Andi,

Do you have more pictures of this or a brickshelf page I can drool over? Love the red

Today I want to introduce my Unimog mod. It is very similar to Stefans blue one and he helped me a lot to finish it with ldd files and tipps. So it is time to say thank you very much Stefan!The tires are from Ansmann (bought in Austria at "Der Schweighofer")The model is fully RC controlled, the bed moves in three directions.Two pneumatic pumps and a air tank are responisble for the air to move the bed and the equipment.The springs are a little bit harder than the original one but unfortunatley they are still too soft. Now I am working on the winter equipment.

i wanted to share our double cylinder crane with two fold extension arm. It was inspired by a project of Patrick Riedel and Nitroeumel1. A double cylinder technique has double the force and half of the velocity of a single version. So the motions are more powerful and less nervous. We adopted it in some places. The feet are moved like a knee lever. At the end of down movement the pneumatic cylinder makes a long travel and generates the greatest force at the foot. The joints of the arms are optimised. The second arm does extract two elements with one movement. It reaches almost double its original length. The gear can either be done by a micro motor or by manual wheel. So it is a very compact crane when folded and it has a really long extension when working. LDRAW model see link below.

Markus

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markus434/Unimog/kran1.mpd

That crane mod looks really good.

On a side note I wonder if this is the longest Technic discussion

Edited November 2, 201410 yr by Rishab N

Those striped curtains are freaking me out -

@markus53 : great job. This looks really functional.

@sdotcarter: Here are some more pics. Was not so easy for a beginner ;)http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=447329Now there is only one pic from 8 or 9 uploaded ones left

Edited November 4, 201410 yr by xx1Andi

That crane is really good,good use of a micromotor.

Edited November 4, 201410 yr by Alasdair Ryan

That crane is really good,good use of a micromotor.

I wish they still made micromotors, so handy!

@Andi, Not yet public :(

That crane mod looks really good.

On a side note I wonder if this is the longest Technic discussion

Not quite the longest, but certainly the thread with the most views.

@sdotcarter! Now it works! I

http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=549335

Edited November 6, 201410 yr by xx1Andi

by the way, there maybe is still interest in orange flashing beacons like we used in my last posting. It is a nice project and it is always a lot of fun to make things by your own. It is no easy project for beginners, though. If you only want to have them, then ask zmei gorini4, he did a great job. And the price is not high for such hand made things, really.

markus

parts available at www.reichelt.de

NE 555 D SMDTimer, SO-8

SMD 4017 CHIP-IC, CD 4017

LO P476 OSRAM Point LED, 355 mcd, orange

SMD-0603 470 SMD-Chipwiderstand 0603, 470 Ohm

SMD-0603 21k5 SMD-Chipwiderstand 0603, 21.5 kOhm

lego power functions connection cable

base plate

We used the single wires of high frequency litz wire (100x0.1mm) for electrical connection of the beacons to the control circuit. They are coated each and they are thin enough. The silk wrapping can be used for covering the cable. Available e.g. at Menting (www.spulen.com). Other wires are also possible of course.

Hy i Just got one of the last Unimog still available.

I already made it RC but or it is going to slow or it has not enough torque to go ofroad.

For this problem i tought to make a gearbox at the place where the baterybox is located. I also have only place for one RC controled motor.

I think the best solution is to make a 4 speed because otherwise you would stop driving as you drive.

i would also use the snowplow at the same time. So I have only 2 ir recievers and 3 of the 4 contacts are used so i can only use 1 contact.

It would be nice if u had some idees. I am also planning to buld this front suspention,

and http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=60242&st=25.

The place for it is 6 studs on 7 studs on 8 studs.

Feel free for any (im)possible sollutions.

Thanks

When you say "last still available" -- what exactly do you mean? 8110 has been EOL for a while now. Plenty are available through the secondary market, but if you meant through the primary market I would be interested where you got it from....

Here, it is €229,00 new. I almost got one for Christmas present for my son. Very expensive!

Heres some info

@ legotechnicblue: Do you mean the AWD 4+R Transmission (not "4WD") that is available for purchase at the bottom of this webpage? It's pictured above. There doesn't seem to be any room in the 8110 Unimog U400 set for that transmission (chassis renders from Blakbird's Brickshelf Gallery):

Based on the above response this may be the best you'll get.

