Parts that just can't be taken apart without swearing loudly

[blueandwhite]

What about small plates (1 x 1, 1 x 2, 2 x 2) in the middle of a (base) plate?

I find that the 2x2 is actually the worst of the lot. I don't have too much trouble lifting up 1x1 or 1x2 plates, however 2x2 plates stuck on a larger plate or base plate can give even the most dedicated builder nightmares!

[RileyC]

I dont have a problem with those two examples. The pin one is pretty easy but the 1x1 square on the 1x1 round is a little bit harder.

[Whittleberry]

Jumpers in the middle of a large plate or baseplate are the WORST, the brick remover doesn't work with them and unlike tiles, there is no groove underneath to dig the tile up with.

Lots of tiles in the middle of baseplates suck too, the modular buildings all take ages to pull apart because of this and your fingers hurt afterwards.

EDIT: this would suck too:

Edited March 5, 2010 by Whittleberry

[Shadows]

Jumpers in the middle of a large plate or baseplate are the WORST, the brick remover doesn't work with them and unlike tiles, there is no groove underneath to dig the tile up with.

I just center a 1x2 brick over it and tilt while pressing down. Never had a problem getting one to pop out.

Lots of tiles in the middle of baseplates suck too, the modular buildings all take ages to pull apart because of this and your fingers hurt afterwards.

Yeah, it tempts you to flex the baseplate enough to make them tilt up a bit.

[Peppermint_M]

Allow me to add: Lego ball (basket or "soccer" Football) inside a Lego bucket. I ended up using a needle to push it out.

A lamp brick with any sort of single stud placed on the front can also be awkward at times.

[lightningtiger]

I find that the 2x2 is actually the worst of the lot. I don't have too much trouble lifting up 1x1 or 1x2 plates, however 2x2 plates stuck on a larger plate or base plate can give even the most dedicated builder nightmares!

I agree to a point with 'blueandwhite', but I really hate trying to seperate 2x1 plates stuck together , out comes my good old Gerber pocket tool to pry them apart !

I'm a conformist! everyone !

[Fugazi]

Here's another one for you:

The combination pin/axle stuck in a small gear... sometimes pushing with another axle helps, but the grip is very strong. Once again your teeth may be the best help! And maybe a pair of thick gloves to grip on that nasty gear!

[blueandwhite]

Here's another one for you:

The combination pin/axle stuck in a small gear... sometimes pushing with another axle helps, but the grip is very strong. Once again your teeth may be the best help! And maybe a pair of thick gloves to grip on that nasty gear!

WOW!

I've never had experience with that combination before, but it definitely looks like a nightmare in the making. Getting a good grip on the end of the technic pin and the gear seems difficult enough. I'll probably be avoiding this combination in the future.

[Sumendar]

Axles going through several axleholes in half-thick liftarms, the sticking power seems to rise through the roof once you get to four or more. Unfortunately, this seems to be a quite common construct in last decade's official models. In the worst cases, there's a 6+ long axle with one studlength for gripping and no room for pushing.

[CP5670]

The combination pin/axle stuck in a small gear... sometimes pushing with another axle helps, but the grip is very strong. Once again your teeth may be the best help! And maybe a pair of thick gloves to grip on that nasty gear!

This is actually not that bad today, and is another example of something that was much harder in the 80s. The 8t gear and axle pin were both made of ABS back then and had a much stronger grip than modern ones.

Getting a good grip on the end of the technic pin and the gear seems difficult enough.

You can pull off Technic pins in general by putting a half-width liftarm on them and then sticking a 1x4 antenna into them, which holds the liftarm in place. This was the method I had in mind for the 80s friction pins, but it also works well in other situations. I've used it recently for removing this piece from stud pins, an assembly used in several SP3 sets. These would be nearly impossible to remove without using any "tools" like this.

Edited March 5, 2010 by CP5670

[Modulex Guy]

The one on the right is quite hard to get off, especially since I don't have a brick remover. I have a round 1x1 plate get stuck inside a grill helm, I still can't get it out.

I've had that problem with helmets and pieces jammed into them.

Get yourself some needle nose pliers, it makes all the difference.

[Legostein]

Hello everybody!

Among the most difficult to separate bricks is the following combination in my eyes.

I don't like using mechanical tools for separation as they always cause dulls or scratches. These two are really hard to separate.

Cheers,

~ Christopher

[Rick]

Among the most difficult to separate bricks is the following combination in my eyes.

That only goes for the old type of handle base, which was way too tight. The new type is actually too loose in most situations. But still better than the old type.

[Legostein]

That only goes for the old type of handle base, which was way too tight. The new type is actually too loose in most situations. But still better than the old type.

Well, I have to disagree here, unfortunately. Even for the new ones it's difficult. I used new dark bluish gray 1x1 plate and a new light bluish gray lever base. I'll gladly send you an envelope with the two friends. Be sure to try it really with an 1x1 plate, not a larger one.

Cheers,

~ Christopher

[prateek]

EDIT: this would suck too:

I did that with two of my Rakshi torsos

[Legostein]

Hello!

Now that we have seen many hard to separate brick combinations, I think it's time for some approaches for easier disconnection. Here are some examples what usually works for me. These are my personal experiences, but maybe they are useful for someone else. My general rule is to let other bricks help you for separation.

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2 x X plate in the center of a baseplate:

For me it often helps when I stick an additional brick on it, and the begin slowly but hard pushing from the side. It also works for never more slippy bricks but better when you have an older brick.

