50 euros including shipping. Zmei_gorini4 did a very professional job!

What about the steering, what's the best/easiest way to improve it? I found this, which seems nice, but a rather big change...

Hi stefan,

wow, the Unimog and the trailer are great!!! Real good job...

No, the Unimog won't get boring...

Pat

In the topic about Efferman's parts on this forum we discussed the U500 wheel covers he designed and I bought. It became apparent that Efferman and I had different visions about the look of the covers. I did some searching and started to realise that there are many combinations possible on the real U400 and U500 Unimogs. The question is what do you guys (and girls) think the 8110 should look like or was intended to look like?

I made an overview as reference:

The top row has closed centres, the middle row show examples of rims with open centres. I would like my 8110 to look like image 4 or 5, version A comes closed to this but miss the open centres.

The Efferman covers were designed with image 2 in mind (so version C is the best match).

We are interested in you opinions and thoughts.

Hi folks,

I took advantage of the good weather and took some photos of the actual family setting...

The overall view... To the left is more the winter stuff. A modified snowplow a side plow and a functional spreader and in the background an Unimog U20.

To the right there's the forestry stuff. The Nokka trailer and a U406 (MOC) and a modified U400 and the tipping trailer of stefan. And finally the signaling trailer with the electronic stuff of Zmei_gorini4.

Oh, and I forgot the mower on the left foreground.

Some more details - only the three Unimogs. Everyone ist R/Ced. The U20 and U400 are driven by a XL-motor, the U406 is driven by a L-motor. Each one is steered with a S-motor.

Here's my actual favorite theme - forestry...

The U406 and the U400 with the Nokka trailer.

Finally the U400 with the tipping trailer of stefan.

Have fun...

Pat

PS: I don't think the Unimog is boring :laugh:

I'm about to build the Unimog and there's a few mentioned issues that I'd like to fix directly when building, and I'd appreciate some advice. I've read most of this thread and there's so many different ways of doing things, so I'm wondering if there's some kind of accepted "best practice" for adressing the following:

1. The poor steering (stiff, with friction and large turn radius)

2. Battery box not centered which makes the truck lean towards one side after a while.

Other than these two issues, are there anything else you'd recommend me to do sooner rather than later?

1. For steering, chaning friction pins to axles and leaving out the half pins helps a bit.

2. I've not moved the battery box, but using the crane stabilizers and keeping crane turned sideways facing away from pneumatic controls helps it keep it straight. (Also note that turning the wheels will cause leaning.)

For other issues, I've done these small modifications:

- I've run the electric cable near the center diff using a black pin so it's not loose.

- I've added an air tank under the bed (but then you can't add a motor for drive).

- I've changed gear ratio at portal axles to 1:3, it makes the fake engine run faster and of course is good for motorization.

- Also a pole reverser switch is useful addition (although I don't have one installed at the moment)

For a "bigger" change, I've changed the grabber to the one from 42006 Excavator, of course changing it to pneumatic. (I think there was discussion about it some time ago here, but I made my own version. I could share if I find time to do a LXF of it.)

I have a Unimog that is about 90% stock/ as is had done some minor modifications on it but my main concern is changing the standard Unimog tires to the ones they use for the power puller set. I want to keep my Unimog as stock as possible with the exception of the tires, as far as the steering will the tires ever hit or rub against the beams and when the shocks move up and down will the tires tend to rub against the fenders (on the stock tires I know it does but only when the suspension is pushed to its limits) any suggestion guys?

Hello Pat-Ard,

I love your Unimog U20.

Did you use the original Unimog U400 chassis? Or have you chanced it a lot?

Have you more detailed pictures of it. I want to rebuild your design.

I can't send tyou a PM because i am a new member.

Greetz Ron

Hi Ron,

thanks for your compliment...

Yes, it's a modificated chassis of the U400. It's just some stids shortened... In this thread the most is discribed: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67242&hl=

Do you want to RC it? If so there are some more small changes needed...

If you have further questions feel free to ask.

Pat

I am just starting to design some attachments for my Unimog, has anybody found any good sources of ideas on attachments that they use in real life?

Hi Paul,

as ever, Google is a ressource. But you might want to take a look here:

http://media.daimler.com/dcmedia/mb-nfz

You know why the Unimog is called Unimog? It means "UNIversal MOtor Gerät", so nearly everthing is possible - even RVs.

Have fun building the Unimog and attatchments. If you are interested in some of my attatchments, feel free to ask.

Pat

PS: hey that's my 500th post, and it's in my favourite thread and theme!!!

Thanks for that link, some really good ideas.

Last night I did some more work on my loading belt system for the Unimog, it works for a while and then stalls. What is really strange is that when I was building it I was using a M motor connected directly and this worked fine. What is the gear ration of the rear PTO of the Unimog?

I don't know the gear ration. But how about pimping the Unimog like stefan_betula_pendula and adding two M-Motors. One at the front PTO and on on the rear?

Pat

I don't know the gear ration. But how about pimping the Unimog like stefan_betula_pendula and adding two M-Motors. One at the front PTO and on on the rear?

Pat

This is something I was thinking about if I can't get it to work. I have been looking at a few different options today and think I have found a way around it, I will test this tonight.

Good luck! I have the same problem with my spreader...

Well I managed to fix the problem my gearing up after the rear PTO, I hope to have my video / photos and a write up on this posted in the next few days.

I have recently designed and built a loading chute attachment to work with the Unimog U400 (set 8110). I have some ideas for other attachments when I will be designing and building when I have time to do this.

