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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Hi!

Well, um, you have those gaps in the secks, to allow supplies etc. being loaded or unloaded from the ships hold. Usually they are not covered with solid boards, but with grates, to allow fresh air and light to enter the lower decks, and powder smoke to exit them. in very bad weather they're covered with thin boards and sailcloth.

From Above, it looks something like this:

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Posted (edited)

I know what he means. They're the plates you hide your treasure under in most of the old fortress sets (eldorado, ITP, Rock Island Refuge, Etc)

Hi again...I am desperate...I was trying to build a figurehead but, I'm just not made for this XD

Is there anyone, who might help me with that?

Best Regards,

Capt. Harlowe

I MOCed some figureheads for you, it really depends on the shape of your prow:

lddscreenshot169.png

lddscreenshot177.png

Edited by Admiral M
Posted
I know what he means. They're the plates you hide your treasure under in most of the old fortress sets (eldorado, ITP, Rock Island Refuge, Etc)

4151.gif

Posted

Thanks.

Thats the Lego-Way to build them. The original grates on the Sips where unually not made diagonally Thus I d prefer not using these parts, and build something from normal bricks, flats or tiles.

Capt. Harlowe

Posted

Very nice ides..I can make good use of it on another project. But the "Holes" sre to big for my purpose...a minifig could break a leg XD.

The Originals were carefully dimensioned not to allow a mens shoe heel to fit the holes. *grin*

Captain Charles F. Harlowe

Posted

For the grates I'm using a brickbuild version in my HMS Victory MOC, which is an idea i got from a discussion with CGH (CBH)

Here is a picture with a single grate in the orlop (center right in the photo):

3328485606_1594fb9612.jpg

For the large pounder canons I've designed these brickbuild MOC guns:

3328485372_d0a03108c3.jpg

3328485430_12dd2d2289.jpg

Hope this helps you a bit in your build.

Kind regards,

Teddy

Posted

Thanks.

I was trying to snot the grates, but if I use tiles, I dont know how to make them into larger pieces.

The Gun is great!!! Too great for my humble frigate...space is limited. But I'll keep an Eye on you design, for possible later projects

Capt. Harlowe

Posted
Thanks.

I was trying to snot the grates, but if I use tiles, I dont know how to make them into larger pieces.

The Gun is great!!! Too great for my humble frigate...space is limited. But I'll keep an Eye on you design, for possible later projects

Capt. Harlowe

Hi Capt.Harlowe,

glad you like my Gun. :pir-classic:

The grate is actually SNOT. The decking consist of tiles.

The grate is build by 1x1 bricks 1x1 tiles and 1x? plates and tiles for the edge.

The size is such that it fits in the spacing left inbetween the tiling.

It can be lifted off.

Here is a link to a higher resolution photo.

Link to a higher res photo

Hope this clarifies it a bit.

Kind regards,

Teddy

Posted
The grate is actually SNOT. The decking consist of tiles.

The grate is build by 1x1 bricks 1x1 tiles and 1x? plates and tiles for the edge.

Ah, I see how you did it! You're helping me, too, though with what I don't know!

Of course, since Cpt. Harlowe's deck isn't going to be as thick as yours, Perhaps instead he should do a conventional grid instead of SNOT.

Posted
Ah, I see how you did it! You're helping me, too, though with what I don't know!

Of course, since Cpt. Harlowe's deck isn't going to be as thick as yours, Perhaps instead he should do a conventional grid instead of SNOT.

Hi Admiral M.

By snotting just 1 stud wide the grating is just 2.5 plates high. So a normal grid with studs on top is equal in hight (actually higher counting the lego logo on top of the studs).

So SNOTting can be done in a fairly thin manner.

Kind regards,

Teddy

Posted
Hi Admiral M.

By snotting just 1 stud wide the grating is just 2.5 plates high. So a normal grid with studs on top is equal in hight (actually higher counting the lego logo on top of the studs).

So SNOTting can be done in a fairly thin manner.

Kind regards,

Teddy

How are you getting along on your HMS Victory Teddy?

Posted
Hi Admiral M.

By snotting just 1 stud wide the grating is just 2.5 plates high. So a normal grid with studs on top is equal in hight (actually higher counting the lego logo on top of the studs).

So SNOTting can be done in a fairly thin manner.

Kind regards,

Teddy

Good point, though all that really matters is how thick his deck is. If it's only one plate deep, It really wouldn't make sence to use SNOT. Of course, anything else makes it look good, so we really would have to know the deck's depth.

Posted
How are you getting along on your HMS Victory Teddy?

Hi Joey Lock,

I'm still collecting bricks for the next phase.

Captain Green (Blue) Hair visited last weekend.

The plan was to build a bit on the HMS Victory MOC.

But, we started with a beer and ended drinking beer in the pub. :pir_laugh2:

Kind regards,

Teddy

Posted (edited)

As my ship will be a Waterlinemodel, and the Deck below the Gundeck will be half under Water, I am omitting it to allow for a stable foundation of the ship, allowing a dark "hole", tiled black, to allew looking through the grates, withour seeing anything. So the height of the deck doesn't matter.

If it were constructed as I planned earlier, with deckbeams, small beams in between and finally planking, it would be 3-5 plates thick.

I am, at the moment, prefering SNOT(where does this abbreviation come from?) decks, as they allow me to show the decks structure, and possible add a slight curvature to it, but tiles also look nice, and would allow the other decks to keep the same style as the rest of the ship, and still show the accurate technique uon they underside...

I could waterpaint the sides of the tiles black, or whipe the decks with watered down watercolour, to allow the pitch to be visible between the individual planks...But that is another use of non-Lego material...

However, I am uncertain of the colour for the decks. The light rey would match originals decks nicely, as they were rapidly bleached from sunlight, washing ans saltwater into a grey. I am afraid, that it might let the ship look boring, but on the other hand, the hull is painted red on the inside, brown on the outside, and detailed in black/darkgrey and decorated in gold/green...

Captain Harlowe

Edited by Captain Harlowe
Posted
But, we started with a beer and ended drinking beer in the pub. :pir_laugh2:

Kind regards,

Teddy

Haha, he told me about that. You drunk pirate scums...

The SNOT grate looks great, I use fences like Admiral Croissant mentioned. They are more detailed then SNOT in my opinion and can also be lifted off the construction.

Good luck on your ship Captain Harlowe, I think it will turn out great!

Posted

I'll be making the ''grates'' for the Prince Willim in that exact same way, as i still haven't figured out a better way to make 'm and i think they look quite good.

The holes are 2 plates big, so a minifig can't get caught in the holes. :pir-classic:

Captain Green (Blue) Hair visited last weekend.

The plan was to build a bit on the HMS Victory MOC.

But, we started with a beer and ended drinking beer in the pub. :pir_laugh2:

Kind regards,

Teddy

Yes, well that was equally as fun as building. :pir_laugh2: *burp*

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