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Jumper plates in the center of a baseplate:

It's important that you grab the single stud from all four sides.

This does not work because the grip is not strong engough:

But it works this way:

The turn the jumper plate for easy disconnection:

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Small gear on axle/pin:

Here we need a hole that is large enough for the entire pin to fall through but narrow enough for the gear to hold on top.

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Lever base on 1 x X plate:

These might sit very tightly and the main problem is that you can't get proper grip because they're both so small. We simply fix the plate and use something to turn the lever base. I recommend an older panel which already has scratches.

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Maybe someone will find these helpful.

Cheers,

~ Christopher

[lisqr]

Hello!

Now that we have seen many hard to separate brick combinations, I think it's time for some approaches for easier disconnection. Here are some examples what usually works for me. These are my personal experiences, but maybe they are useful for someone else. My general rule is to let other bricks help you for separation.

~ Christopher

Great tutorial. I really like the jumper plate idea. I have so much trouble with it. Thanks

[Fugazi]

Wow thanks Legostein, all very good tips! I will definitely keep this in mind for future use!

But now I'll have to work harder to find connections that you can't take apart so easily

[not-in-use-anymore]

One problem I have, is when you need to take out a plate in the middle of a sea of tiles and it won't come off with another brick(unless you take tiles off one by one until you can get an open space for the plate to go into, but it's just as annoying). When attaching a brick to a stuck peice to pull it off, it sometimes pushes it into the problem more. One time I got a broken staff top stuck inside an old space gun(not the magephone type), I at least still have the other part of the staff.

Edited March 6, 2010 by indianajones

[CP5670]

Now that we have seen many hard to separate brick combinations, I think it's time for some approaches for easier disconnection. default_classic.gif Here are some examples what usually works for me. These are my personal experiences, but maybe they are useful for someone else. default_classic.gif My general rule is to let other bricks help you for separation.

Great pictures and explanations. The last method is new to me, and looks like a clever idea. I've had trouble with the older version of those levers many times.

One problem I have, is when you need to take out a plate in the middle of a sea of tiles and it won't come off with another brick(unless you take tiles off one by one until you can get an open space for the plate to go into, but it's just as annoying). When attaching a brick to a stuck peice to pull it off, it sometimes pushes it into the problem more. One time I got a broken staff top stuck inside an old space gun(not the magephone type), I at least still have the other part of the staff.

Use a piece with a Technic hole for this. Technic holes have a stronger grip on studs than the normal stud receptacles on bricks/plates/etc. The 1x2 pin joiner works especially well.

You can also use a transparent 1x4 antenna in the same way. Only transparent ones are good for this, which are made of PC and have a tighter grip on studs than the ABS ones.

[Legostein]

Hello,

glad these hints are of some use. Thank you.

One problem I have, is when you need to take out a plate in the middle of a sea of tiles and it won't come off with another brick(unless you take tiles off one by one until you can get an open space for the plate to go into, but it's just as annoying). When attaching a brick to a stuck peice to pull it off, it sometimes pushes it into the problem more. One time I got a broken staff top stuck inside an old space gun(not the magephone type), I at least still have the other part of the staff.

Use a piece with a Technic hole for this. Technic holes have a stronger grip on studs than the normal stud receptacles on bricks/plates/etc. The 1x2 pin joiner works especially well.

Exactly. It's a similar method as for the jumper plate separation.

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Extracting a plate out of a tile ocean:

As CP5670 mentioned, the TECHNIC® has one of the strongest grips around studs.

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And now that we have these fine tiles on the baseplate...

Removing tiles from a baseplate: (works only for tiles with groove)

The halberd is your weapon of choice here. It fits perfectly into the groove. Move the halberd right into the groove of the tile. Then use lever action to remove it.

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These methods should safe your finger nails.

Cheers,

~ Christopher

[MacK]

Wow I really had no idea that you could use a Technic brick to remove plates; you seem to have a solution for everything that concerns bricks getting stuck together. It seems I'll have to leave a few new tools around my Lego work space.

[SpiderSpaceman]

A small tangentially related word of advice:

There are some connections that can't be undone. configurations of more specialized technic pieces, you can stick one piece on another, connect a 2L rod through that assembly in another direction, and there's no way to pull it out. I have a specific example with bionicle parts but generally, there are cases where you really shouldn't put particular parts together in the first place.

And never, never keep minifig trash cans and minifig racer helmets near each other. that's a tragic accident waiting to happen

Edited March 6, 2010 by SpiderSpaceman

[not-in-use-anymore]

I never knew you could do it with an axe, but like in my previous post, I think any thin peice can get under tiles. Sometimes to get racer helmets out of trashcans, I use a minifig and wiggle it until it comes out. The Technic axle problem has only happenned to me once, with an Exo-force gun. And the Technic 1x4 example doesn't always work for me, because sometimes it just pushes it in even more.

Edited March 7, 2010 by indianajones

[dr_spock]

Here's another one for you:

The combination pin/axle stuck in a small gear... sometimes pushing with another axle helps, but the grip is very strong. Once again your teeth may be the best help! And maybe a pair of thick gloves to grip on that nasty gear!

I have used an axle to push out pins like that. The trick is to line up the axle and have a good grip on the gear and push down with axle on the table. Yeah, the gear can dig into your fingertips. No pain, no gain goes with Lego too.