DarkSurgeXL Posted April 3, 2012 Posted April 3, 2012 The Unimog U400 is one of my favorite Technic sets after the 8297 Off roader. I actually own 2 sets by a strange circumstances, and it is wonderful! Quote
Crtlego Posted April 3, 2012 Posted April 3, 2012 The Unimog U400 is one of my favorite Technic sets after the 8297 Off roader. I actually own 2 sets by a strange circumstances, and it is wonderful! Haha I wish I could be under those same circumstances.. I still can't get around to buying one in the first place. Quote
Bigfoot Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 Is there a fix for the unimog tilting slightly to the left due to the weight of the battery box. I don't see where else I could put the BB. Is it possible to move it towards the centre a bit or maybe add some weight to the other side. Quote
DLuders Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 @ Bigfoot: On this TechnicBRICKS topic, Fernando Correia discussed the "Panhard Rod" suspension issue that causes the body to lean by 1/2 stud. Do a "CTL-F" key combination to search for the term "Panhard" to find it in the middle of that LONG article. He wrote, "Still related with the usage of the Panhard rod in this model, there is a discussion running at EB, regarding a potential flaw or a mistake in the building instructions. It happens that the front and rear axles are built slightly different, leading to a small misalignment on the chassis, what may eventually avoid the model to drive perfectly straight, if it gets motorized. In fact it is just an half stud misalignment, but it can be clearly seen on the photo bellow. There you can see the difference from the axle 3 with stud, in dark tan. The stud is totally visible on the left side but almost hidden on the right side. The difference is also visible from the towballs present on the top of the portal axles, but not so easy to realize from the photo below... Obviously this can be seen better, on the real model. "The difference occurs because the lower end of the Panhard rod, is connected to the axles in two different ways or using two different parts. A perpendicular axlehole and pin connector (6536) on the Unimog rear axle (left photo) and a perpendicular double axlehole and pin connector (32291) on the front axle (right photo). While the correct way seems to be the one used for the rear side, the front method causes an half stud offset to the live axle making it not straight. At first sight this seems to be an obvious mistake, but until further confirmation there is still a possibility for this to be an intentional design, to compensate some potential dynamics of this model. "If it confirms to be a mistake [which it HAS NOT], it is one of easy resolution. You just need to replace the connector on the front with the correct one." Quote
dr_spock Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 Haha I wish I could be under those same circumstances.. I still can't get around to buying one in the first place. You could try to win one through the contest here. It's really worth getting if you have the opportunity. Quote
AVCampos Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) What Bigfoot is referring to is the Unimog's tendency to tilt to one side because of the weight of the battery box, not the asymmetry caused by the front Panhard rod. Still, regarding the rod, it is intentional, as is explained here. Edited April 6, 2012 by AVCampos Quote
tripletschiee Posted May 9, 2012 Posted May 9, 2012 Here are some nice pictures of various Unimogs. Have fun! Regards, Gerhard Quote
VictorB Posted October 13, 2012 Posted October 13, 2012 I made a crewcab trucktrial unimog U400 :) Quote
Gene Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 My first build caused me some confusion on the front chassis. There was no mentioning about the overall reasons why some would mod it rather a diagram from TLG explaining how it work and why 8110 is build this way. The Panhard Rod has been discussed many times before and following by the book, I found myself a victim for hours of checking back, rebuilding, fault searching and finally decided to build it my on way which was a solution found out by many fans: Here's my reasons: - the overall symmetrical looking with the body shell. (Not slanted) - the exposure from both front tires against the fender look better. - the holding angle (front view) of the front suspension are better looking. (\ / instead of \ |) With the Panhard Rod issue, the Front Suspension also gotten my attention: Never able the compress smoothly without the cab secure back to the chassis. Some holding power must be applied to the top mount of the suspension. No issue with the rear suspension. - I relocate the suspension mounting 1 stud toward the body at least to make the linkage of the suspension rod better. This is to prevent the rod to bend away from the body when you push down the suspension. We should apply force at different angle to make sure the compression is smooth and I don't remember there's any discussion on the front suspension. Quote
efferman Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 why not remove the panhard rod and make it like this? the advantage is that the suspension is every time in the middle of the chassis chassis003 von efferman auf Flickr Quote
Gene Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 Thanks for the effort efferman. Will definately give a try, but I'm working on 9398 before coming back to 8110 and probably making it RC. Quote
Balrog Posted October 17, 2012 Posted October 17, 2012 I am not sure, if this has been mentionend before, but has anyone noticed, that the two lower steering liftarms work themselves out of the red pins with bushing? Not, that this is a real problem, but it is strange. Additionaly, I want to see, if I can reinforce the frame structure a bit more. When there is some pressure in the middle of the structure, the whole chassis tend to bend instead of compressing the springs. Next up: Attachments and RC via NXT. Quote
therealjustin Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 Does anyone know the number of parts shared between the cargo bed and the front plow? I'd like to keep the bed intact while also displaying it with the plow attachment. I know the blue/gray panels are shared and it seems like a few others are as well and because I have no spare parts, they will have to come from Bricklink. Quote
grum64 Posted November 14, 2012 Posted November 14, 2012 My unimig is leaning to the left, probably because of the heavy battery box. And I really wish that I had some air tanks, caus it is pretty anyoing that you need to control the pump all the time, and when you are lifting something heavy it takes forever to raise the boom. Hi I used this as a less than elegant solution to the 'leaning left' problem. As I said, it's not elegant but it does the job. Grum Quote
TinkerBrick Posted November 15, 2012 Posted November 15, 2012 @ grum64 Your solution is not to bad after all. The battery box looks like an integrated tool box. Quote
therealjustin Posted November 18, 2012 Posted November 18, 2012 (edited) Does anyone know the number of parts shared between the cargo bed and the front plow? I'd like to keep the bed intact while also displaying it with the plow attachment. I know the blue/gray panels are shared and it seems like a few others are as well and because I have no spare parts, they will have to come from Bricklink. Anyone know what parts are needed in order to build the plow while keeping the cargo bed? Edited November 18, 2012 by therealjustin Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted November 18, 2012 Posted November 18, 2012 Just build the plough and see what parts you got left over. Then check the parts you need to build the cargobed and order them on BL... Quote
marv Posted November 18, 2012 Posted November 18, 2012 (edited) Anyone know what parts are needed in order to build the plow while keeping the cargo bed? I found this list somewhere in the forum. Regards marv Edited November 18, 2012 by marv Quote
DLuders Posted February 2, 2013 Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) K what does TLG stand for???? The Lego Group Edited February 2, 2013 by DLuders Quote
Kumbbl Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 I used this as a less than elegant solution to the 'leaning left' problem. As I said, it's not elegant but it does the job. quite the contrary - in my humble opinion your solution is very clever and solves one of the most annoying drawbacks of the unimog in an elegant manner... Quote
Jim Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 True! I would have to agree with that. It solves a problem and since the color of the battery box matches the panels, it's not really sticking out Quote
Eigenbroetler Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 I have made the same mod, except i have 2 battery packs behind the cab and i wider and longer bed on my 6x6 unimog one battery pack is for driving (2XL) and steering (1M) the other battery pack is for dual pumps (1M) and pto (1M), and i have added one airtank for more playability to the crane, Quote
Pat-Ard Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 @Eigenbroetler: Do you have any pictures of your mod? Could you post them? Pat Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.