Aqualize Posted August 11, 2011 Posted August 11, 2011 Indeed, I am very excited about this solution. Mainly because it doesn't need modifications itself, it doesn't damage your Lego and they can be easily removed to restore your tread links. And the diameter of the smaller section allows you to fit it nicely into a technic pin hole, which leaves room for other applications (base of a model for example). Hopefully I can test it for real tomorrow. I need to build myself a simple testmodel, but I think I will manage. I will also make a short video if the results are promising. I got them at a Dutch hardware store for about 15 eurocents a piece, depending on the volume of course. You can probably find these in the US too. If not, and if there's more interest in these caps, I can make a shipment to a US Bricklink store, so they can distribute them in the US. Or send it directly, but I am not sure what the shipping costs will be. We can figure something out. First let's see whether they do provide a real solution! What is the intended usage for them? So I know what and where to look for this kind of things. The prospect of putting rubberbands on a few hundred tread links is not so appealing... I guess these are a lot faster to mount :) Quote
Jim Posted August 12, 2011 Author Posted August 12, 2011 What is the intended usage for them? So I know what and where to look for this kind of things. The prospect of putting rubberbands on a few hundred tread links is not so appealing... I guess these are a lot faster to mount :) They are, for example, applied to the bottom of household appliances. However, there might be a million other applications, which I am not familiar with. Here they are! I hope to find the time to do some tests today!! Otherwise the results will follow asap. Quote
Jim Posted August 12, 2011 Author Posted August 12, 2011 O yes! Working like a charm!! Will post a video soon! Quote
Koppejan Posted August 12, 2011 Posted August 12, 2011 (edited) O yes! Working like a charm!! Will post a video soon! Is the video there yet? I am very curious ted! Edited August 12, 2011 by Koppejan Quote
Aqualize Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 Still awaiting video :) A few days ago I received 240 thread links (bricklink order) adding to the 74 from 8043... I've started building small machines but the grip is a problem. I went to the biggest book store (and office materials) I know of around here but they didn't have rubber bands in size "10" (as someone wrote was ideal) and they couldn't special order them :( I went to a hardware store but they didn't have these. Neither could I find it on ebay. Gekke Ted, on the photo with lots of these there is a label. Is it some article # for this items or names? Googling such information can sometimes give results on finding the product, any help with that would be very much appreciated :) Quote
Jim Posted August 17, 2011 Author Posted August 17, 2011 Still awaiting video :) A few days ago I received 240 thread links (bricklink order) adding to the 74 from 8043... I've started building small machines but the grip is a problem. I went to the biggest book store (and office materials) I know of around here but they didn't have rubber bands in size "10" (as someone wrote was ideal) and they couldn't special order them :( I went to a hardware store but they didn't have these. Neither could I find it on ebay. Gekke Ted, on the photo with lots of these there is a label. Is it some article # for this items or names? Googling such information can sometimes give results on finding the product, any help with that would be very much appreciated :) I am truly sorry for the delay I do have a video but it's hard to control the model and make a decent video at the same time. I have shot a video with my phone mounted on the model, but I am not sure whether it's useful. Another problem was that my batteries where nearly dead. So two issues; I had mounted two M motors, one for each tread. Driving the model was great, but steering it was a problem. Not enough torque, maybe due to a lack of battery power. Changing the motors to two XL motors resulted in great movability and turnability. So making a larger model would definitely need two XL motors. I will replace the batteries with fully loaded ones and see if I can get someone to steer it, while I make a movie. Also I like to do some tests with an NXT brick and two NXT motors. And I will see if there's an article ID somewhere on the bag. Quote
davidmull Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 I am truly sorry for the delay I do have a video but it's hard to control the model and make a decent video at the same time. I have shot a video with my phone mounted on the model, but I am not sure whether it's useful. Another problem was that my batteries where nearly dead. So two issues; I had mounted two M motors, one for each tread. Driving the model was great, but steering it was a problem. Not enough torque, maybe due to a lack of battery power. Changing the motors to two XL motors resulted in great movability and turnability. So making a larger model would definitely need two XL motors. I will replace the batteries with fully loaded ones and see if I can get someone to steer it, while I make a movie. Also I like to do some tests with an NXT brick and two NXT motors. And I will see if there's an article ID somewhere on the bag. Does it not look funny with all these non lego parts sticking out of the tracks? Quote
Jim Posted August 17, 2011 Author Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) Does it not look funny with all these non lego parts sticking out of the tracks? It does look a bit funny, but the parts are transparent and evenly distributed. So I would say it's acceptable. Especially when you take into consideration that some models just need a lot of grip to work properly. So it's functionality prevails over esthetics. I am truly sorry for the delay I do have a video but it's hard to control the model and make a decent video at the same time. I have shot a video with my phone mounted on the model, but I am not sure whether it's useful. Another problem was that my batteries where nearly dead. So two issues; I had mounted two M motors, one for each tread. Driving the model was great, but steering it was a problem. Not enough torque, maybe due to a lack of battery power. Changing the motors to two XL motors resulted in great movability and turnability. So making a larger model would definitely need two XL motors. I will replace the batteries with fully loaded ones and see if I can get someone to steer it, while I make a movie. Also I like to do some tests with an NXT brick and two NXT motors. And I will see if there's an article ID somewhere on the bag. I have uploaded a little sample (better than nothing) http://youtu.be/Tx0N4rJBi4w Edited August 17, 2011 by Gekke Ted Quote
