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Posted

Hello Stefan! Besides the of course very informing pictures in brickshelf I want to ask you if it is possible to get some mor pics of your unimog. I´m trying to rebuild it since a week. It would be very helpful to get an overview about the size and some "internal" details like the double air pump and the realising of the drive.The biggest secret for me is how to achieve the dipping in three directions.

Posted

Hello Stefan! Besides the of course very informing pictures in brickshelf I want to ask you if it is possible to get some mor pics of your unimog. I´m trying to rebuild it since a week. It would be very helpful to get an overview about the size and some "internal" details like the double air pump and the realising of the drive.The biggest secret for me is how to achieve the dipping in three directions.

even not being Stefan, i will point you nevertheless to my posting where i have described in detail (and with a link to even more detail pics on brickshelf) the 3-side tilting bed: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1675#entry1939279

Maybe it helps you a little bit until Stefan can answer...double pump is very easy to built - just have a close look at the posting mentioned above ;-)

Posted (edited)

6. Adding a PTO pass trough for the crane - switchable between turning the crane and passing through the PTO:

IMG_0892_1%20Kopie.jpg

PTO 1 has same speed as the PTO of the chassis, PTO 2 is slightly geared down (12:20)

This enhances the flexibility of the Unimog a lot beause now you can add any PTO powered trailer even with back-attached crane...

well, yesterday i had two lessons learned:

1. There are no better test-persons than children if want to know if your model/mechanism really works - works under all circumstances ;-)

2. bracing bracing bracing

Endless slewing the crane is not possible with current construction where all tubings are guided through the turntable because they will twist... but one complete turn around should be possible, 180 degree in one direction, 180 in the other...

Well, with the pass-through above these things get slightly worse because the pass-through gearbox further reduces the available room for the tubings below the turntable so slewing becomes a little bit harder after about 120 degree... The problem is not the motor power, it is strong enough, the problem is, that from that point on the restistance of the slewing is stronger than the pins which fix the two t-pieces on to the grey frame, the two t-pieces which bears the axle with the worm gear...so after ~ 120 degree slewing the worm gear does not slew the turntable but (cause of less restistance) moves itselfs and this power is strong enough to push the t-pieces from its pins... and if you have a look at the picture above, it is obvious why: because the t-pieces are not braces against this horizontal forces...we need somethings which prevents the black t-pieces (and of course also the axle itself) from moving ... well, after recognizing the problem finding a solution was quite easy:

IMG_1299_1.jpg

1. it is necessary to prevent the axle itself from moving: this has been done by replacing the original axle with a 8L with stop and the stop is on the right side between the t-piece and the 4x2 liftarm - the latter one prevents the axle from moving to the right and the stop axle itself prevents itself from moving to the left - fine

2. Now the outermost liftarms (on the left side the 4x2 liftarm which replaces now the t-piece on this side, on the right side the additional 4x2 liftarm) have to be braced so that they can not move outward --> a simple 11L black liftarm is perfect suited for this...

Now the worm gear has no chance anymore to move on its axis and therefore it MUST slew the turntable and the whole stuff works as well as with the original slewing construction...

Lessons learned: always brace your gear-trains all will work as intended ;-)

EDIT: replaced all links and pictures from brickshelf by bricksave

Edited by Kumbbl
Posted (edited)

today the flashing beacons arrived i ordered by EB member Zmei_gorini4 (Kirill) - they work perfectly and look very good - IMHO they are worth the price...good job, Kirill! :thumbup:

IMG_1313_1.jpg

For the motherbord of the beacons and for all cables running from left to right or vice versa i have made a simple casing at the roof:

IMG_1314_1.jpg

Just a second DBG 9L liftarm mounted on the roof panel (the first one is already needed for fixing the accu), then wiring all cables between the two 9L liftarms and then fixing them by some thin 5L DBG liftarms which are mounted on the both 9L liftarms... cause of the very neutral color DBG this casing is quite invisible from outside...

EDIT: replacey pictures from brickshelf by bricksave

Edited by Kumbbl
Posted (edited)

So I finally have gotten around to documenting my modifications to the 8110. This is an insanely popular model, and it was tons of fun to play with. My modifications are much different than what has been done in the past. I took an inline 3 pneumatic engine and installed it in the Unimog. Check out my links to see the results!

http://mocpages.com/moc.php/395645

Here is a pic of the my Unimog. I don't know why the video won't post. It has worked in the past. Sorry for the confusion... just follow the links above....

Edited by Blakbird
: Fixed video embedding.
Posted (edited)

Back in June I designed and built a front mounted lawn mower attachment for my LEGO Technic Unimog U400 - Set 8110 (http://paulstechnic....lawn-mower.html). This used the front PTO to move the blades and the front PPTO was used to raise / lower the mower deck. At the time I was fairly happy with it but did think it was a bit bare and basic. I also didn't like using the front PPTO as this meant over time the mower deck would drop by itself.

