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Posted (edited)

I plan to add a couple more sprockets once my BrickLink order comes in.

Cool and thanks! :thumbup: Really simple and effective tho i wonder how well does it tackle obstacles compared to the wheels?

More sprockets are probably going to make it so that it will have better maneuverability in rough terrain and snow.

Ill order some parts on bricklink today and build some too:)

Edited by Siegfried
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Posted (edited)

I plan to add a couple more sprockets once my BrickLink order comes in.

Very cool! I like it very much.

Tim

Edited by Siegfried
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Posted

@ skylinedan: Fernando Correia wrote the TechnicBRICKS article over two years ago (on January 12, 2010). The 57518 Technic Treads have appeared since 2007, and one can select parts from older (~2007-2009) Technic sets to get the older type treads (per this Bricklink webpage). One can alternate old/new/old/new Technic Tread pieces to get around the problem of tight bends:

Thanks! Yes, that is the article I was looking for. I will have to contact some Bricklink sellers to see if they know where their parts are from.. These new ones stink!default_thumbdown.gif

Posted (edited)

Hi,

to use a large cylinder was a good idea. The range is much better.

It looks great!

Can you give some instructions, please :sweet:

Edited by Siegfried
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Posted

On behalf of the moderators.........

Please stop quoting images!!

Well thanks... while I do 100% agree please don't mini-mod. It's better if peoples hatred is directed at staff. :wink:

Posted

Sorry, :cry_sad:

I´m new here

Dont worry we all made mistakes :classic: . i suggest you read the forum rules to a get a better idea of what is good posting procedure.

tim

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok, here is my 8110 MOD

It is a "forest MOD"

I was inspired by effermanns crane so here are the pictures

Hope you like it :sweet:

So far dfs473

Looks good. What are you going to use for logs?

Posted

I was just thinking about doing that today. :)

Looks good. IR controlled too. Can it be removed or is it "built in" ?

You can remove the crane as the original crane. The RC functions for driving, steering front pto and rear pto and the compressor are built in

@ dr_spock I will use little branches with a diameter between 1 and 3 cm

@ timr I can make some fotos and post them together with the video^^

Posted (edited)

Hello,

I have taken some detailed photos and also maked a video

6886316466_d0d2e1ab3c_m.jpg

More photos you can find here

And here is the video:

Edited by dfs473
Posted

Hi There,

i just took an hour of fooling around a bit with my unimog.

I might have a way to putt an XL-Motor into the mainframe without changing to overall design.

First i replaced the two rear 13-hole liftarms on the upper frame with two 9-hole lift arms - please disregard the dark bluish gray, as they just came to my hand first.

This leaves fairly enough room for the xl-motor.

When looking from the rear of the unimog towards to gearbox you can spot the engine driveshaft below the steering shaft. The axle sticks out 1 length unit so i attached a joint an a 3 stud-axle with a large 24 tooth gear.

The motor also has a 3 stud axle with a small gear attached.

The motor is lowered into the frame - leaving the pinholes of the motor exactly on the level of the upper mainframe.

Well, the mod is far from begin finally, but a first test showed it works, and the 4x4 feature of the unimog remains untouched, since the engineshaft is connected to the main differential.

However, i'm planning on gearing down to torque within the portal axles. Another aspect that needs to be change is that the platform needs to be raised by on one unit as the motor sticks out of the frame to far.

Hi

I've just motorised my 'Mog using the method you described, well, almost.

I disconnected the lower mount of the rear shocks and removed from the chassis the 2 black pins and the grey axle they were holding.

I fitted connector to the drive shaft and a 3 length axle into that. Then 2 friction pins with cross into 2 (2905) 'coat hanger' pieces (sorry, don't know the proper name) and a black friction pin into the motor. Then just huffed, puffed & swore until the motor was in and hooked up to the engine drive shaft.

Works a treat. Steering next....

I know there are more elaborate & elegant solutions but I've taken a few months building my 'Mog by mouth and taking it apart would be harder than ever.

Posted

New to website looking for some instructions. Picked up 2 8110 in the ToysRUs b1g1 half off as they didn't have a 8043 available. Want to motorized mine to use remote to steer and gor forward and bacwards. I have searched over the Net and not found any cler instructions how to do this does anyone able to assist me point me toward directions?

Posted

@ Brewc: :classic: pcility has many photos of his fully-motorized 8110 Lego Technic Unimog U400 set on his Brickshelf gallery. He posted a set of three YouTube videos about the conversion; I can only display two of them here.

:

(shown below) and
(which you'll have to view separately by clicking on the hyperlink):

Posted (edited)

I have seen the videos and pictures, hoping for more of a parts list an what goes where. I'm just getting back into buliding and have never done any mods on Technic. just a dumb

American Thanks

Edited by Brewc
Posted

Great thread :classic: I have just read all 69 pages :)

I sold off ALL my Lego last year and I am now building my collection back up, this is the first new Technic I have purchased and boy am I glad I did :) I also have 8068 and 8069 which I have not built as yet, just using the pieces from these two sets what would be some good mods? I am thinking of adding a trailer and maybe a bucket for the front of it.

Paul

Posted

Nice trailer! Often trailers like that have a tilting bed. Do you think you could add a tilting feature?

tim

No, it would be too wide this way... I will add some ramps which can swivel.

Tim

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