Nazgarot Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 Hi, I suggest coating the tracks with Plastidip. Its a kind of paintable rubber. I use it to waterproof electronics, and even have a friend who painted his Nisan Patrol with the stuff to prevent scratches while driving off road... I will try it and give you some feedback when I can find the time. -ED- Quote
goggel Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) This could be a pretty good solution. Problem might be the bond between plasti dip and the the threads, especially around the links. Edited January 2, 2015 by goggel Quote
Nazgarot Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Hi, I've started a test of using "Plasti Dip" to increase traction on tread links. I got this idea while reading this thread; "Solving grip problem with Link Treads" I normally use "Plasti Dip" for waterproofing RC equipment and electronics, but have heard of lots of other uses as well. Its a rubber solution that can be painted on almost any surface and creates a thin rubber film when it's applied. It sticks very well and is possible to remove by making a small cut and dragging it off whatever material it's applied to. I built this small MOC to test it, and spray painted one of its tracks with a thin layer of Plasti Dip (from spray can). It can be applied in several layers (half hour between each application), but I wanted to try a single layer first. I bent the track backwards so that there was no space between the links and sprayed it on. It has to dry for 4 hours before I can test it, but I will update this thread when it's dry. Full size pic: http://postimg.org/image/p1wtat57n/ I made a small preliminary test to see how bad the untreated tracks are, and they are pretty awful... I will update the thread as the test goes along, but I would be interested in suggestions for doing a more scientific test of traction, I was thinking of making a small sled to drag behind with some weight on. Any suggestions will be considered. Update: The tread is dry! It's hard to see a difference, but you can see that one track is less shiny, and its easy to feel the difference. Link to full size pic: http://postimg.org/image/lwl9q8ybt/ Video of test with one coated track: In this picture every second tread link on each track is coated. You can clearly see stuff sticking to the coated links. Link to full size pic: http://postimg.org/image/k628orgsp/ Video of test with every second link coated: Conclusion: Plasti Dip works!! And you can easily adjust the level of traction by swapping out every second, every third and so on... Remember, this is with only a single layer coat. It is possible to use several layers! I will upload a video of how I coated them, and a test with all links on both tracks coated when I have time. -ED- Edited January 3, 2015 by Nazgarot Quote
Nazgarot Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) I do not think bonding will be a problem. This is a industry standard product, and it sticks pretty hard to any slick surface. After application you can tear it off like a plastic film, but you need to cut lose a slice of it to start pulling it off. This should be an advantage as you can reverse the process with some work... -ED- EDIT: It works like a charm! Best solution I've tested! See my test topic. EDIT 2: Thread merged. removed link to other thread. Edited January 3, 2015 by Nazgarot Quote
Phoxtane Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 With a generous application of this stuff, you could turn the tread links into something suitable for the bottom of a boat. Or am I thinking of Flex-Seal? Quote
Jim Posted January 3, 2015 Author Posted January 3, 2015 I've started a new topic for the test. Result will be published here as well. I have merged your new topic back into this one. Let's keep the thread grip discussion to a single topic. Quote
Nazgarot Posted January 10, 2015 Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Some information was lost in the merging process, but thanks. I've uploaded two videos to youtube showing the process of coating tracks in PlastiDip, and a test of the modified tracks. I put three brown links in each track so it should be easier to see when they are slipping. Have a look. I gave the simple MOC I created for the tracktest to my kids to play with so I could test how well they handle wear and tear, and after a week and two sets of batteries they are still as good as when I modified them. The test with every second link coated is made with these treadlinks, and the left track in the test with all links coated are comprised of the same used links. As you can see there is no difference between them and the newly coated links of the right track. Lego Technic tredlink tests with PalstiDip coating. Lego Technic treadlink; Coating with PlastiDip -ED- EDIT: Some problem getting the videos embedded. This forum obviously doesn't handle https addresses in the video urls... Edited January 10, 2015 by Nazgarot Quote
Richard Dower Posted January 10, 2015 Posted January 10, 2015 I perdonally think the Mindstorms solution is the best, as it uses genuine lego parts to solve them problem. I have several tracked vehicles and they all suffer the same fate....you cant roll them for crap! unless you have a surface like sand paper nothing will move the bloody tracks! Quote
Nazgarot Posted January 11, 2015 Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) I perdonally think the Mindstorms solution is the best, as it uses genuine lego parts to solve them problem. I have several tracked vehicles and they all suffer the same fate....you cant roll them for crap! unless you have a surface like sand paper nothing will move the bloody tracks! The PlastiDip solution solves the rolling problem as well. The tracks have a lot of friction, almost comparable to Lego tires. They look completely original and it costs next to nothing. The Mindstorm solution introduces a lot of vibration as well as costing a LOT! But suit yourself. -ED- Edited January 11, 2015 by Nazgarot Quote
Jim Posted January 11, 2015 Author Posted January 11, 2015 I also think that the Mindstorms solution isn't optimal. Using the rubber parts results in a very bumpy ride. I really wish TLG would make the tread links from a different material. Quote
jabz10 Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 Resurrecting an old thread, but I see there's a few solutions (plenty of the rubber parts on Aliexpress) for the larger 57518 Lego technic tread with the 2 pinholes. But is there a similar solution for the smaller, 3873 Lego Technic link tread? Couldn't find anything for these. Quote
Jim Posted June 15, 2020 Author Posted June 15, 2020 I reckon rubber bands can work for smaller threads as well. Other than that, I don’t know a solution. Quote
JaBaCaDaBra Posted June 15, 2020 Posted June 15, 2020 How about this?https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32968527802.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.49483c00zFN4Lz&mp=1 Quote
jabz10 Posted June 16, 2020 Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) On 6/15/2020 at 7:26 PM, JaBaCaDaBra said: How about this?https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32968527802.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.49483c00zFN4Lz&mp=1 Yes those are for the larger Tank treads.. but I'm looking for something for these treads 3873 Lego link treads. Edited June 16, 2020 by jabz10 Quote
Andman Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 I^m also looking for a solution for the small tread links. I found this blog post. But they did not mention where they got the rubber pieces. Does any one know where to get these? Quote
Maaboo the Witch Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 48 minutes ago, Andman said: I^m also looking for a solution for the small tread links. It's called carpet. Quote
Andman Posted September 11, 2020 Posted September 11, 2020 16 minutes ago, Maaboo35 said: It's called carpet. Whats the best way to attach it to the treads? Quote
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