@kevman,

i think i have almost what you are searching for. I have modified the unimog with RC-control, two gear automatic, steering, while keeping all other functions. Also the design is preserved as much as possible. There are though many modifications.

- Steering is done by an M-motor located at the front axle with a gear 1:9 and a friction clutch. This location is better for a low balance point and there is no problem with the loose force transmission when the motor is placed in the driving cab.

- Two gear automatic drive. The fast gear is driven by an M-motor. If the rotation speed gets too low, an XL-motor takes over the driving with low transmission ratio. A freewheeling mechanism decouples the XL-motor in case of fast velocity. It can climb up to 100% slope. It is necessary a hand made part. Cut a half long bush in two parts and polish them with sand paper down to 1.2mm thickness (see photo). It makes a well defined friction at the freewheeling unit.

- Lockable middle differential gear. The cross-country mobility is much better if the middle differential gear is blocked. Alasdair Ryan suggested that solution at page 36. Unfortunately the unit with lock is one stud too long. so it need a bigger modification in the center box of the unimog. I also reinforced the differential with a fourth gear wheel. Then it stands more than twice the force.

- The left back wheel suspension is half a stud higher than the right one to balance out the weight of the battery box.

- LED lights front and rear

http://www.brickshel...mog/Unimog2.mpd

Hi,

I've built the Unimog with the automatic two-speed gearbox from Markus53 (see picture above) and have made the instructions, see here:http://www.bricksafe.com/files/afol1969/Instructions/UnimogX.pdf

There you can see that I've placed the battery box on the load bed and the receivers behind the cabin. If you don't need an airtank, there must be enough room available to to place an individual gearbox.

Greetings

Alex

The batteries on the original Unimog is badly positionned.

Behind the cabin is indeed the best place to move it, or even inside :P

When you say "last still available" -- what exactly do you mean? 8110 has been EOL for a while now. Plenty are available through the secondary market, but if you meant through the primary market I would be interested where you got it from....

It isn't From Pimary Market, Bol.com is like €299, But i have bought it from bricklink at a good price of €189. It Was in an unopened box that was inside a big plastic bag, witch was in an even bigger box

Heres some info

Based on the above response this may be the best you'll get.

Do i have to totally rebuild the body for the locking of the central diff

Hi,

I've built the Unimog with the automatic two-speed gearbox from Markus53 (see picture above) and have made the instructions, see here:http://www.bricksafe...ons/UnimogX.pdf

There you can see that I've placed the battery box on the load bed and the receivers behind the cabin. If you don't need an airtank, there must be enough room available to to place an individual gearbox.

Greetings

Alex

sorry but i don't get the system of your set gearbox etc.

The batteries on the original Unimog is badly positionned.

Behind the cabin is indeed the best place to move it, or even inside :P

I thought that to

I will merge this topic with the MODs topic:

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543

Do i have to totally rebuild the body for the locking of the central diff

Mot likely but I coupled mine to two xl's with a "limited slip". Set up like below on all 3 diffs.

XL's added like this:

Luckily I had purchased 2 unimogs back when so I can build each version while looking at the one previous.

Just bought my second 8110 set, can't wait to make the B model and have them side by side :)

@markus53:

It's just now I've seen your crane mod. I'ts very impressive And thanks to share the CAD file. If I've some time, I'll create instructions, it's really worth

Greetings

Alex

Hi,

I've built the Unimog with the automatic two-speed gearbox from Markus53 (see picture above) and have made the instructions, see here:http://www.bricksafe...ons/UnimogX.pdf

There you can see that I've placed the battery box on the load bed and the receivers behind the cabin. If you don't need an airtank, there must be enough room available to to place an individual gearbox.

IMHO the best place for battery is inside the cabin - but it requires the Lipo-Battery 8878 (rsp. the 88000 AAA Box)! it fixes the left-lean-problem and has in addition the advantage, that you can implement a tilting bed, which is a very nifty addon to the unimog. Placing the battery at the bed prevents from tilting the bed....

Here you can find more informations about my Unimog RC approach:

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1700#entry1970587

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1700#entry1964626

detailed pics for all MODS: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kumbbl/MODs/8110%20Unimog

Edited December 10, 201410 yr by Kumbbl

Hi Alex,

your unimog instruction was very good. So feel free to make one of our crane! I would appreciate it.

markus