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Posted

I agree, but the more specific the parts are, the less possible for lego to use them in other sets. Maybe those wheels look great on a Unimog but not necessarily on a supercar. I think that's the main drive behind their decisions, to make sets that are as close as possible to the original yet its parts are completely interchangeable and usable to make virtually anything.

I agree, but the Unimog tyres would look crap on a supercar as they are :laugh: but I was just nit picking when it came to the tyres. The Hubs however could still have been made alot deeper so that a more compact portal gearbox could be made to fit much deeper inside the wheel making the pivot point for the steering be inside the wheel. I think things like that would not affect the versatility of parts.

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Posted (edited)

There are much beds for the Unimog in real.

some you can tilt, some other not.

If you want to build a tilting bed for the Unimog, I would say that you must do it, because it looks pretty good if your Unimog can tilt the bed.

I want to build a tilting bed, too but I didn´t find a good solution for this so maybe if someone has a good solution for this problem he can make instructions of his solution.

by the way

I made a nice seat for the crane operator

post-27386-13397049867436.jpg

Edited by Korni
Posted

Allamp : I absolutly don't see where the improved version of nicasjmo is a multi-link suspension !

I'm refering to the "/\" arms used for the steering which in his improved version does not actually have anything to do with the suspention but the idea of it is heavyly based on multilink suspention and whilst it does improve the geometry so that the pivot point is just inside the wheel, it is actually much less realistic for a Unimog.

Posted

Ok, I understand what you mean but in a certain way, unimog 8110 version is also unrealistic as the pivot point is too far from the wheel ^_^.

Posted

Hi every one

I have been improveing the air compressor of the mog.

Now it features a dual compressor still using the new air pumps and with the same gearing. That can achive a pressure of 250 kPa(2,5bars) until the PF-M stalls.

But it can only get the pressure uptil a about 160 kPa when there is a air tank between the compressor and the lego analogue pressure gauge.

What setup do you think the give the best playablity?

Posted

There simply isn't any other way of moving the lower pivot closer to the wheel than to use 2 pivot arms. That's why it had to be done. I agree that it's not 100% realistic, but it's much closer to the reality of vehicle design, than the lego version.

Posted (edited)

A small update on my unimog upgrade. The pneumatic is still a dual compressor, but last evening I managed to mounth both a pneumatics cylinder(for tipping of the bed) and pf-xl(same place as other have recommend and used) in the back of the truck. This evening (re)built, I spend on undoing a change that call for the driveing pf-xl motor to be placed where the fake engine is. And as if that wasn't trouble enough I also got placed a pf-m in the cabin to control the steering.

The status of of progress is that, it can drive fine. The tipping of the bed has rather not so small problem that when rising the cylinder to tip the bed the cylinder won't raise it just expanded backward. I highly suspent that to because of that cylinder is placed one stud more back than where others have place it.

The steering is extremely slugish but I am gonna implement LPEPower's design for an improved steering befor I make a assessment of it. Hopefully befor the weekend if the parts from BL comes in the mail:cry_happy:

And oh, are there anybody that has a good idea how make the cylinder climb upwards instead of backwards and breaking the truck? I has consider helper springs but hasn't tried that yet.

Edited by jacobkristensen
Posted

There simply isn't any other way of moving the lower pivot closer to the wheel than to use 2 pivot arms. That's why it had to be done. I agree that it's not 100% realistic, but it's much closer to the reality of vehicle design, than the lego version.

Not with the parts they have designed no (unless you make your own portal gearboxes, but they would not be as strong as their single piece version). That's why I think it would have been even better if the wheel hubs where alot deeper (like the real thing) and the portal gearbox be made to fit much deeper into the wheel.

Posted

Yes, but it's important not to forget that the bigger wheels are, the bigger and heavier model is, and the less the parts will resist. So lego would have done two new gears, a new cv-joint and a new portal part to fit into 8110 wheels which inhance cost...

Don't get me wrong, I would also like to see more part to create models closer to the reality but I understand why there are not...

Posted

There's not really anything fundamentally wrong with the hubs, it's the way they are being attached to the rest of the suspension that is not correct.

Posted

There's not really anything fundamentally wrong with the hubs, it's the way they are being attached to the rest of the suspension that is not correct.

nicjasno / LPEPower I have tried youre improved front wheels suspension and steering setup and combined with the ldd post for several pages ago on how to a pf-m along with a slip gear. It will say that it works much better than tlg design:thumbup:

Posted

Anyway I made with my parts. But the younger kids, in my family loved it when I showed them my improved unimog.(Maybe I will do photoshoot and a video of it, with my windows phone later this week).

But is there anybody that has problem with gears slipping, 'gearbox' just behind the wheels. I uses a 8 + 24tooth gear resulting a ratio 1:3. But I still have the problem on the left front wheel the gears sometimes slips a lot. And I suspect it because the gears are very worn down.

Posted

Anyway I made with my parts. But the younger kids, in my family loved it when I showed them my improved unimog.(Maybe I will do photoshoot and a video of it, with my windows phone later this week).

But is there anybody that has problem with gears slipping, 'gearbox' just behind the wheels. I uses a 8 + 24tooth gear resulting a ratio 1:3. But I still have the problem on the left front wheel the gears sometimes slips a lot. And I suspect it because the gears are very worn down.

This could also be, because the universal joint does not fit snugly into the top hole and allows the gears to slip under load. This can't happen with the LPEpower sollution.

Posted

This could also be, because the universal joint does not fit snugly into the top hole and allows the gears to slip under load. This can't happen with the LPEpower sollution.

I am using your idea, so either it can happen or the gears are worn down. And I don't have to time to test it, befor after the weekend (Come to think about it I am not sure I got replacement gears, not used in display models).

Posted

I am using your idea, so either it can happen or the gears are worn down. And I don't have to time to test it, befor after the weekend (Come to think about it I am not sure I got replacement gears, not used in display models).

Can you make a pic of those worn gears?

Posted

Can you make a pic of those worn gears?

Sure, but give me a couple of days. Anyway as far I recalls, the gears got worn in a really old rcx rubber band tracked tank. I uses for some kinde of robotics class codeing a bit assembly for the 8-bit chip:tongue: , anyway the story was that there was a small tournament for the student and the tank had few enginen timing problems.

Posted

Yes, but it's important not to forget that the bigger wheels are, the bigger and heavier model is, and the less the parts will resist. So lego would have done two new gears, a new cv-joint and a new portal part to fit into 8110 wheels which inhance cost...

Don't get me wrong, I would also like to see more part to create models closer to the reality but I understand why there are not...

Who said anything about making the wheels larger? :laugh:

Posted

Who said anything about making the wheels larger? :laugh:

Wheels need to have no bigger diameter than the unimog ones. What we need is for the rim to be larger and tire smaller and we need more inset, or depth, so we can actually fit the suspension bits inside (and a braking system).

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