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Posted

Hi Jason,

and welcom on Eurobricks. Just have a look at post 1322 in this thread, there is explained how to use a servo motor for steering. And somewhere in this thread it is explained how to fit a xl-motor for the drive train...

Pat

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Posted

Hi all,

I was wondering if somebody here could give me some advice for a modification to my 8110 that I am planing: I would like to drive the rear PTO with a separate remote controlled M motor. The motor would fit nicely in the rear part of the frame except for the connector that is used to connect the panhard rod to the frame. I think this is a 92907 connector. I am now looking for a clever and stable solution to attach the pall pin for the panhard rod in a way that does not require any space on the insight of the frame.

Reiner

Posted

Turning it around will not help as it is the inner part that blocks the space:

8110RearAxle.jpg

I need something that is fixed to the outside of the dark gray liftarm and does not consume any space on the frame inside.

Posted

Having read through the vast list in this thread I'm pondering what to do to my unimog ... at the moment it has the grey bed on the back ... I'm thinking of getting some more plates to put the plow on the front (undecided on colour at the moment) ... but I've read about steering/suspension mods on here and seen someone has made an instruction book ... is this steering/suspension mod worth doing ? what is wrong with the official set-up ? and if i do it does anyone know if i need extra parts and does the instructions show you how far you have to break down the existing chassis to make the update ?

Posted

Does anybody have a description on how to replace the steering with a PF Servo Motor? Pat-Ard has posted some pictures in post #1322 but I can't really figure out how to mount the servo in a way that it doesn't collide with any parts on the frame - especially the lower 16 tooth gear that drives the 4-cylinder motor model.

Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

sometime ago I got a request via mail from a guy who saw my Unimog at my Brickshelf folder (http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=516426). His name was "Schwarze GummiEnte" and he asked me if he could use my pictures for his own modification. Because he has no own account on Eurobricks I decided to present some of the pictures he sent to me. This request was much more then a reward to me. Furthermore I think it's worth to share it. The shapes of the cab are very interesting and he designed the doors very well.

o6qydbg4ahow.jpg

658kn8id83z.jpg

7tsveuxivica.jpg

mdjmjgdhwh.jpg

kdts1fc33hom.jpg

3mtsyrysenb8.jpg

9ivdq74eco.jpg

Stefan

Edited by stefan_betula_pendula
Posted

I made some modifications to add servo steering:

unimog_improvements_chassis1.jpg

The axle it self is not that hard:

unimog_improvements_alxe1.jpg

unimog_improvements_alxe2.jpg

The chassis also needs some changes:

On this picture you can also see that I lowered the attach point for the steering link by one studd. Altough still not 100% perfect, the axle now stays better in the center.

unimog_improvements_chassis2.jpg

Some additional pics for the chassis:

http://www.brickshel...ents_instr1.jpg

http://www.brickshel...ents_instr2.jpg

And a small LDD file:

http://www.brickshel...mprovements.lxf

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

With the steering issues the Unimog has, I decided to try to make my own portal axles with the Kingpin axis 1 stud closer to the wheel. This combined with slowing the steering down by increasing the length of the steering arm has dramatically improved the steering of the mog on terrain. It is now playable! I know nicjasno made a solution, but I did not have the pieces!

The pros of this: Very stable, strong and uses fairly common pieces and requires no modifications to the chassis. The cons: it does use some pieces not originally on the axle, the wheel is not as well secured (the axles can pull out of the upright), and the turning radius is bad (about what the original set is supposed to have with the little gray pieces). Altogether, I am very satisfied with how this turned out!

portal1.jpg

portal2.jpg

portal3.jpg

portal4.jpg

Note that the dark gray pieces securing the shocks can (and should) be replaced with by the way that they are originally secured (I didnt have enough of these http://www.brickset.com/parts/?part=4610371).

  • 2 weeks later...

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