January 22, 201312 yr Hello EB members! After a long period of modifying I would like to present my finished modification of the Unimog U400. I decided to build a blue version due to two reasons: I thought with all the winter equipment I already built before I finished the modification it would be too much orange. Furthermore with the available parts in blue it was much easier to close these holes in the roof of the original one (I don't like them). I implemented Barman76's idea of the doors that can be opened which adds a great part to a better realism in my opinion. The mechanism works pretty well, so these credits does he deserve. Additionally, I mounted many tiles to make the doors less transparent. The model contains round about 2.850 parts. The following power function elements are used in the model: 2x IR receiver (1x V1; 1x V2) 1x XL motor (driving) 1x M motor (steering) 2x L motor (front and rear PTO) 1x M Motor (2x pneumatic pumps) 1x pole reverser/polarity switch (operates the pneumatic pumps manually) 1x light unit (head lights; do only work when the driving motor works) 1x Remote Control Unit 1x Speed Remote Control Unit 1x battery box (88000-1; I will try to get a rechargeable battery box for a reasonable price…) I used some harder third party springs for the original shock absorbers. The model weighs 2.7 kilos. Therefore the original springs weren’t able to bring the whole model back to center after compressing. I’m very satisfied with this solution. I used a pneumatic switch at the front and at the rear part of the chassis to direct the air from the pneumatic pumps to the left or to the right pneumatic hose connector. Two further pneumatic switches are mounted at the middle part of the chassis directly behind the front wheels. These switches are operating the pneumatic cylinder to tilt the dump bed as well as the pneumatic cylinders for lifting the cab. The steering of the M motor is geared down as follows: 12/20 directly at the motor and before the knob wheels are working (I decided not to replace the knob wheels with common gears to prevent the gears from jumping although I built a strong locking mechanism for the cab); 8/24 and 12/20 in the middle of the chassis. So the total final gear ratio is 1:8.337. The driving motor is geared down as follows: 12/20 for the fast gear; 12/20 to 12/20 for the slow gear. Furthermore both gears are reduced by a ratio of 12/20 in the portal axles. So the total final gear ratio is 1:2.779 for the fast gear and 1:4.632 for the slow gear. The whole drive train is very long which made it impossible to use other combinations like 8/24 to gear down the motor. As well as the pneumatic trailer for the Unimog I also started to modify the whole model with LDD. This time I got much more problems (always some steps before the finish line) but I got all these problems solved by working out a solutions directly at the model. Especially the arrangement of all the wires was quite a big challenge because the battery box and both IR receivers are placed in the rear of the cab. Finally, I can show you real pictures of the pneumatic trailer attached to the Unimog instead of these I made some time ago with LDD. More pictures are available on Brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...anbetulapendula Thanks for reading and thanks to all of you who gave me inspiration! Regards, Stefan Edited January 22, 201312 yr by stefan_betula_pendula
January 22, 201312 yr Just WOW!!! That's really impressiv! Just one more thing, wouldn't it be better if the two pumps run counterwise? I did this, and I think the airflow is much better... Edited January 22, 201312 yr by Pat-Ard
January 22, 201312 yr Yes, you're right. This was one of my missed objectives... I just needed one more stud to mount two 'liftarm 1x3 thin' but I simply found no space. Any ideas? YOU are the one who have my chassis as a LDD file! Edited January 22, 201312 yr by stefan_betula_pendula
January 22, 201312 yr It looks great in blue! I actually had plans for building a blue cab for my Unimog, maybe I have to do that now.
January 22, 201312 yr I have never thought of using zipties before! Looks interesting in blue, its growing on me. tim
January 23, 201312 yr I like the clean and neat look without the crane attachment. The colour contrast is really well implemented here!
January 23, 201312 yr Hello all, This is my first post on this forum, but i have been following it for a while, due to my love of legos, and building MOC's. I haven't made an MOC in a while, so i'm still getting used to it again... Here is a link to my dropbox folder with pictures in it. Sorry for the quality, they were taken with a cell-phone. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/67wmdtx2bs8uup8/16EX95E8T7 What do you guys think? If there are any suggestions on how to make my modifications better in any way please do tell me. Thanks. -Ben Edited January 23, 201312 yr by Bosoxrule97
January 24, 201312 yr stefan_betula_pendula bravo on the 2 speed gear box design! i was just messing around with the idea and used something similar to yours, but used a motor out of the 9398 crawler...it woks, but not that well...i will be upgrading to the xl motor soon....Great ideas!!!
