Effe's MOC Corner

[Doc_Brown]

Awesome work! :thumbup:

Can't wait to see more!

[Zerobricks]

You build fast, Effe. I'm also building something simillar to your G, but am waiting for parts.

[efferman]

yes, sometimes iam fast, but sometimes are coming me insane ideas. for example this one.

how to get a 1.9" crawler tire with wheel on a 4:1 planetary gear without a huge distance between wheel and steering pivot point?

solution= forget the wheel!

[timslegos]

I love your creativity effe, although I think you should put a cover on the none gear side because the turntable is rather ugly.

tim

[efferman]

sure tim, my plan is a 6x6 dish, which fits in the unimog rims.

[Someonenamedjon]

Will the turntable slip inside the wheel if there is too much weight?

[efferman]

I dont think that this will happen. The ansmanns fit tight on it.

[Someonenamedjon]

Then its just time to wait and see

[Zerobricks]

I used this soution on Power Puller wheels in my Tatra 8x8. It works good, but if you get dirt between those 8 tooth gears or turntable, the friction egts quite high!

[efferman]

reminds me to my gearcrusher

so i have to hold my eight planetary gear wheels clean. thanks for this message.

Edited April 13, 2013 by efferman

[Alasdair Ryan]

That is a nice compact solution too planetary geared wheel hubs.

[efferman]

it is highly possible that the kat has changed his scale

[Someonenamedjon]

Well thats quite a big (or small) scale change, from the original, the rims and about the size of the original tires you used.

Edited April 14, 2013 by Someonenamedjon

[efferman]

the scale fits in both sizes to their tires,

has someone used this dampers for suspensions before and how does it works in terrain?

[Nazgarot]

They work very well as long as the vehicle isn't to heavy. I used them on the front suspension of a Scania truck MOC I'm working on. They where very good when I had a test frame with little weight on it (read: only PF and frame), but with a cabin an some extra weight they got to compressed for my taste. I completely redid the suspension setup (will be presented at a later date), but not before doing some off-road testing. They where great, especially on large changes in the terrain, like going over rocks.

This looks quite good, but I'll be disappointed if you don't use the more compact twin front axles for something... They amazed me. I think one of your primary skills as a builder is that you can make very compact constructions work (like the last G you made. That was awesome!).

PS:

I see that you sometimes use to studless beams with bushings on the axles to center them. Might I suggest using a "watts linkage"? I used it for a rebuild of the old 8850 rally support truck, and it works great.

[efferman]

a bit compression is good because it allows better ground contact. theires is only one way to see if 8 dampers enough for the truck

for the smaller front axles i will make a ldd file could use it later maybe

@ps

i have tried the watts linkage on my unimog Moc and it needs to much space for my opinion and it offers no significant advantage to my liftarm method. and would you not say that it works good?

[Zerobricks]

I think those dampeners may be a bit slow?

[efferman]

this is the only fear i have. but the Kat will be slow too. if the dampers are to slow i will see it first, when i have built the full chassis and received the 6 dampers which i have ordered today

Edited April 14, 2013 by efferman

[Zerobricks]

Or use pneumatic pumps, they are less slow.

[efferman]

and at every bump i will have a pfft. then i could call em the *arting 8x8

maybe greasing the the damper inside with silicon grease to make em faster?

Edited April 14, 2013 by efferman

[Someonenamedjon]

what is the difference between damped and regular? this question has been bothering me for ages

[DLuders]

From this HowStuffWorks article, "Unless a dampening structure is present, a car spring will extend and release the energy it absorbs from a bump at an uncontrolled rate. The spring­ will continue to bounce at its natural frequency until all of the energy originally put into it is used up. A suspension built on springs alone would make for an extremely bouncy ride and, depending on the terrain, an uncontrollable car.

"Enter the shock absorber, or snubber, a device that controls unwanted spring motion through a process known as dampening. Shock absorbers slow down and reduce the magnitude of vibratory motions by turning the kinetic energy of suspension movement into heat energy that can be dissipated through hydraulic fluid. To understand how this works, it's best to look inside a shock absorber to see its structure and function."

[Someonenamedjon]

oh...wait, so does the regular shock absorber shake like that? the regular lego one doesn't have fluids and stuff...

Edited April 14, 2013 by Someonenamedjon

[dhc6twinotter]

I like those planetary wheels!

[DLuders]

oh...wait, so does the regular shock absorber shake like that? the regular lego one doesn't have fluids and stuff...

No, because the "sprung weight" of a Lego car is fairly light. If you drain the Shock Oil out of an RC car's shock absorbers, however, and then tried to do jumps with the car, you will quickly "bottom out" the suspension. Springs only push the car back up when you hit a pothole; the shock absorber's damping capability make the passengers keep their teeth!

Edited April 15, 2013 by DLuders