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Posted

Thanks for the review, Blakbird!

I picked up the new 8069 Backhoe Loader earlier today. I think it's a great mid-sized model, but now I'm craving the Supercar more than ever. This is arguably the best looking supercar yet (save for that atrocious rear end) and the functionality is logical and adequately complex. TLC really needs to do a better job of thinking out what sets to include power functions with. While the motor seems to increase the 'bling' factor on this set, it isn't really necessary and would have been much more appreciated in a different model. The pros still far outweigh the cons with this model, so I'm extremely happy that TLC listened to our requests and gave us this excellent set!

Posted

This video drives me crazy....

All the functions are flashing by. Wish TLG had made it a bit slower or concentrated on the functions! :wacko:

Noted. I tend to agree, and I'll try to have them slowed down a bit for future product animations.

- Binkmeister, LEGO TECHNIC webmaster

Posted (edited)

If the 8070 set has an "ugly butt" :blush: , have others tried to make it more "pretty"? If built according to the instructions, the A-model looks like this (from Blakbird's Brickshelf gallery):

dsc_3262.jpg

The B-model seems to have a more acceptable "rear end":

8070_prod5.jpg

So far, Meatman has this solution below to improve the looks of the A-model:

functions102_JPG_w560h352.jpg

It seems that since the 8070 does not actually DRIVE ITSELF, it could have simply had the new, small 88000 "Power Functions AAA Battery Box" (which costs $12.99 on Shop.Lego.com). There is enough power for the doors, rear wing, etc., and the battery box could have been hidden better. Perhaps The Lego Group (TLG) needed to keep the price of the 8070 set below a certain amount, since the larger 8881 "Power Functions Battery Box" costs a lot less ($6.99 on Shop.Lego.com).

If this Lego Technic Supercar set was made for AFOLs (as Blakbird says), maybe TLG knows that many AFOLs will MODIFY the set with their own spare parts. What do you think?

88000-1.jpg8881-1.jpg

Edited by DLuders
Posted

It looks like the animators skimped on the gear animations again.

First we see the left-door engaged by the gear lever.

The camera then shows a close up of the right-door and engine-hood gear trains moving.

Neither of these gear trains should be moving because it is the LEFT-DOOR that is engaged.

Next the right-door is shown opening, then the right-door is quickly engaged and the left-door opens.

Clearly the gear lever was just moved in the wrong direction. Taking this mistake into account, there are still two unrelated mistakes:

The first gear in the right-door gear train is visibly stationary but the gear touching it is moving.

The first gear in the engine-hood gear train is moving, but its driving ring is visibly disengaged.

I guess this explains why they flash through the functions in 10 seconds.

Posted

So far, Meatman has this solution below to improve the looks of the A-model:

functions102_JPG_w560h352.jpg

I think it was Crowkillers that came up with that solution last year. :wink:

Also, I have built the Hot Rod, and while it is a decent B-model, it is kind of flimsy. Also in the rear end they used a #1 connector with a black pin to connect the flex axle, but there are actually 2 #6 connectors left over that could have been used instead that look much better. Very strange.

Posted

Anyone build the B-model yet? I did that first (took quite a bit of the day!) and have a few thoughts...

1. The motions on mine are very jerky, both the doors and roof. That normal or is mine being stiff?

2. I always find the compromises they make in B-models interesting. For example, in this set, one pin in the convertable roof is a blue axlepin instead of the tan frictionless like the rest of the roof.

3. What's up with the suspension? The car is nice and low like it should be, but then they should have left the suspension out since it bottoms out so easily. The front wheels have enough travel to come up a full two studs above the ground!

4. I LOVE the nice lines they made here, especially the gentle angles of the sides.

Posted

Wow, I think a first for me. Opened the box, built the B-model, AND took it all apart in one day!

Very rare to have that much time to play... I suspect that building the main model will take a few days at my usual pace :)

Posted

Ok, my fingers hurt. Built the main model today... so now I've built it in both versions plus taken it apart once in the span of 36 hours. Gonna have blisters after that!

Love the car, but I agree, it should have a switch for control rather than relying on the battery box switch.

Posted

This may seem like kind of cheesy solution...

I actually piggybacked another small motor to the original motor installed in my wife's 8070 set and then mounted it in the rear and actually work the functions with the 2nd motor powering the original motor by turning a 20 tooth double bevel gear in the second motor...

I simply refuse to buy batteries... :grin:

Posted

So you're saying you're turning a knob by hand that's attached to the second motor, making it work as a generator to power the original motor? Interesting...

I just have one battery box that I move between models as needed when I want ot play with them. Most models these days have pretty easily accessible battery box locations, so it's not much of a hassle. I think I've got like 5 of these battery boxes still in bags cause I never open them :)

Posted

Ok, my fingers hurt. Built the main model today... so now I've built it in both versions plus taken it apart once in the span of 36 hours. Gonna have blisters after that!

Love the car, but I agree, it should have a switch for control rather than relying on the battery box switch.

I hate blisters, so much that I've made a little tool consists of 2 liftarms, some pins and 32209 to use as a pin/axle pusher. I know a regular axle works just as well but that hurts your hands after disassembling a whole model...

Posted

Ok, my fingers hurt. Built the main model today... so now I've built it in both versions plus taken it apart once in the span of 36 hours. Gonna have blisters after that!

Based on the fact that not only have I disassembled and rebuilt every single Technic set in the last year (as well as a bunch of MOCs) but I also play guitar, I no longer have any feeling left in my fingertips at all. While building 8070 I noticed that there was a stain on one of the parts so I looked down and noticed that I was actually bleeding. That was awesome. I've decided that true dedication to Technic can only be reached when you build until you bleed.

