kyphur Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 (edited) I simply string together enough pieces (8) to replace the 2 straight track pieces. Then I added 8 1x2 Jumper Plates and 4 2x3 pieces in the center as shown. To help stabilize the ends I used the now un-needed green 1x4 plates. Now I used 6 1x8 tiles to fill the area between the tracks. I like this solution so much that I did something similar for my passenger train platforms. Note that here the tiles are directly on the center studs of the flex track. Edited April 24, 2011 by kyphur Quote
lostdriveway Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 oh nice work! I think i'm going to have to do something similar with mine now! Thanks! Quote
henryhotspurs Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 V ery nice! A great solution for using the unsightly flex track! Quote
hoeij Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 Why not use them for sidings? That will also help to prevent them from sliding. Quote
LEGO Guy Bri Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 Great idea 'kyphur' I have yet to open my flex track but, I will definitely try this! Quote
kyphur Posted April 24, 2011 Author Posted April 24, 2011 Why not use them for sidings? That will also help to prevent them from sliding. I guess that's also a good place to use them but the point of my post was that this is using the Flex-Track in places where Straight Track is used (such as the Level Crossing Set) and the stiffening additions actually look like they should be there. Quote
Sir E Fullner Posted April 24, 2011 Posted April 24, 2011 Good thinking. I just might try that out. Quote
Fuzzylegobricks Posted April 25, 2011 Posted April 25, 2011 Great idea! I will have to try this. Quote
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted April 25, 2011 Posted April 25, 2011 Cool solution! I like the white-yellow tile for your mini-station! Quote
Brickthus Posted April 26, 2011 Posted April 26, 2011 This is a good solution as a substitute for the 1x4 plates outside the rails, for the purpose of keeping the track straight. Having used jumpers and 2x3 inserts this way before, for ballast on a curve, I'm already using the technique with jumpers, 2x3 plates and tiles along the track on my turntable. The advantage for a turntable is not so much to keep the track straight (as it's on straight frames already) but that the length of the turntable can be other than a multiple of 16M long. I've settled on 72M for now. 1x4 tiles bridge between the jumpers, each keeping a 2x3 plate in place, then other 1x4 tiles bridge between 2x3 plates, giving the offset plank effect. The tiles along the track substitute the function of the clips on the curved ballasted section in keeping the 2x3s in place. I took some pictures a couple of weeks ago so they will follow soon, though I might decide to hide the handrails! Mark Quote
xangodango Posted May 1, 2011 Posted May 1, 2011 Looks neat, although Im not sure what the big deal is about flexible track. damn handy I say, so long as you don't go nuts with trying to max out the curve every time or creating silly s shapes. They certainly help with making layouts less of a pain to do. Quote
mrblue Posted May 1, 2011 Posted May 1, 2011 well, for me they are not that bad either. they helped me a lot while planning my future layout. anyway, this level crossing idea is VERY good, and I wil use it for sure. it would be interesting to see if anyone has ever tried a level crossing on curved tracks... have a nice lego train day mrBlue Quote
hntrains Posted August 19, 2017 Posted August 19, 2017 You can basically use them for anything. But: they will still help drain battery power sooner and will still sound louder than the other pieces of track. Do you still have them in your layouts? Quote
Duq Posted August 19, 2017 Posted August 19, 2017 Hi hntrains and welcome to the forum. The topic you just replied to is 6 years old. Replying to old topics when you don't have something new to offer to the discussion is a bit of a nono... Quote
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