Jim Posted August 17, 2011 Author Posted August 17, 2011 What is the intended usage for them? So I know what and where to look for this kind of things. The prospect of putting rubberbands on a few hundred tread links is not so appealing... I guess these are a lot faster to mount :) In Dutch it's called a Glasbuffer, which translates to....surprisingly.....a glass buffer. So they are also used as a buffer between glass and some other material. Use Google to search for "glasbuffer" and you will lots of images. Quote
Aqualize Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 In Dutch it's called a Glasbuffer, which translates to....surprisingly.....a glass buffer. So they are also used as a buffer between glass and some other material. Use Google to search for "glasbuffer" and you will lots of images. With "glass buffer" I found one listing on ebay, but they are the wrong size. I found materials.nl / schepro.com with the same picture. Maybe where you got your buffer's from IRL. I put the item in the basket and when I switched to english language of the site it says it has a €150 minimum order value, and I had to pay that plus shipping (total €175). Safe to say I didn't sign up to see if were they can send it abroad... Thanks anyway. Quote
Jim Posted August 17, 2011 Author Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) With "glass buffer" I found one listing on ebay, but they are the wrong size. I found materials.nl / schepro.com with the same picture. Maybe where you got your buffer's from IRL. I put the item in the basket and when I switched to english language of the site it says it has a €150 minimum order value, and I had to pay that plus shipping (total €175). Safe to say I didn't sign up to see if were they can send it abroad... Thanks anyway. Those are the ones! Let's see if I can find my order information... ...found it. Normal price is 8 cents a piece (7.5 with an MOQ of 100), excluding 19% Vat and a minimum shipping of 15 Euros. My order of 500 pieces added up to 60 Euros (37.5 + 19% Vat + 15 S&H), resulting in 12 cents a piece. Wonder what shipping abroad (US of A right?) would cost. We can look into this. Edited August 17, 2011 by Gekke Ted Quote
Aqualize Posted August 17, 2011 Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) Those are the ones! Let's see if I can find my order information... ...found it. Normal price is 8 cents a piece (7.5 with an MOQ of 100), excluding 19% Vat and a minimum shipping of 15 Euros. My order of 500 pieces added up to 60 Euros (37.5 + 19% Vat + 15 S&H), resulting in 12 cents a piece. Wonder what shipping abroad (US of A right?) would cost. We can look into this. I'm from Sweden, just updated the profile with that now. edit: To not go off-topic and against EB selling policy I've continued via PM after reading the below post Edited August 17, 2011 by Aqualize Quote
Jim Posted August 17, 2011 Author Posted August 17, 2011 I'm from Sweden, just updated the profile with that now. Shipping to Sweden will cost about 10 Euros up to 2 kg. So you can get 500 for around 70 Euro. Or 200 for around 45 Euro. I am willing to do the shipping for you. If there are more people interested, it might be better to open a Bricklink shop. However, I am not familiar with the costs and regulations etc. Quote
DLuders Posted March 25, 2013 Posted March 25, 2013 [bUMP] almightyarjen posted this about "These "glassbuffers" [which] are made of soft squeezable plastic and fit just nice and thight into Lego Technic holes. Therefore they are ideal to use on a caterpillar track to get an extreme amount of traction! For sale at my Bricklink shop: http://www.bricklink...itemID=42698689 ": Quote
TasV Posted March 27, 2013 Posted March 27, 2013 I was impressed with this: Image is clickable to source. And also noticed this: Quote
gmshades Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 I know I'm reviving an old topic, but I have been looking for rubber bands in the US to do this. I found using the "Loom Bands" for making rubber band bracelets work perfect! And they only cost a few bucks for a pack of 350 of them. That's enough for the bulldozer and 2 excavators. Quote
Jim Posted January 13, 2014 Author Posted January 13, 2014 If you are reviving an old topic, at least tell us where you found them Quote
yepyep14u2know Posted January 13, 2014 Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Michaels in the US advertises them. For a package of 600 the cost is $2.99 http://www.michaels....default,pg.html And Hobby Lobby has various colors. 500 pcs for $3.99 http://shop.hobbylob...m bands&F_ALL=Y I'll probably head to Hobby Lobby tonight to pick some up for my ultimate 8043 and 42006 Edited January 13, 2014 by yepyep14u2know Quote
gmshades Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 My wife works at CVS, and they stock them there as well. It's the new hottest thing for kids, so anywhere there are toys at a store, you'd probably find them. Quote
dr_spock Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 They are sold at Mastermind toy stores in Ontario, Canada. Comes in many colours including pink. Quote
BenBrickBud Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) This is a quick and dirty solution for adding grip to your treads. My son and I came up with this "solution" earlier today. Go ahead and hack away. I'm sure someone can do something interesting with this idea. Here's my description from the YouTube page: Use rubber bands of similar width and length. These #33 size bands were picked up at an office supply store. Cut and lace them through the holes of the tread as shown in the video. Secure them by simply making double or triple knots at the ends of the rubber bands. Make sure the knots are on the inside of the tread. Keep the tension snug, but loose enough so the rubber bands not bind the treads. While far from perfect and not very pretty, they provide a lot more traction than bare tracks/treads while still allowing the vehicle to spin. Have fun and good luck. Edited January 1, 2015 by BenBrickBud Quote
goggel Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) There also an official solution for this issue: EV3 Track Rubber Elements/Blinklink, although it's pretty expensive... Edited January 1, 2015 by goggel Quote
BenBrickBud Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 There also an official solution for this issue: EV3 Track Rubber Elements/Blinklink, although it's pretty expensive... Yes - and it is pretty expensive! We were trying to come up with something simple and relatively effective. The Lego produced solution also would appear to result in a very rough ride. The laced rubber band solution fits our needs for a tiny fraction of Lego's product. On another note, has anyone tried using Sugru to modify tracks? Quote
piterx Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 what about this solution? might not be perfect for flat surfaces but it's perfect for snow and dirt :) Quote
Jim Posted January 2, 2015 Author Posted January 2, 2015 I came up with this solution. It's cheap and it does work reasonably well. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.