January 24, 201312 yr Thanks for all your possitive comments! yay, i am not the only one to use zip-ties. Yes, they are a quite helpful tool. Otherwise it would be impossible to pack all the wires into such a small space. Furthermore I couldn't close the cab. bravo on the 2 speed gear box design! i was just messing around with the idea and used something similar to yours, but used a motor out of the 9398 crawler...it woks, but not that well...i will be upgrading to the xl motor soon....Great ideas!!! Brathendel came up with a more compact version of a two gear mechanism some time ago. You may look at post #1189. His drive train is much shorter and also allows the use of the combination 8/24. I would recommend to use his version if your Unimog is less modified and if you have enough space in the rear of the chassis. Edited January 24, 201312 yr by stefan_betula_pendula
January 24, 201312 yr Hi there, today I finally managed to build a pneumatic trailer hitch for my Unimog... What do you think? Oh, and here is the LDD: https://dl.dropbox.c...matic_hitch.lxf One more picture, this time is the hitch open. Pat Edited January 24, 201312 yr by Pat-Ard
January 24, 201312 yr Very comlex and interesting work. Hope you can show us video of such deep modification:)
January 29, 201312 yr Hello EB members! After a long period of modifying I would like to present my finished modification of the Unimog U400. I decided to build a blue version due to two reasons: I thought with all the winter equipment I already built before I finished the modification it would be too much orange. Furthermore with the available parts in blue it was much easier to close these holes in the roof of the original one (I don't like them). I implemented Barman76's idea of the doors that can be opened which adds a great part to a better realism in my opinion. The mechanism works pretty well, so these credits does he deserve. Additionally, I mounted many tiles to make the doors less transparent. The model contains round about 2.850 parts. The following power function elements are used in the model: 2x IR receiver (1x V1; 1x V2) 1x XL motor (driving) 1x M motor (steering) 2x L motor (front and rear PTO) 1x M Motor (2x pneumatic pumps) 1x pole reverser/polarity switch (operates the pneumatic pumps manually) 1x light unit (head lights; do only work when the driving motor works) 1x Remote Control Unit 1x Speed Remote Control Unit 1x battery box (88000-1; I will try to get a rechargeable battery box for a reasonable price…) I used some harder third party springs for the original shock absorbers. The model weighs 2.7 kilos. Therefore the original springs weren’t able to bring the whole model back to center after compressing. I’m very satisfied with this solution. I used a pneumatic switch at the front and at the rear part of the chassis to direct the air from the pneumatic pumps to the left or to the right pneumatic hose connector. Two further pneumatic switches are mounted at the middle part of the chassis directly behind the front wheels. These switches are operating the pneumatic cylinder to tilt the dump bed as well as the pneumatic cylinders for lifting the cab. The steering of the M motor is geared down as follows: 12/20 directly at the motor and before the knob wheels are working (I decided not to replace the knob wheels with common gears to prevent the gears from jumping although I built a strong locking mechanism for the cab); 8/24 and 12/20 in the middle of the chassis. So the total final gear ratio is 1:8.337. The driving motor is geared down as follows: 12/20 for the fast gear; 12/20 to 12/20 for the slow gear. Furthermore both gears are reduced by a ratio of 12/20 in the portal axles. So the total final gear ratio is 1:2.779 for the fast gear and 1:4.632 for the slow gear. The whole drive train is very long which made it impossible to use other combinations like 8/24 to gear down the motor. As well as the pneumatic trailer for the Unimog I also started to modify the whole model with LDD. This time I got much more problems (always some steps before the finish line) but I got all these problems solved by working out a solutions directly at the model. Especially the arrangement of all the wires was quite a big challenge because the battery box and both IR receivers are placed in the rear of the cab. Finally, I can show you real pictures of the pneumatic trailer attached to the Unimog instead of these I made some time ago with LDD. More pictures are available on Brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...anbetulapendula Thanks for reading and thanks to all of you who gave me inspiration! Regards, Stefan Hi, I refer to my earlier post to an similiar model: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&view=findpost&p=1362969 regards, Peter
January 29, 201312 yr @ stefan_betula_pendula Gratulations! Realy good ideas! I`ll hope the gear will work even in "hard action"? I had some trouble to tame the torque.. regards, Brathendel
January 29, 201312 yr Hi folks, did some pimping to my trailer... The mudguards look better now... I like the support wheel. What do you think? Pat
January 29, 201312 yr Hello EB members! After a long period of modifying I would like to present my finished modification of the Unimog U400. Best Unimog so far for me !!!
January 31, 201312 yr It's really easy to do. There are some little modification atbthe steering and at the chassis, there you need to replace the black 15 beams with 13. and the connection between them needs to be removed. Pat Pat, could you please explain a little more in detail, what you changed on chassis and steering? I'd like to re-build your steering with the Servo-motor, but currently I don't really understand what to change. Thx Markus
January 31, 201312 yr Hi Markus1972, I'll make some detailled pictures tonight and post them... If you compare them with the original instructions you should get it. Pat
January 31, 201312 yr Hi Markus1972, here you go... Some more pictures... If you have any more questions, feel free to ask... Pat
January 31, 201312 yr @ stefan_betula_pendula have you noticed gear slipping/clicking under high torque? ie trying to climb small obsticles?
February 1, 201312 yr If you have any more questions, feel free to ask... Pat how did you attatch the steering rack piece? there is a shadow and i can not clearly see...the way i have it attatched allows it to move funky. lol.also, did you use a longer steering rack? because with this gear it moves to far and skips and allows it to not be center anymore...what am i missing? here is what i have, everything just like yours (i think) except for attatchment of the steering rack./ Edited February 1, 201312 yr by mike4slund
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.