lightningtiger Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 Well, I'm enjoying this one and you'll see what four hours of solid building does..... The white windows are not the ones being used in the final build, also the 1x2x3 red panels are missing, these as well as the red train windows are on order. Still more tiling and trim work to be done, as well as stickering over the black battery box...oh, yeah yellow pin striping too ! More to come.....comments as usual welcome and keep on watching ! Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 9, 2011 Author Posted March 9, 2011 I'm a little , why you may ask ?.....I've had to remove the wing pieces from the front and the bottom step runs too as it wouldn't sit right or actually at all on a curved section of track. Aw, well that's life......tomorrow I'll finish the tiling off and hopefully those slope 30 pieces too ! Keep on watching ! Quote
Jan Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 I'm a little , why you may ask ?.....I've had to remove the wing pieces from the front and the bottom step runs too as it wouldn't sit right or actually at all on a curved section of track. Aw, well that's life......tomorrow I'll finish the tiling off and hopefully those slope 30 pieces too ! Keep on watching ! Just an idea, The proportions will look even better if you would choose 5 wide for the main body, and it gives you a possibility to hide the rc-body. I think the 2x1 grill-bricks would look even better when they are reccesed in the body. Hope it's helpfull. Jan Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 9, 2011 Author Posted March 9, 2011 Just an idea, The proportions will look even better if you would choose 5 wide for the main body, and it gives you a possibility to hide the rc-body. I think the 2x1 grill-bricks would look even better when they are reccesed in the body. Hope it's helpfull. Jan True, 5 wide using large modified tiles to cover the the battery pack, but look at this image closely and compare especially the windows. Yep, this one still runs.....note the windows for the driver to see through, I mind is now thinking should I just use red windows similar to the white ones I'm using or try and go for the special train windows ? Keep on watching everyone ! Quote
vgsprites Posted March 9, 2011 Posted March 9, 2011 The red versions of the white ones should keep it in scale especially if you use red 1x2x2 train windows on the side of the cab. That should help for a clean look. I love shunting locos and this one looks great so far. The mini-fig friendly detailed cab looks awesome too. Can not wait to see this completed by april. Good luck for the train show lightningtiger! Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 9, 2011 Author Posted March 9, 2011 Thanks 'vgsprites' for your kind comments and suggestions, in the blueprint I have been able to download....lucky to find it I was...there are more than one size of window, there is the front drivers, the front door one which is narrower than the drivers, the two rear ones and the side windows which slide back half way..hence the 2x1 panel and the yet to be installed 3x2x1 panels - it's all about the train control you see there. I must not forget the two seats in there neither ! Keep those comments and suggestions comming - I'll try and find some more pictures of the Class 500 and post them. Quote
MetroiD Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 I think it's safe to say that you have developed your very own distinct style Tiger. There's the unmistakable Aussie angle, right there! As to the train in question - I'm with Jan on the topic of trying an odd-wide version just to see how that would look. Can't wait for the finished article. Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 10, 2011 Author Posted March 10, 2011 Thanks for those kind words 'MetroiD', I have the right colour windows on order as well as the 4x1 curved slope pieces. To make the engine section 5 wide instead of the present four brings the problem of blocking the windows.....if you look at the real one you can see quite clearly the shape of the windows plus they are as wide frame and glass the the width of the running board on either side of the engine....so to make the engine section 5 wide would require an overall width of 9 studs....one too many ! I must have this up and running by the end of next week, just over a month away from the train show. Brick On ! Quote
adrian_dixon Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 Awesome moc. Is this engine going to be power function? if so where is the ir receiver going to go? thanks Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 11, 2011 Author Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) Awesome moc. Is this engine going to be power function? if so where is the ir receiver going to go? thanks PF ? I wish.....no it's 2006 RC system being used....hence the black battery box....oh, an updated photo op here. Still more work to be done plus replacement of all white parts with red when they arrive at Toy Corner. Thanks for your kind words 'adrian'. Comments welcome still......keep on watching ! Edited March 11, 2011 by lightningtiger Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 12, 2011 Author Posted March 12, 2011 I laid out an oval track this afternoon and gave the 500 a test run and soon found the limits of RC.....no wonder PF has taken over. On it's own fine, okay pulling a carriage (first class EN carriage - for testing purposes only), but throw the EN itself into the mix....ouch - it goes okay to full power. The front and rear cow-catcher's are my only real problem - I must design something that coupling and said catcher worktogether without derailing the train. Keep on watching ! Quote