On a side note, my blood smells kind of like ABS.

Posted

Paul, does that really work? Could that damage the motor over time? Could you post up some pictures of how you dd this. Thanks.

Here is the thing, it may possibly ruin the motor that you are cranking over time, but if a $6 motor lasts a few years, I really don't see what the big deal is. Spinning a spindle isn't what primarily makes an electric motor go bad...

A simple crank type knob could easily be installed into this set with minimal modification...

Posted

Hello, I just registered here so I could post my two cents about this set. First, excellent review, I think it hits a lot of good points.

I agree, the rear end is ugly. But I can live with it. Maybe I'll try to change it similar to Crowkillers' design, but it's not imperative.

What really bothered me was how pointless the functions were. So, I disconnected the doors from the worm gear, and using an axle pin, made them open only by hand (I used a half pin underneath to latch the doors when closed).

The next thing that I did was make the motor drive the wheels. Re-purposing the now unused functions, I figured out where I would need to add a gear to have the drive shaft driven. After about an hour, I figured it out, and had the car back together. So now, first gear does nothing, second gear drives the rear wheels, third gear the wing, fourth the hood, like normal. The cool thing is, when the battery box is on, the lego engine block is cranking like it's idling.

My next plan is to change the hood so it opens the other direction and maybe add hood pins of some sort. This car reminds me of a muscle car, and I think hood pins are fitting. Also, I want to try to make the headlights LEDs that come on with the battery box.

The biggest complaint with the set is actually a good thing. It is so well built and solid, the chassis, that it's hard to modify it without taking the entire thing apart.

Posted

What really bothered me was how pointless the functions were. So, I disconnected the doors from the worm gear, and using an axle pin, made them open only by hand (I used a half pin underneath to latch the doors when closed).

The next thing that I did was make the motor drive the wheels. Re-purposing the now unused functions, I figured out where I would need to add a gear to have the drive shaft driven. After about an hour, I figured it out, and had the car back together. So now, first gear does nothing, second gear drives the rear wheels, third gear the wing, fourth the hood, like normal. The cool thing is, when the battery box is on, the lego engine block is cranking like it's idling.

Yeah, I'm probably going to modify mine like you did-

1st Gear- Rear Drive

2nd Gear- Engine (to appear like it's idling)

3rd Gear- Wing

4th Gear- Hood

I may go full-out and add powered steering too.

I'd also like to see how you did the Idle in yours. Is that in first gear, or when there is no gear selected?

Posted

Yeah, I'm probably going to modify mine like you did-

1st Gear- Rear Drive

2nd Gear- Engine (to appear like it's idling)

3rd Gear- Wing

4th Gear- Hood

I may go full-out and add powered steering too.

I'd also like to see how you did the Idle in yours. Is that in first gear, or when there is no gear selected?

Its both- I removed the gear that spun the worm gear for the door. So in first, its just spinning nothing. When no gear is selected, the mini motor is just spinning whatever is geared and that happens to crank the engine. I could take a picture, but I feel as if it won't explain much. Basically, I took the gear from the door, the 16 tooth gear and added it to the drive shaft on the driver side of the gear box, almost directly under the steering wheel. That way, when the gear for second gear is engaged, it drives the shaft, but its otherwise un-driven.

I hope that kind of explains it...

Posted

I started building the car, but for some reason some of the axles coming out of the gearbox seem a bit stiff. Probably will end up rebuilding what I have to date, or is this normal?

Posted

Today on the Lego Technic Designers Blog, TLG's designer of the 8070 set (Uwe Wabra) discussed his:

"Designing the 8070 Supercar"

"The 8070 Supercar was a really nice challenge and took around 5 months to complete, from the first prototypes were made until the final model was ready. The final model contains 1,281 LEGO Technic elements.

Being challenged to build a supercar is always special, but since I am very affectionate about supercars I found this task to be incredible cool!

There are a huge number of different supercars, both new ones and ‘oldies’. They are characterized by big engines and streamlined designs, as well as low and wide constructions. Supercars unite the speed and stylishness in a beautiful design that demonstrates elegance and power. For a car designer, the greatest challenges you can be given, must surely be to design a supercar.

A supercar needs to be simple, but hold the feeling of innovation and luxury that all car manufactures want to associate with their cars. Therefore, you will also experience that all car manufactures have built some sort of supercar.

Today, there are also a huge number of people who are designing their own supercars by tuning an ordinary car, rebuilding it to be lower and wider, or changing it more dramatically. Those are supercars for the ordinary men who always dreamed of having their own supercar. You also see an increasing number of TV stations broadcasting shows on cars being reworked, or wrecks being rebuilt into a supercar.

In the LEGO Technic 8070 Supercar, we have tried to use inspiration from all these different areas. We ended up building a model type that is a muscle car with a V8 engine in the front, distinctive wing doors and a hidden spoiler. We worked hard to make the curves right and designing the angles of the supercar to be as authentic as possible."

pic80CDEE615DF06A53BF0AE1B6D19F9199.pngpicA0B36902D6A2CB31081D09A54B7046A2.png

"Building the 8070 LEGO Technic Supercar has been real enjoyment right from the beginning - finding inspiration, identifying the type of car, developing the functions and finalizing the design. It’s been a truly inspiring and challenging building experience and I hope you will enjoy building it as much as I did."

Posted

I can't believe I am actually very tempted to buy this as my first official Technic set. :blush:

It seems to be a good set. I'm only on book one. Only able to build a little per day, but seems fun. The switch to operate the door seems to stick when switching gears is my only complaint so far.

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