UCS AT-AT

[cavegod]

parts arrived for the neck although i miss counted and i am 24 1x1 round plates short tsk back to bricklink!

anyway i built the neck as far as i could and it is one strong mother took my weight stood on it so should hold up to the atat head, i seem to have stopped the twisting as well so it will be able to look left and right a little bit. i might look into up and down as well but that would be a big re design.

[Future74]

Great news, cant wait to see it finalized

Make sure you post lots and lots of pictures when it's done.

I (and probably everyone else) want to see every detail!

Sorry to hear there's no interior, but it is understandable.

[Big Cam]

Cavegod I think the scale is juut perfect!!

[cavegod]

just wondering should i remove the print off the 10x10 dishes?

[Walter Kovacs]

The ones at the hip joints? I wouldn't. I certainly don't think they look out of place, by any means.

[sigpro]

I agree with Walter, they are ok.

If you could add any decorated dish for the "knees", it would add more detail. Try putting a 6x6 decorated dish on the knees.

[cavegod]

Ok.. well its still standing even with the head on! but it's got a case of brewers droop!

right well this is how i have attached the neck now, far simpler than before

with the head on it's heavy now!

as you can see the neck droops

the rear roof finished

and the at-at big behind so far

any ideas how to solve the droop?

i think this beast is pushing 7Kg now!!!!

now i've been building this for a month or so and it's been stood on the floor and looks big but when you mount the head it is just bloody huge!!

[-JD-]

*picks jaw up off floor and inserts back into skull*

That is stunning! So smooth but with lots of greebles, and the head looks super on the body! This is too much to take in...

And to think you have not finished it yet.

Edited March 16, 2010 by Jammiedodger714

[prateek]

Ok.. well its still standing even with the head on! but it's got a case of brewers droop!

Hallelujah! Congrats on being able to put the head on, but to take away the droop, you might want to shorten the neck, it looks a bit long.

[sigpro]

"but it's got a case of brewers droop"

Maybe you mean it is not fully stable, isn´it?

I remember that your ATAT´S legs were not fully poseable, I mean that the joint on the "hips" allow movement, but not in the "knees". How did you join the legs to the body? Maybe using a different system you can have it more stable.

Anyway it looks very good!!!

[cavegod]

Sigpro i meant that the At-At neck is sagging, it's a term used in england for other problems associated with alcohol if you know what i mean

As for stability it's very stable i will take quite a knock for it to fall and no i am not going to find out lol, but if it was stood on a table and the table got knocked it would stay standing.

i think i have solved the neck issue with a 2 x 2x4 plates as the gap between the bulkhead and the neck is slightly less than a plate so forcing a plate in the gap pushes the neck up.

[drdavewatford]

Does the neck even need to be that long ? I reckon you could shorten it to half its current length, which should help to address the 'neck droop' as well as make the model look a liitle more streamlined.

Fantastic effort, incidentally - awesome model !

Dr. D.

[cavegod]

i'm not sure on the neck length in this pic it looks about right

http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-c..._at-at_-074.jpg

i may shorten it by 1 stud though.

[drdavewatford]

i'm not sure on the neck length in this pic it looks about right

http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-c..._at-at_-074.jpg

i may shorten it by 1 stud though.

I think the neck looks longer on your model because it doesn't widen where it joins the head. Shortening it by a stud or two may help with the bending of the neck and the appearance. Be aware however that these suggestions are just "small print" as your construction is already so good anyway !

Dr. D.

[cavegod]

thanks for the praise but it is far from perfect, everyday i see something that bugs me and then spend hours wondering how to get it right, it's never ending!

[Palms]

thanks for the praise but it is far from perfect, everyday i see something that bugs me and then spend hours wondering how to get it right, it's never ending!

Keep at it someday (hopefully) You'll get it completely done and you will earn that lusted after "MOC expert" tag . On a related topic the first and only AT-AT I have ever built was when I first saw it in the move, It was built entirely out of white bricks, was 7inches tall, and had wheels on the feet

[gotoAndLego]

Is it just the neck that's drooping or is the weight causing the torso to angle downwards? Try running technic beams through the neck. Attach them with several pins inside the head and body. Look at the Republic Dropship/AT-OT for bracing ideas. If you add depth to the top of the neck it can rest on the technic beams as well.

Edited March 17, 2010 by gotoAndLego

[cavegod]

Is it just the neck that's drooping or is the weight causing the torso to angle downwards? Try running technic beams through the neck. Attach them with several pins inside the head and body. Look at the Republic Dropship/AT-OT for bracing ideas. If you add depth to the top of the neck it can rest on the technic beams as well.

its a mixture of weight causing the droop and also the fact that it is only held onto the body by 1 technic axle, i seem to have solved it i think so will post pictures later so you can compare.

[k_peek_2000]

i'm not sure on the neck length in this pic it looks about right

http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-c..._at-at_-074.jpg

i may shorten it by 1 stud though.

The neck in the picture is droppy too so your fine :D

[cavegod]

ok heres a few pictures showing the neck as it is now, i have shortened it by 1 stud/brick and also spaced it a little and also you can see in the pictures i have been trying different ways to brace the neck. i have also included a few skeletal shots and pics of the range of left right movement for the head.

ok the now almost level neck with no droop

showing the range of movement

and a few bare bones

comments welcome as always.

[cavegod]

anybody know of instructions for a snowpeeder to fit the scale of this Behemoth

[drdavewatford]

anybody know of instructions for a snowpeeder to fit the scale of this Behemoth

Good question.

The UCS Snowspeeder (10129) is clearly too big, but the smaller 4500 (from 2004) or 7130 (from 1999) might be about the right size. Or you could wait for the upcoming Summer Wampa set which also contains a snowspeeder !

Go to the following link and enter 4500 or 7130 into the "Quick finder" box for the instructions :

Official LEGO instructions

Cheers,

Dr. D.

Edited March 18, 2010 by drdavewatford

[sigpro]

Just increase the size of the snowspeeder of set 7666 and I assure you that you won´t be upset with the result.

This is the standar snowspeeder from set 7666

Greetings.

[cavegod]

i like the look of roguebanthers speeders on fbtb flikr site, they would fit right in!

Spent most of today redesigning the viewport on the head, it is now 7 wide instead of 6 and trust me it caused a lot of problems!

[cavegod]

i was just looking at the AT-AT this morning and i got thinking which is always bad, the head moves side to side, also there is a space either side in the neck so why don't i place a motor in th ebody and then by means of wizardry and black magic make so the head will move side to side via the motor?

So, what do i need in power functions stuff to make it happen?