Legoless Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 Interesting prototype to model. Odd specification though- they only had 4 cylinder engines- the only British train to use this English Electric power unit was the famously noisy class 201 Diesel Electric Multiple Units used on the Hastings line. I've never had the, er, 'pleasure' of riding in one of those- but then I've never been a fan of the Southern Region British Rail stock. Also, this Australian loco seems rather large given its compact power unit. I suppose the loco's size gives it more room for cooling equipment or lots of room for maintainence. It sort of looks like a cut-down British Rail Class 20- which would make sense given the small numbers built- as otherwise it would probably have been built as a glorified 0-6-0 high-speed shunter. Looks like someone else has modelled one of these locos in Lego. Good luck with yours. Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 12, 2011 Author Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks 'Legoless' for your comments and that link, that 507 appears even more out of proportion, the driver must look through a small slot and the running rail around the side of the train...gee not much of a footing and that designer cheated.....9V track ! Wish I could go PF but can not afford it. Aw, well....I'll make do. Brick On Everyone ! Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 17, 2011 Author Posted March 17, 2011 I'm still working on this creation of mine, but I have a side-bar question where and how do I position one of those in my layout. Railyard Object It's a capstan for pulling rail cars.....I have dumped the idea of a grain silo and going now with a fuel depot....solves my service station and rail depot problems in one hit....why didn't I think of it before ! Keep any suggestions comming and Brick On Everyone ! Quote
SavaTheAggie Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 True, 5 wide using large modified tiles to cover the the battery pack, but look at this image closely and compare especially the windows. Yep, this one still runs.....note the windows for the driver to see through, I mind is now thinking should I just use red windows similar to the white ones I'm using or try and go for the special train windows ? Keep on watching everyone ! If you look at the picture in terms of scale - the main body of the locomotive is wider than twice the window. I think a five wide body would be best in terms of scale, not to mention the aforementioned ability to hide the battery box. As for the windows, for this application I'd be tempted to suggest you SNOT the windows and use a standard 1x2 transparent brick. I've used that several times now for cab windows and it works well. --Tony Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 30, 2011 Author Posted March 30, 2011 Just to bring everyone up to speed on this MOC of mine, I have had to bite the bullet and commit a sin....painting Lego......I know you are shocked, but I was left with no choice. The special train window was going to cost me up to 15 bucks to be imported ! Plus some panels had not arrived yet in the red I ordered. In saying that at the moment it looks good, still needs another coat or two.....I feel it looks even better painted a true SAR colour. Posting fresh pictures hopefully tomorrow.....so keep on watching ! Quote
AussieJimbo Posted March 30, 2011 Posted March 30, 2011 (edited) Look forward to judging your Lego crime, LT. ;-) I can understand your predicament though. I wouldn't want to pay $15 each for a few windows. Personally, I'd draw the line at custom detail painting, eg minfig torsos, dials, anything Lego applies painted details to. Haven't done this before but I'm considering it for the Maersk train. If I've viewed the pictures correctly it commits the other sin of stickers across gaps, particularly at the front. I'll look at scanning the sticker, turning it into a stencil and spray painting. What paint are you using? I'm guessing you did some research into ABS compatibility. :classic: Edited March 30, 2011 by AussieJimbo Quote
lightningtiger Posted March 30, 2011 Author Posted March 30, 2011 Ah, 'AJ' good old modeling paint, but first a special undercoat primer from a craft store lets you paint on wood, metal and fabric.....I have painted yellow wheels from a 2009 tractor with had white wheels using this combination of paints. I'll be doing the next coat tomorrow morning.....hopefully uploading fresh pictures a little while after (allow for some drying ! ) Keep on watching ! Quote
lightningtiger Posted April 1, 2011 Author Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) What does everyone think ? Just the stickering and front/rear trim to be done, also the custom driver too ! Comments welcome and keep on watching ! Edited April 1, 2011 by lightningtiger Quote
AussieJimbo Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 Well, I've got to admit I would have believed it if you'd said you bought the windows instead of painting them. Nice job. :classic: Quote
lightningtiger Posted April 1, 2011 Author Posted April 1, 2011 Well, I've got to admit I would have believed it if you'd said you bought the windows instead of painting them. Nice job. :classic: Thanks 'AJ', 90% of the red bricks have been painted in a deeper red, the window which you can't see on the other side which is the 1x2x3 train window I could only get in white, so paint job city ! I think this might be finished completely by Wednesday next week ! Quote
Fuzzylegobricks Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 I like it LT, The last picture made me wonder if it is done with detailing. Quote
lightningtiger Posted April 11, 2011 Author Posted April 11, 2011 I like it LT, The last picture made me wonder if it is done with detailing. Thanks 'Fuzzy', er....no - the pin stripping must be done....thanks also for the reminder. Updating later today. Quote
lightningtiger Posted April 11, 2011 Author Posted April 11, 2011 Pin stripping is smegging hard, but I've done it. Comments welcome and keep on track ! Quote
vgsprites Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 Nice pin stripping lightningtiger. Looks great! I like the decal on the front of the nose. Are you gonna do the lower chevron and the pin stripping around the windows or has the process of it tortured you enough? Quote
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