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Posted

I knew there was something wrong with my question earlier, because I already knew how to get plates out of a sea of tiles. What I should have asked is: How can I take tiles out of a sea of tiles without taking all of them out? I've tried other bricks, my fingers, a hammer(not really :grin: ), my mind...

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Posted
Razor blade as a lever?

Other than that, can't help you, unless you've got an industrial-strength vacuum pump at home!

Or just pre-drill your base plates so that you can push from beneath :grin:

Actually, you probably should leave a few gaps in your 'sea of tiles' until you're sure of the final position of everything. There's no easy way out of this one!

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Well, I don't have that new separator but thanks anyway, I managed to apply the same type of pressure by building myself a "tool" consisting of three angled connectors joined by a long pin, with a 4L axle in the middle connector.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I managed to take a Jack-Stone era rim that only has the one pin hole for mounting to the vehicle frame and stick one of the Technic pins that's designed to put plates on Technic beams - that weird 1.5 unit long piece. Took me six years to figure out that my teeth could do the job...

Posted

Wow... thanks for all the tips folks....

From 1965 (when they were introduced) until the early 1970s ALL TILES (back then there were only 1x1, 1x2 and 2x2) were like the jumper plates... there was no lip at their base, unlike those since circa 1974...

So those were some of the worst pieces to take apart.... default_hmpf.gif

It was at some point in the early 1970s that TLG realized that they were not easy to remove... and if we have such problems with tiles and plates today.... image what it was like back then for children to remove them.... ARRGG!!default_wacko.gif

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On the flip side of the hardest pieces to take apart... how about the easiest to take apart??

From an "older" perspective... I would definitely say the 1x1 round bricks without the tapered base (1955-65). If you stacked them up... say 10 high.... they would not stay together... unless there was no wind and no one sneezed!!

That's one reason why they were remodeled in 1966 to the tapered base 1x1 rounds (solid stud).

Posted

Does anyone have any advice on how to get a stuck crash helmet out of a trash can? Unfortunately it’s the round part that is facing upwards, so there isn’t any good surface to get a grip on.

Posted

Does anyone have any advice on how to get a stuck crash helmet out of a trash can? Unfortunately it’s the round part that is facing upwards, so there isn’t any good surface to get a grip on.

When that sort of thing happens to me, I use a Lego spear. It's the thinnest piece I know. If there's space, just try to wedge the spear in there and pull upwards at an angle. That should turn it so you can see the hole.

Posted

Failing that, you might need to decide on which part you value more and drill the other one to push/pull it apart. :look:

Posted

Here's another that I once (stupidly) did, and I think is impossible to undo:

One of these:

44135.jpg?1

Line this up in the little section for it, in front of the hole in the back of the above piece:

32270.jpg?0

But instead of pushing in a 3L axle as you are supposed to do, push in a 2L:

32062.jpg?0

And good luck getting that one out.

Posted (edited)

LXF file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Lego-0taku/misc/impossible_2.lxf

Once you put that together, you can spend the next 100 years swearing every known foul word in over 600 languages, you will not be able to take it apart without destroying a piece.

Incidentally, the one on the left could potentially be taken apart without necessarily having to destroy a piece... since the Technic bushings have grooves in them, you could carefully use a hobby knife to slowly push the axles out of the structure to the point where they can be pulled out by hand. The axle would likely be scratched, but still usable.

My dad had to resort to a similar tactic to remove an axle which became lodged in a BIONICLE part much like the gear in Clone O'Patra's example above, though a bit more complex Specifically, I attached a Y-joint to one of the back holes of a Toa Hordika torso using a blue Technic pin/axle, then foolishly locked it in place using a 2M Technic axle through one of the shoulder holes. Since there was still a 1/2M gap between the Y-joint and the shoulder hole, my dad was able to force the axle out and no pieces were lost. The gap in a Technic bushing is smaller and would be a lot more fiddly to exploit in this way, but I believe it could be done.

Edited by Aanchir
Posted

Maybe a screw grabber would work? It's got three curved wires that spread out as you push on the top. You could be able to get at the the grooves in a 2L axle pin with that.

screw_grabber_1.jpg

Posted

Thanks for the tips. I tried the spear thing and it at least made the helmet move about more, which helped me eventually shake the helmet out of the garbage can.

Posted

impossible_2.jpg

LXF file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Lego-0taku/misc/impossible_2.lxf

Once you put that together, you can spend the next 100 years swearing every known foul word in over 600 languages, you will not be able to take it apart without destroying a piece.

Wow. How did you manage to make that?

Here's another that I once (stupidly) did, and I think is impossible to undo:

One of these:

44135.jpg?1

Line this up in the little section for it, in front of the hole in the back of the above piece:

32270.jpg?0

But instead of pushing in a 3L axle as you are supposed to do, push in a 2L:

32062.jpg?0

And good luck getting that one out.

Good, I'm not the only one! :laugh: I try once every week or so - for about seven years.

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