The loading chute idea came about from something I saw in use for loading fire wood a few weeks ago. I tracked down some photos and information online and used this as the basis for designing and building this. It runs off the rear PTO of the Unimog and attaches to one of the standard mounting points. To start with it was running using the 1:1 gear ratio from the rear PTO, this was not fast enough to force the pieces up the chute and out the top so I increased to to a 1:3 ratio using a 24 tooth driver and a 8 tooth follower, after some refining of the design and many test runs I have an end result I am happy with.

More photos and a video of this in use can be found on my blog: http://paulstechnic.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/moc-loading-chute-for-unimog-u400-set.html

Hi Paul,

this looks great. I like the idea and it fits good in my forestry theme...

Pat

Following on from my previous MOC of a loading chute attachment (http://paulstechnic....g-u400-set.html) I have now finished my next attachment for the Unimog U400. This is a front mounted dozer blade controlled by pneumatics.

My research for this started by looking online at the various attachments people have designed and built for this model on the Eurobricks forum: (http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=57543). I also undertook some research online of the various attachments that are used on real life Unimogs. From this research I came up with a possible idea and I did some rough hand drawings to see what would work.

A couple of days later I had some spare time, so I got out my parts collection and started to build based on the drawings I had done. The first problem I came across was that I didn't have enough panels of the same colour to build the whole blade and support structure how I had designed it / wanted, I really wanted to keep the look as professional as possible so didn't want to start mixing colours too much. After trying a few different options I decided on making this mostly green with some red for the top of the blade and other details.

Building the support structure was fairly easy as it was just a matter of joining the angled beams together, adding some pieces to keep the dimensions correct and making sure it was strong enough to support the weight of the blade, I also added the small pneumatic ram at this point and confirmed that it would lift and lower the blade successfully. After this it was just a matter of adding the details to the blade / support structure. At this point the blade was built and tested as working.

One of my goals with this modification was to move the pneumatic control in to the cabin beside the driver’s seat, the same as it would be in a real life Unimog. To do this I added an extra beam from the axle which controls the hand of god steering to a mounting point inside the cabin, I then built a simple mounting for the pneumatic switch with a thin beam on the other side to route the pneumatic hoses down to the bottom of the cabin and out the front where they connect to the pneumatic ram. This took a lot of time as I wanted to try and keep the original look as much as possible and make as few changes to the Unimog as I could. I had to remove one of the support axles from the front of the cabin to allow me to route the pneumatic hoses out the front; this has very little impact on the looks / function of the set. The pneumatic hoses have been neatly routed inside the cabin and out the front before being connected to the pneumatic ram and tested. The front PPTO has been moved in to the cabin and connected to the pneumatic switch, if another attachment needs to be used at the front with the PPTO this requires adding a T piece and connecting both of the output pneumatic hoses to it. The cabin still opens as origional.

Overall I spent a few hours researching / designing this last week and about 5 hours over two nights building and testing it. Most of my time was spent on moving the front PPTO to inside the cabin, installing the pneumatic switch and routing the pneumatic hoses in such as way that I was happy with the looks and function. I am very pleased with the end result and now have some more ideas for other attachments to built for the Unimog. Those with a keen eye will also notice I have converted this to right hand drive because I am in Australia and this is the right side of the road to drive on :)

More photos and a video can be found on my blog: http://paulstechnic.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/following-on-from-my-previous-moc-of.html

Edited May 7, 201410 yr by Paul B

Following on from the previous attachments I have designed and built for the Unimog U400 I had an idea to build a road roller. Below is the result of this. It lifts using the rear PTO of the Unimog and I have also included two warning lights on top.

On my blog are some photos and a video of it in use. http://paulstechnic.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/unimog-u400-road-roller-attachment.html

Hello Pat Ard,

I k your U20, is there a chance of you making istructions for it?

Hi,

here's the thread regarding the U20: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67242&hl=

If you haver further questions, feel free to ask via PM.

Pat

At the moment I am designing and building a number of attachments to sue with the Unimog U400 (Set 8110). The latest of these is a cherry picker attachment.

This extends to over 70cm tall, the arm is lifted by a small LA which is driven by a handle on the side. The turntable rotates using the rear PTO. I spent about 6 hours over the past two days designing and testing this, most of this time was spent on getting the lifting function to work well. As can be seen in the photos below our cat enjoyed being part of the QA team :)

http://paulstechnic.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/unimog-u400-set-8110-cherry-picker.html

Hi,

I've finally gotten around to take a few pics of the work I've done so far on the HIAB crane mod for the 8110. I've uploaded them to my brickshelf gallery, and included some information.

Very cool mod! I'm building an off-road racing Unimog, stripped of winch and crane, with a new color scheme. Appreciate the LXF!

Edited May 28, 201410 yr by Blakbird
: Trimmed enormous quote.

Maybe these Lego City scale models will inspire us all:

That's adorable.

I'm building an off-road racing Unimog. (They do exist).

My version (just WIP): https://www.dropbox....Unimog 1.png?m=

Mods include removal of roof (this will be driven in no-rain hospitable forest conditions), removal of A/C module, removal of cargo bed, removal of fenders, and addition of rear bumper. Will add roll cage for stiffness and crash protection. Has anyone done this already?

I took advantage of the good weather and took some photos of the actual family setting...

Who made the orange Unimog? It looks custom.

I'm sure some of you are fed up with the Unimog and can't see it anymore... But here is a sneak preview of my overhauled Unimog U400 and my pneumatic tipping trailer. I also added rotating beacons provided by Zmei_gorini4. I will add some better pictures to my Brickshelf account later.

Very nice-looking, love the color scheme, side tippers, and realistic fenders!

I don't know if this has been done before but how about a lowrider Unimog?

I got the idea from flipping the portal axles over, the rest of the build is almost stock. Here it is at ride height:

Cool! This would be useful as a non-low-rider ;

Edited May 28, 201410 yr by Blakbird
: Trimmed gargantuan quote.