Switching and stop lights with the new PFs?

[MurkyMajare]

Hello,

Is it possible at all to create a system for having red / green lights along the track which stops the PF (or what ever the new train system is called) automatically?

Or is that only the 12v era?

Ditto on remotly changing the direction of the switching tracks.

Thanks

[JopieK]

Hello,

Is it possible at all to create a system for having red / green lights along the track which stops the PF (or what ever the new train system is called) automatically?

Or is that only the 12v era?

Ditto on remotly changing the direction of the switching tracks.

Thanks

I have a LEGuanO that takes care of that. If you fit the stoplight with an extra LED for IR you can control your trains with it.

[Frankie Roberto]

Is it possible at all to create a system for having red / green lights along the track which stops the PF (or what ever the new train system is called) automatically?

Or is that only the 12v era?

But stopping the trains (or not, and letting them crash) is half the fun! :-)

That said, it might be fun to create a remote-controlled red / green light signal. You'd have to use two of the PF lights though (as the two LEDs on each one can't be controlled separately). Adding the colours can be done by using a 1x1 trans circular plate. If you wanted the lights to change automatically, you could rig up a NXT controller with a sensor to detect when the train has passed.

Ditto on remotly changing the direction of the switching tracks.

There's some instructions for building a motorised switching track (or 'points') here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/whoward69/sets/72157621512518259/with/3731607999/ - it's relatively straightforward to follow. You'll need a small PF motor and a few technic components (and a spare PF battery pack and IR receiver).

[JopieK]

My LEGO Arduino (LEGuanO) has IR on board so you don't need any PF parts. My first prototype looks like this:

it can actually send and/or receive PF compatible signals:

This is the prototype of my LEGuanO (I have converted this idea into professionally produced circuit boards). To the left the IR receiver (for use with LEGO IR remotes) and to the right in the middle (the white LED) the IR sender.

One can also of source add detection (reed sensor that reacts on magnets and/or a light sensor).

[soc399]

There's some instructions for building a motorised switching track (or 'points') here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/whoward69/sets/72157621512518259/with/3731607999/ - it's relatively straightforward to follow. You'll need a small PF motor and a few technic components (and a spare PF battery pack and IR receiver).

I've used that design, and it works really well. Just attach one of the basic PF remotes to the side of your train remote, then tune the switches to their own channel. Remote switching is lots of fun.

[marsupilami]

What's the maximum number of PF IR channels again?

[AussieJimbo]

4 settings with 2 channels each.

:classic:

[marsupilami]

Thanks, I really need to get myself some PF stuff. I'd like to try the remote switching, I'm already working on the signalling :-)

[AndyC]

It's certainly possible, though it's not without numerous challenges.

If you want to start/stop trains you need some sort of IR control (which then leads to the problem of how you know which channel the approaching train is on) or you need some brains within the train itself (NXT brick?). There was a video recently of someone who did something a bit like this by putting colour coded tiles into the track and using a colour sensor so that the train could appear to act intelligently based upon what it saw, including changing speed and stopping at stations.

Remote switching is probably easier, since you can do all the thinking part! With most layout's you could probably get away with putting all switches on a single IR channel, depending to some extent on how close together the switches are. Or you could run long PF extension cables to PF pole switches rather than use IR. There are various designs for a bit of technic mechanics to motorize the actual switches, so that bit should be fairly easy.