Lasse's Model Team Construction Yard

[efferman]

It is always good with challenges. I will work on the first part (8x4, 4 wheel steering):

what an epic concrete mixer. i hoping for instructions

[Lasse D]

Thanks guys!

Uhh, that looks like a racing truck - but do you think it will beat an Combine? I have my doubt!

A fantastic model, Lasse! I've always liked your MOCs. Especially your SNOT details!

Don't worry about winning the race. This is a cement truck!

How wide is that truck? Because I have figured out how to make a 7-wide steered and suspended axle ;)

I always build 12 wide in this thread. 14 Wide is more suited for the wheel size, but requires a lot of additional bricks.

Wow that was quick! It looks awesome!

Thanks, but this picture is actually from July! I have been working on a lightweight and functional dispenser system for almost half a year now!

Here is a drawing of what I came up with:

I hope it's clear enough, unfortunately I don't have any CAD programs nor the correct parts to build it.

So it's pretty much like the current Technic Quad bike? There is a tiny issue with the 32013+2736 connection which might get pulled out if the weight is too high.

Have you looked into springs and how they fit into this design? I did a similar suspension setup for the second last race truck, but it didn't have springs:

[skppo]

Sadly the steering hub barely moves when ball-pins are used. Even less than with the matching suspension arms.

Edited November 29, 2013 by skppo

[ms09]

As a chinese lego technic fan, it is never too late to see this post.

[Seasider]

Wow these Trucks are amazing ... just read this thread for the first time

Do you do instructions for all these ?

Look like they're all IR Remote too ?

Might have to splash some cash on Bricklink at some point !!!!!!!

[Alasdair Ryan]

Do you do instructions for all these ?

I think he has made instrutions for most of his trucks.

[Junpei]

I think you can use rubber bands or possibly hockey springs for the suspension. Yes, it is like the quad bike suspension, but it's about 5 studs shorter.

Sadly the steering hub barely moves when ball-pins are used. Even less than with the maching suspension arms.

What do you mean by that? Are you talking about the turning radius or movement of the suspension?

[skppo]

What do you mean by that? Are you talking about the turning radius or movement of the suspension?

The turning radius. It will be bad, like really bad. These hubs are kinda badly designed in my opinion, the ball socket in them is too "deep" and causes very limted movement.

The ball-pin has this sort of disk between the ball and the axle that hits the edge of the hub. I've tried using them like you've drawn, trust me it is dissapointing.

[Junpei]

Ok, well that kind of sucks. Is this the thing you're talking about?

If that's true, that's a pretty poorly designed piece...

[skppo]

Ok, well that kind of sucks. Is this the thing you're talking about?

If that's true, that's a pretty poorly designed piece...

Yep. Thankfully the upcoming snowmobile has some new mid-scale suspension elements

They might be too long for this scale though

[Technyk32231]

Ok, well that kind of sucks. Is this the thing you're talking about?

If that's true, that's a pretty poorly designed piece...

Try using engine piston rods. I've had a lot of success with those.

[Junpei]

Wow, I can't believe I didn't think about that, that's genius! :thumbup: Could you maybe post some pics?

[Lasse D]

Wow, I can't believe I didn't think about that, that's genius! :thumbup: Could you maybe post some pics?

I too, feel like an idiot for not realizing this...

BTW.

I will have to finish a comissioned build before I can continue with the concrete mixer.

[Technyk32231]

Wow, I can't believe I didn't think about that, that's genius! :thumbup: Could you maybe post some pics?

I'll try, if I can find the small wheel hubs. I actually have the whole thing built already. I have the pistons aligned as if in an engine, and an axle goint through the middle. There is a 2l liftarm on the end of the axle which moves the steering back and forth. The tie rods use modified parts, however. I use the end of a 6L link with a 1L protruding axle in a toggle joint. The toggle joints attach to the steering arm. The whole assembly is only 5 studs wide, but it is very difficult to spring.

[Junpei]

Awesome, at this scale you can just use rubber bands, unless you consider rubber bands for suspension 'cheating', of course. If you really don't want to use rubber bands, you can use hockey springs.

[DrJB]

... you can use hockey springs.

Those were rather rare and expensive on flea-bay ... Managed to collect few of them, but have not found use for them yet ...

[Junpei]

Yeah, I was lucky enough to find a big hockey set at Goodwill, I think it came with 5 or so. But I think the spring is much too stiff for small scale suspension like that.

[Lasse D]

My plan is currently to use hockey springs for the top arm and the connectors by View PostTwentyLeggedHen. Motor pistons for the lower arms. This will allow for a crossaxle connection in the top where there is no risk for pulling the assembly under heavy load.

[Lasse D]

I have been working on a new mechanism for the cement truck. It is now able to dispense both GBC balls, minifig heads, 1x1 round bricks and 1x1 round plates.

I still have to improve the sturdiness of the rear end and build a cover for the drum, but it's slowly getting there.

The interior is nice and simple:

I have also gone to Legoland simply to buy a set for the letters of the front:

Edited December 30, 2013 by Lasse D

[Good old Lego builder]

It looks great! As allways!

[Technyk32231]

I'll try, if I can find the small wheel hubs. I actually have the whole thing built already. I have the pistons aligned as if in an engine, and an axle goint through the middle. There is a 2l liftarm on the end of the axle which moves the steering back and forth. The tie rods use modified parts, however. I use the end of a 6L link with a 1L protruding axle in a toggle joint. The toggle joints attach to the steering arm. The whole assembly is only 5 studs wide, but it is very difficult to spring.

I got it. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/technyk32/Miscellaneous/Forum/micro_independent_suspension.lxf

Cut a 6L link so that you get two end parts with a 1L axle coming out of each. Attach it to the hubs and tie rods.

[Lasse D]

I have started designing the barrel. Here is a moc-up of the design without coloring. The final design should not be studs-up, but I will focus on adding the stripes first.

Up next will be some attempts at coloring.

[Lasse D]

And this is my very first attempt at coloring the barrel. I think it has turned out rather nicely:

Now I will start to play with the variables so that I can get the shape just right.

[Hrafn]

Now I will start to play with the variables so that I can get the shape just right.

Are you familiar with the Lowell Sphere? Bruce Lowell's technique can be adapted to spheroids.

[Lasse D]

Yeah. He does a lot of advertising for it on reddit. Using jumpers is a nice way to improve a rounded object with small details and it really works well on that one you show there.

As for the cement truck I have done the following today.

First I tucked the ends in a little, giving it more defined slopes:

I cut out a quarter so that it could be used for the drum:

Putting four such quarters together and you get:

The only place where you could add jumpers would be in the front, but that would weaken the construction for little gain.