Zerobricks Posted January 30, 2011 Posted January 30, 2011 After tearing up my 8043, i noticed there is another friction pin, I added picture to show it: Whats the point of the blue cross pin and this gray pin's frictions? I am quite baffled... Quote
Chrizzle Posted January 30, 2011 Posted January 30, 2011 yeah, i noticed this some time ago... when i became my 8043 first, i was disappointed because it wasn't able to operate the switch function properly because of too much friction in my opinion... so what i did is rebuilt the whole thing...change the blue friction pin into the sand-colored frictionless pin and geared down the switch function by using the bevel gears! now it works very nicely! Quote
BrickDemon Posted January 30, 2011 Posted January 30, 2011 Some say lego did it on purpose but my 8043 works a lot better with the frictionless parts..! Quote
Anio Posted January 30, 2011 Posted January 30, 2011 Very well seen Zblj ! I just changed that part on my model. I'm sure it will work better now. I wonder how a designer can make such a mistake. O_o (cause yes, it is definitely a mistake). Quote
imajor Posted January 30, 2011 Posted January 30, 2011 I mentioned it earlier (here), but I still don't think it is a mistake. There is no chance that the designer didn't notice it. Maybe without this friction the switch is more likely to jump back to neutral? Quote
BrickDemon Posted January 31, 2011 Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) Maybe without this friction the switch is more likely to jump back to neutral? You could be right. but I thought that these were for that. Edited January 31, 2011 by BrickDemon Quote
Out of Sight Posted January 31, 2011 Posted January 31, 2011 Despite this, I'm probably one of very few people who have never considered tearing a built Technic set or any Lego for that matter , so that friction pin and the previously discussed blue axle pin are still there. I have zero issues on shifting however. I'm running rechargeable Ni-MH batteries, so I believe their high discharge rate can extract serious amount of torque from the shifting motor compared to alkalines. A blip of the control stick is all I need to make successive shifts lock to lock. However it's still unclear whether it's a mistake or not.. Quote
DarkShadow73 Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Ironic, I just posted this as a new topic and I'm having a heck of a time getting the clutch to engage one lock to another on one lever press. Maybe I'll try these rechargeable Ni-MH batteries. Maybe this is a stupid question and it probably is, but where can you buy these types of batteries. I definitely don't want to pay Lego S@H prices for their rechargeable battery box. Radio Shack? Walmart? I live in the USA if that helps. Despite this, I'm probably one of very few people who have never considered tearing a built Technic set or any Lego for that matter , so that friction pin and the previously discussed blue axle pin are still there. I have zero issues on shifting however. I'm running rechargeable Ni-MH batteries, so I believe their high discharge rate can extract serious amount of torque from the shifting motor compared to alkalines. A blip of the control stick is all I need to make successive shifts lock to lock. However it's still unclear whether it's a mistake or not.. Quote
dr_spock Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Ironic, I just posted this as a new topic and I'm having a heck of a time getting the clutch to engage one lock to another on one lever press. Maybe I'll try these rechargeable Ni-MH batteries. Maybe this is a stupid question and it probably is, but where can you buy these types of batteries. I definitely don't want to pay Lego S@H prices for their rechargeable battery box. Radio Shack? Walmart? I live in the USA if that helps. You can buy rechargeable NiMH batteries and the charger practically any where. Walmart, Target, Best Buy, Radio Shack, etc. I use them in my 8043 too. Quote
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