not-in-use-anymore Posted March 30, 2010 Posted March 30, 2010 I knew there was something wrong with my question earlier, because I already knew how to get plates out of a sea of tiles. What I should have asked is: How can I take tiles out of a sea of tiles without taking all of them out? I've tried other bricks, my fingers, a hammer(not really ), my mind... Quote
SlyOwl Posted March 30, 2010 Posted March 30, 2010 Razor blade as a lever? Other than that, can't help you, unless you've got an industrial-strength vacuum pump at home! Quote
Fugazi Posted March 30, 2010 Author Posted March 30, 2010 Razor blade as a lever?Other than that, can't help you, unless you've got an industrial-strength vacuum pump at home! Or just pre-drill your base plates so that you can push from beneath Actually, you probably should leave a few gaps in your 'sea of tiles' until you're sure of the final position of everything. There's no easy way out of this one! Quote
Big Cam Posted March 30, 2010 Posted March 30, 2010 Awesome tips Legostein, there are a few in there I had not thought of and will be most useful. Quote
Matija Posted March 30, 2010 Posted March 30, 2010 Any sort of stacking plates. Hm... you do know about the brick separator, right? Or did I misunderstand your problem? Quote
not-in-use-anymore Posted March 31, 2010 Posted March 31, 2010 Nevermind... A stack of plates shouldn't be too hard if you have a seperator. Quote
CMP Posted March 31, 2010 Posted March 31, 2010 Light Cover with Internal Bar / Bionicle Barraki Eye inside a Cone 1 x 1 or a Technic pin. Quote
not-in-use-anymore Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 I think there was something on the last page or so that had to do with a 1x2 handle piece. Quote
SheepEater Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 I could use pliers but it would damage the plastic. Quote
LegoCityMann Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 I could use pliers but it would damage the plastic. You should be able to use one of these with ease. They come in almost any Lego Game these days. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=630-3 ~LCM Quote
SheepEater Posted June 13, 2012 Posted June 13, 2012 Well, I don't have that new separator but thanks anyway, I managed to apply the same type of pressure by building myself a "tool" consisting of three angled connectors joined by a long pin, with a 4L axle in the middle connector. Quote
Phoxtane Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 I managed to take a Jack-Stone era rim that only has the one pin hole for mounting to the vehicle frame and stick one of the Technic pins that's designed to put plates on Technic beams - that weird 1.5 unit long piece. Took me six years to figure out that my teeth could do the job... Quote
LEGO Historian Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Wow... thanks for all the tips folks.... From 1965 (when they were introduced) until the early 1970s ALL TILES (back then there were only 1x1, 1x2 and 2x2) were like the jumper plates... there was no lip at their base, unlike those since circa 1974... So those were some of the worst pieces to take apart.... It was at some point in the early 1970s that TLG realized that they were not easy to remove... and if we have such problems with tiles and plates today.... image what it was like back then for children to remove them.... ARRGG!! ________________________________ On the flip side of the hardest pieces to take apart... how about the easiest to take apart?? From an "older" perspective... I would definitely say the 1x1 round bricks without the tapered base (1955-65). If you stacked them up... say 10 high.... they would not stay together... unless there was no wind and no one sneezed!! That's one reason why they were remodeled in 1966 to the tapered base 1x1 rounds (solid stud). Quote
Runamuck Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Does anyone have any advice on how to get a stuck crash helmet out of a trash can? Unfortunately it’s the round part that is facing upwards, so there isn’t any good surface to get a grip on. Quote
JackJonespaw Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Does anyone have any advice on how to get a stuck crash helmet out of a trash can? Unfortunately it’s the round part that is facing upwards, so there isn’t any good surface to get a grip on. When that sort of thing happens to me, I use a Lego spear. It's the thinnest piece I know. If there's space, just try to wedge the spear in there and pull upwards at an angle. That should turn it so you can see the hole. Quote
Fugazi Posted July 5, 2012 Author Posted July 5, 2012 Failing that, you might need to decide on which part you value more and drill the other one to push/pull it apart. Quote
Lego Otaku Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 LXF file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Lego-0taku/misc/impossible_2.lxf Once you put that together, you can spend the next 100 years swearing every known foul word in over 600 languages, you will not be able to take it apart without destroying a piece. Quote
Clone OPatra Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Here's another that I once (stupidly) did, and I think is impossible to undo: One of these: Line this up in the little section for it, in front of the hole in the back of the above piece: But instead of pushing in a 3L axle as you are supposed to do, push in a 2L: And good luck getting that one out. Quote
prateek Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Here's another that I once (stupidly) did, and I think is impossible to undo: I did that too! Quote
Vindicare Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 That 1x1 plate on top the 1x1 round...pure evil. Quote
Aanchir Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) LXF file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Lego-0taku/misc/impossible_2.lxf Once you put that together, you can spend the next 100 years swearing every known foul word in over 600 languages, you will not be able to take it apart without destroying a piece. Incidentally, the one on the left could potentially be taken apart without necessarily having to destroy a piece... since the Technic bushings have grooves in them, you could carefully use a hobby knife to slowly push the axles out of the structure to the point where they can be pulled out by hand. The axle would likely be scratched, but still usable. My dad had to resort to a similar tactic to remove an axle which became lodged in a BIONICLE part much like the gear in Clone O'Patra's example above, though a bit more complex Specifically, I attached a Y-joint to one of the back holes of a Toa Hordika torso using a blue Technic pin/axle, then foolishly locked it in place using a 2M Technic axle through one of the shoulder holes. Since there was still a 1/2M gap between the Y-joint and the shoulder hole, my dad was able to force the axle out and no pieces were lost. The gap in a Technic bushing is smaller and would be a lot more fiddly to exploit in this way, but I believe it could be done. Edited July 5, 2012 by Aanchir Quote
Phoxtane Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 Maybe a screw grabber would work? It's got three curved wires that spread out as you push on the top. You could be able to get at the the grooves in a 2L axle pin with that. Quote
Runamuck Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 Thanks for the tips. I tried the spear thing and it at least made the helmet move about more, which helped me eventually shake the helmet out of the garbage can. Quote
JackJonespaw Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 LXF file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Lego-0taku/misc/impossible_2.lxf Once you put that together, you can spend the next 100 years swearing every known foul word in over 600 languages, you will not be able to take it apart without destroying a piece. Wow. How did you manage to make that? Here's another that I once (stupidly) did, and I think is impossible to undo: One of these: Line this up in the little section for it, in front of the hole in the back of the above piece: But instead of pushing in a 3L axle as you are supposed to do, push in a 2L: And good luck getting that one out. Good, I'm not the only one! I try once every week or so - for about seven years. Quote
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