JunkstyleGio Posted August 19, 2011 Posted August 19, 2011 The wheels are the same as the regular but black (Bricklink) and these parts (Brcklink)added. connected with a 3l axle. Closed unimog may not be that common but they do exist. Quote
Nazgarot Posted August 20, 2011 Posted August 20, 2011 Did some tinkering after a friend visited the other day. He was quite impressed with the unimog but asked me why there wasn't a "closed" frame on the loading bed. Well there is now! Nice. Small but efficient mods. Makes the model grow in my eyes. -ED- Quote
flyz Posted August 20, 2011 Posted August 20, 2011 What's the part num for ur black wheels?Also u don't see closed backs that often on a mog ,the flatbed is very common on them so Lego got it spot on. 44772 on BL. Quote
Aqualize Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) Finally had time this weekend to build the 8110 :) Regarding the stiff steering. I sinned... I modified the part that causes the problem ("Red Technic, Pin Long with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Stop Bush"). A snap-off blade utility knife and 10 minutes and the Unimog was "fixed". Edited August 21, 2011 by Aqualize Quote
efferman Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 i have implemented my variosteering idea in the base of my cab Quote
olaf9198 Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 lol i sa it a 1 a go on youtube are there also instructions Quote
efferman Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 i could make instructions, but it needs massive modifications at the chassis and the cab to get enough space. the serial cab is to narrow and short. i must pump it up to the scale dimensions. The chassis is to short in front of the front axle and i had to shorten the fake engine 1 stud and move it one stud back and down. Quote
olaf9198 Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 i could make instructions, but it needs massive modifications at the chassis and the cab to get enough space. the serial cab is to narrow and short. i must pump it up to the scale dimensions. The chassis is to short in front of the front axle and i had to shorten the fake engine 1 stud and move it one stud back and down. sounds not easy Quote
efferman Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 sounds not easy yes, much tries and errors. an example: Building the chassis with two small pneumatic cylinders to lift the cab, and beginning with the cab. works then implement the vario steering and the two small cylinders are not powerfull enough. currently iam modify the front of the chassis to get the place for two big cylinders. and iam waiting for more orange parts Quote
Henkl Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 I made a box today fitting in the back of the Unimog. It's a box for carrying wood chips. The only problem is that I'm not sure where the entrance is for the wood chips, the front of the back. If it's the back, then you will have to remove the chipper before tipping and I have to make a 3 point lifunit. If it's on the front I will have to make a pipe over the cab. The chipper is the next thing to make. I haven't got any pictures yet, they come when I am finished. Quote
DLuders Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) @ Henkl: I have operated a Wood Chipper, and they are common in logging operations here in the Pacific Northwest. The open part of the chip "box" is facing rearward. The chipper is towed, and the branches are places in the back (rear) of the chipper to shoot the chips forward into the box. Edited August 21, 2011 by DLuders Quote
olaf9198 Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 yes, much tries and errors. an example: Building the chassis with two small pneumatic cylinders to lift the cab, and beginning with the cab. works then implement the vario steering and the two small cylinders are not powerfull enough. currently iam modify the front of the chassis to get the place for two big cylinders. and iam waiting for more orange parts you can try the smal cilinders at the front of it or at the back so the weight of the cab is on the the pins of the front where the cab is attacht to the chassis Quote
efferman Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 you can try the small cylinders at the front of it or at the back, so the weight of the cab is on the the pins of the front where the cab is attacht to the chassis sorry, but i dont understand what you had written. btw. the big cylinders are implemented at this time. works very smooth and easy in combination with the compressor Quote
olaf9198 Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 sorry, but i dont understand what you had written. btw. the big cylinders are implemented at this time. works very smooth and easy in combination with the compressor al right then for get what i have say Quote
davidmull Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 (edited) http://www.directupload.net/ What wheels are these? Not sure if that picture works,there the really big wheels on Denny's model earlier in this tread! Edited August 22, 2011 by davidmull Quote
olaf9198 Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 http://www.directupload.net/ What wheels are these? Not sure if that picture works,there the really big wheels on Denny's model earlier in this tread! do you meen the powerpuller wheels Quote
tripletschiee Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Here is the first mower: Build by BS-User Heino178. See more pictures in his Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard Quote
Henkl Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 @DLuders. We have got a chipper too but I will try to make one at the back of the Unimog or at the front whit a crane to enter the wood. Work is in progress, pictures will follow. Quote
BrickWild Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 That's one fantastic mower attachment! Someday I'll turn mine into a camper or even a hearse! Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 Dont let Allanp see that dark gray/light gray thing lifting that mower arm. Quote
Dutch_EE Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 I'm wondering how he split the PTO in two. Is there a clutch somewhere to switch between turning and lifting the mowing-arm ? Quote
tripletschiee Posted August 24, 2011 Author Posted August 24, 2011 I'm wondering how he split the PTO in two. Is there a clutch somewhere to switch between turning and lifting the mowing-arm ? I am not quite sure, if he really splits it. I think he just uses the turning table as a basis to mount the lifting arm. Regards, Gerhard Quote
davidmull Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 For anyone interested iv just nearly finished motorizing my unimog,i went by a youtube clip i seen and its the best iv seen yet! Works great and the mog has very good torque and the steering works like a charm too, You will see the parts and instruction in the clip,the best thing was where we placed the motor its nearly like lego intended it to be there and best of all its still 4X4 :) Id even go as far as saying that it would be great outdoor on offroad :) Thanks to 1plaz62 for sharing this. Heres the clip!maybe someone can fix the link to come up properly! Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 (edited) Heres the clip!maybe someone can fix the link to come up properly! TA DA Edited August 24, 2011 by Alasdair Ryan Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 Did also some testing this morning on the RC-mod by 1plaz62. It does work like a charm. Now i've got to order me some extra motors and RC-things. Quote
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