I recently redesigned and rebuilt a dozer blade for my Unimog U400, since doing this I have been thinking about having another try at a mower attachment, this would fit in well with the "civil services" theme of some of my other Unimog attachments. While researching this I had the goal of using a LA to raise and lower this instead of pneumatics, I also wanted it to be much more "professional" looking as far as the design and colours went.

The first issue I faced was how to make two functions work off the single PTO on the rear of the Unimog. I started thinking about using a simple two way switch to split the PTO at the rear of the Unimog; I played around with this in LDD but decided it would look stupid. My next idea was to turn the blades using the rear PTO and have a handle at the top to raise and lower the mower using a LA. After thinking about this some more and playing around with it I decided I was not happy with this idea either. In the end I took an idea off set 9393 which uses a drive off the rear wheels to turn the blades, in my case the wheels are attached to the mower deck itself. The flashing light on the top of the mower also rotates as the blades turn.

Late last week I sat down and started the building process, this went well and over a few nights / Saturday afternoon I got the mower deck built with the wheels turning the blades. I also built the mounting system to the rear of the Unimog using the "standard" mounting points to allow this to be easily removed if required, this uses the rear PTO to raise and lower the mower deck. This also has a pivot point at the front of the mower deck which allows this to turn as the Unimog goes around corners.

While I was testing this I found that the mower deck was being lifted high above the Unimog and was swinging around as it was driven. At this point I left it for the day. Last night while in bed I woke up with an idea, instead of lifting the mower deck the full height I could add a hinge which would allow this to bend as it was lifted, it would still have good ground clearance but would not end up so high off the ground. This morning I made some changes based on my idea and I was very pleased to be able to get this to work how I had hoped. Now as it lifts it bends which works much better.

Features are:

- Lift and carry of mower deck (rear PTO / large LA)

- swivel point for steering

- Working mower blades (driven via rear wheels)

- Rotating light (driven via rear wheels)

After all the work I have put in to this I decided that this deserved something different when it came time to take some photos of it, most of the photos below (and the video) were taken in my backyard, sort of the "real life" environment that you would find this being used in real life.

Here is a taster photo:

UnimogU400-Pullalongmower_August2014%2B(21).JPG

More photos and a video of it in use can be found here:

http://paulstechnic....wer-august.html

Edited by Paul B
Posted

So I finally have gotten around to documenting my modifications to the 8110. This is an insanely popular model, and it was tons of fun to play with. My modifications are much different than what has been done in the past. I took an inline 3 pneumatic engine and installed it in the Unimog. Check out my links to see the results!

http://mocpages.com/moc.php/395645

Here is a pic of the my Unimog. I don't know why the video won't post. It has worked in the past. Sorry for the confusion... just follow the links above....

Blakbird, you edited my pic above so that it would actually post. I have read the forum posts and even have an open post to learn how to better post my pics so that I do not have to post my whole MOCpages when referring to my builds. What did you do to fix my post? Any recommendations on how to post pics?

Posted

Blakbird, you edited my pic above so that it would actually post. I have read the forum posts and even have an open post to learn how to better post my pics so that I do not have to post my whole MOCpages when referring to my builds. What did you do to fix my post? Any recommendations on how to post pics?

I only fixed your video. All I had to do was change https: to http:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

One of my recent attachments. I do lack a proper camera at this time.

I was waiting to make this till my order of orange panels came in from Lego. Its still needs some tweaking but it works. It can be removed with a few pins, I did have to add a hard point to upper area of the side, otherwise the mog stayed stock. It uses two pneumatic pistons, one allows it to fold back and the other lifts it up. For looks I have the long axle that can slide when it is folded for transport. Not seen is a wheel at the left edge of the plow, it makes opening and closing smoother.

sideplow02.jpg

I also have a skip loader that mounts on the back based off the

42024, Container Truck

, a skidder grapple and field plow.

Posted (edited)

Thanks! It seems I can't register to Brickshelf, but here goes a few pictures I put to Flickr:

how you fix the lift on the unimog? :o

why removed pictures? nobody knows what i meaning

Edited by SimsonS53
: Removed quoted images.
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Today I want to introduce my Unimog mod. It is very similar to Stefans blue one and he helped me a lot to finish it with ldd files and tipps. So it is time to say thank you very much Stefan!The tires are from Ansmann (bought in Austria at "Der Schweighofer")The model is fully RC controlled, the bed moves in three directions.Two pneumatic pumps and a air tank are responisble for the air to move the bed and the equipment.The springs are a little bit harder than the original one but unfortunatley they are still too soft. Now I am working on the winter equipment.

post-126430-0-20583900-1414745904_thumb.jpg

Edited by xx1Andi
Posted

Man that looks like fun, should i get one? is it fun to build? i keep getting mixed messages from the people on this and other forums, but you all seem to like them and it might be the final push i need to purchase my own, especially now that they are getting hard to get.

Posted

It is my favourite technic model. If you have the opportunity to get one for not-insane price, just get it. I built it several time and will do it again and again. For me it's one of the best building experience in Technic :)

Posted

Oh it will be expensive here, $300+ AUD but i can lay-buy it, its why i wanted some must-buy quotes as its only gonna get more expensive on ebay and such,

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