ME-Models Track arrives!

[Eric J. Olson]

Has anyone measured the electrical resistance of say 100 track lengths of ME? (for 9V that's 8 Ohm if you count it back and forth).

No, but we'll test it for ya!

[Toastie]

No, but we'll test it for ya!

Hi Eric,

that is one nice measurement! I have ordered my ME track already, waiting for it to arrive.

One thing that I'd like to know or find out (either way is fine for me): The track is made from aluminum, right? Aluminum as bulk metal conducts electricity very well, close to copper at much lesser weight. In lab however, we have frequently issues with surface oxidation - aluminum readily builds a rather stable oxide/hydroxide layer on a previously polished area. There are some aluminum boxes housing home-built electronics. Making a decent electrical contact to the housing sometimes requires some surface "scratching", particularly on older boxes.

Have you ever seen some sort of "aging" of the track with respect to surface conductivity? Or do the motor wheels easily grind off the surface edges "on the fly"? Or is it advisable to do some polishing before running trains after the track was unused for lets say a couple of weeks?

Thanks in advance + greetings

Thorsten

[Eric J. Olson]

Have you ever seen some sort of "aging" of the track with respect to surface conductivity? Or do the motor wheels easily grind off the surface edges "on the fly"? Or is it advisable to do some polishing before running trains after the track was unused for lets say a couple of weeks?

I certainly would not expect to see any oxidation surfacing within a week or two...more like YEARS after the fact if at all and obviously, that will vary with the environment (i.e. if you live in Miami (high humitidy and costal air) it will probably happen faster than if you lived in Phoenix (low humidity, non-costal air). Also, aluminum has natural corriosion resistance property higher than most metals. According to someone in the train forum at BrickWorld last week, natural aluminum oxidation is also conductive...I don't know the validity of it, but he threw it out there. Our rails are also not "pure" aluminum as 100% aluminum is rarely used or worked with...almost everything out there is an alloy with silicon and iron added in small (less than 1% amounts) for strength.

Also, I had read a couple of metal forums that have given a few cleaning suggestions. I have read the following work well:

1. Oven cleaner (use sand as an abrasive with a cloth to wipe clean).

2. Naval jelly (never heard of it).

3. A scotch brite pad.

[AussieJimbo]

Naval jelly (never heard of it).

Do you get that in humid places instead of belly button fluff? Eeeewww.

According to the wonderful wikipedia, it's actually a gel form of phosphoric acid.

'Rust removal

Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.

"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.'

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid#Rust_removal

PS, appreciate all the great information you are sharing, Eric.

:classic:

Edited June 21, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[Toastie]

I have read the following work well:

1. Oven cleaner (use sand as an abrasive with a cloth to wipe clean).

2. Naval jelly (never heard of it).

3. A scotch brite pad.

Eric,

thanks for all the info!

I would not go with 2, since that stuff is really made for turning "rust", which is a more or less porous iron oxide layer not protecting the iron metal below (that is why rust keeps on working its way into the metal ... ) into a stable "closed" iron phosphate layer (which is protective). Aluminum is best treated with 1 + 3, as far as I am concerned. AussieJimbo has given all the references.

And: I too would like to thank you for sharing all this information on your new product! This is true customer service and once I have tried the tracks and they work for me (I am convinced they will) I'll may want to order considerable amounts!

Thanks again an best regards,

Thorsten

[splatman]

If you're not running power, just throw them out as they are useless to you.

You might want to keep them in case you decide to run power. Or save them for something else.

[CarrollFilms]

Thanks for the review, just ordered my first box of ME track. From the reviews, this track will work GREAT!!!

[drdavewatford]

And: I too would like to thank you for sharing all this information on your new product! This is true customer service and once I have tried the tracks and they work for me (I am convinced they will) I'll may want to order considerable amounts!

I was thinking the same - great to have you on the forum and quickly responding to questions, Eric - it gives me confidence about the product and the company. I hope you're also getting lots of valuable feedback and food for thought from the experts on here.

I was wondering if you've considered setting up a rudimentary distribution netwrok for the rails outside the U.S.; maybe you could identify a few suitable Bricklink sellers in some of the key countries who could effectively be "agents" for the product, thus cutting down on shipping costs and reducing shipping times ? Just a thought.

D.

[Toastie]

Hi Eric,

some quick feedback on ME track: Had two super-tough train testers in the house today, the kids had the whole set-up under full steam. My BR23 (after 3 hours of full power fwd/bwd operation [ben Beneke can even be more proud of his model] suffers from a coupling rod failure ... but other than that: No problems ) ME track was present on long stretches of straight track. No failure here. I noticed some initial connection problems between the pieces. Again, easily taken care of: Just bend the recessed bit at the end a >little< and off we go.

Now, when I was preparing for the invasion last night, I noticed:

1) The flexi track does not readily attach to the ME track (easily taken care of with a file, for amateurs like me, aluminum is nice to work with ...). Now who does want to ... me. My set-up is odd in every regard, and flexi track simply saves me. (I don't hate that stuff anymore, you can even make high speed HoMa curves )

2) The 9V power connection wires (#5305) don't attach to the track readily; you need to use a file again to reduce the "thickness" of the rails on the "outside" (wow, very well phrased, huh

Just as a heads-up - in case some folks want to go all-ME, you may consider giving instructions on "how to" or notch them during manufacturing.

Regards,

Thorsten

[gondortoast]

I have some ideas on how to possilbly expand the M.E railway product line, as you said you were trying to provide lego rail enthusiasts with the complete experience would this include motors?

becuase i believe if you were at one point supply different 9v motors that would allow for engine set ups like 0-6-0 's or 0-4-0 's and the wheels to have options for

bars to make them look like steam engines (can't for the life of me remember what they are called )

This would allow us to be able to create and type of loco we could ever dream of!

And I would snap them up in a heartbeat!!!

just some food for thought....

[greenmtvince]

Any word on the R56? Sorry I keep asking about it, but this is the most exciting thing to happen to LEGO trains since the Metroliner.

[Eric J. Olson]

We plan to release a rail with "notches" for power pickup from the 9V speed controller...just haven't gotten that far yet...

As for the R56, engineering is done, and it's off to the mold maker.

[greenmtvince]

Excellent! I'm looking forward to it.

Thanks for the reply.