really needs to be 38.5 links for proper tension)

The "feeling" of linking and unlinking the 2 parts is identical. (though experimenting more tonight, I do think the "jumping" of the chain is more likely when the "bottom style" of link encounters the gear)

Edited August 23, 2009 by steele

[Dryw Filtiarn]

If the chains are too loose they tend to not roll around the gears entirely smoothly, I've noticed this before as well. In general this shouldn't be too much of a problem though :)

[Lupus74]

Maybe they result in a production error... so keep them separate because their value will go through the roof!

[Conchas]

You didn't mention, but guess you got them from the Dirty Bike (8291) set, released in 2008!?

I got to know other person also reporting the same issue, so it should be a part redesign for reinforcement purposes, and TLG got old and new stocks mixed.

Wonder however why was this reinforcement needed, after we have seen the old ones take to the limits into the LPE pneumatic maotors and reaching thounsands or RPMs.

Unless this also turns the production process more reliable and thus less expensive!?