How much track?

[IAmWillGibson]

Hello Train folk!

I've yet to venture into the wilds of LEGO Trains, but I think I may start, soon, but gingerly. I've convinced myself I need to get a train for the annual Christmas display, and the Emerald Night looks like it'll fit the bill splendidly. Now, I see it doesn't come with any track, which is where my question comes from.

I've no real intention at this juncture to motorize the thing [eventually... eventually] but I'm wondering how much basic track, number of parts and which, I would need to build a simple oval to go around the Winter Village, an area of probably... no more than 6 square feet. Closer to 4, I'd guess.

Forgive me if this is an insultingly simplistic question, but I dunno how big the average track chunk is, so it makes it hard to budget out how many of, say 7499 you'd need [or whatever is recommended].

Thanks for the help!

[Sokratesz]

8 Lego straight rails make about one meter. A Lego rail curve has a total diameter of 88 studs, which is about 70cm.

Lego straight track pieces are 16x8 studs, and one stud is exactly 0.8 centimetres, so you can work it all out from there.

In terms of what is nice to have for a decent railway, that's all up to you. For variation I like to have at minimum two interconnected circles so you can run at least two trains simultaneously.

- Sok.

Edited October 31, 2011 by Sokratesz

[IAmWillGibson]

Thanks, dude... I think I can crunch some of those numbers down and figure it out.

I know the flex track is frowned upon, but as a starter-outer, I think I'll grab one of the track kits and just work with that for a bit. I'd like the Switching Tracks kit for variation, too, but it depends on the budget. I feel trains can get real pricey, real quick.

8 Lego straight rails make about one meter. A Lego rail curve has a total diameter of 88 studs, which is about 70cm.

Lego straight track pieces are 16x8 studs, and one stud is exactly 0.8 centimetres, so you can work it all out from there.

In terms of what is nice to have for a decent railway, that's all up to you. For variation I like to have at minimum two interconnected circles so you can run at least two trains simultaneously.

- Sok.

[Mr Benn]

You may find it useful to download the Bluebrick software - it will help you arrage your plates and show you how much track you need - search elsewhere on the forums for it (I'm sure you can find a download somwehre in the train tech thread!)

As a general rule, 2 straight tracks = 32 studs ~ 25-26 cm - I can get 6 plates in a row onto a 150 table with a tiny (1-2cm) overhang at each end.

One thing - the Emerald Night is definitely longer than you think - the loco with tender itself is about 4 track sections long - if you want it to really look nice you might want more straight track than you originally thought :)

[gifinim]

It doesn't really matter how much you think you need now, you'll soon end up realising that it's not enough!

Don't forget that sets like the Level Crossing (7936) come with some straight track and can be found a lot cheaper than the track sets.

[domboy]

I didn't see anyone say it outright, and if you're using flex track you may not care about the regular curved tracks... 16 curved tracks are need to make a circle or oval I believe. I bought mine via bricklink.com since the straight and curved pack is no longer available. Curve tracks can be found pretty cheap there.

I'm also working on an oval for the Emerald Night for Christmas, hoping I have enough tracks to go around the tree. If you have either the 7036 Dwarves Mine or 6761 Bandit's Secret Hide-Out you can use the individual old style straight rails in those sets as well (or even old blue ones) with a bit of work to keep them lined up... that's what I'm doing to try to cut the bill for this down. It will look a bit funny so you may not want that for a display setup... I'm going more for functionality than looks as I am planing on motorizing the train, and it's got to make it all the way around the tree...

I feel trains can get real pricey, real quick.

Yup!!

Edited October 31, 2011 by domboy

[splatman]

you can use the individual old style straight rails in those sets as well (or even old blue ones) with a bit of work to keep them lined up... that's what I'm doing to try to cut the bill for this down. It will look a bit funny so you may not want that for a display setup... I'm going more for functionality than looks as I am planing on motorizing the train, and it's got to make it all the way around the tree...

Use the old tracks only in the hidden parts of the layout. Then it'll look good, and you'll save a bit of deniro.

[domboy]

Use the old tracks only in the hidden parts of the layout. Then it'll look good, and you'll save a bit of deniro.

Excellent point!

[IAmWillGibson]

So quick primer for my own numb brain:

New trains currently count as "RC," correct?

Previous to this was 9V, which were powered track, I guess? But were the same scale [or gauge? I dunno the right term] so the tracks are compatible. I think. At least as far as physical connections and/or a non-powered train is concerned.

And before that were the 12v or blue/grey single track things, which look... probably somewhat more complicated than I'm ready for, and/or incompatible.

I think I almost have a handle on this.

[Mr Benn]

So quick primer for my own numb brain:

New trains currently count as "RC," correct?

Previous to this was 9V, which were powered track, I guess? But were the same scale [or gauge? I dunno the right term] so the tracks are compatible. I think. At least as far as physical connections and/or a non-powered train is concerned.

And before that were the 12v or blue/grey single track things, which look... probably somewhat more complicated than I'm ready for, and/or incompatible.

I think I almost have a handle on this.

The new trains are Power Functions so a slightly different system - they are radio controlled, but 'RC' refers to a specific control mechanism that was previously used.

The track Lego uses has always been the same gauge so any era train will happily be pushed around any of the track.

9V track had metal powered rails - the motor had metal wheels to run thr current through the motor - so you can't run a 9V system on a plastic track.

12V track was plastic, as it is today, but had a 3rd, central conducting rail - 12V motors have pickups underneath that run this current through the motor. The conducting rail can be fitted to 4.5V and 12V plastic track easily, but is a bit of a pain to fit to later-era track due to things like the spacing between the sleepers and the alignment of studs.

If you are only going to use Power Functions for your train, the currently available track is going to be your best bet - if you're avoiding flexi track then both the curves and straights are still pretty inexpensive. I would strongly recommend the acquisition of the yellow cargo train (7939) (still available in a lot of shops and off the website but being replaced by a new, not-as-good red one) - it's a nice set in its own right to start off with, and it'll give you the track you'll need for your oval. It'll also get you a few of the PF bits you'll need - the Emerald Night does however require some 'special' PF parts that don't come in the sets because it's gear driven. Lots of info on these boards about how you get that organised (and also in the instructions - maybe download a copy of the instructions off the Lego website to see what you need to do).

[Snapshot]

The new trains are Power Functions so a slightly different system - they are radio controlled, but 'RC' refers to a specific control mechanism that was previously used.

If only they were radio controlled! It's not radio, it's infra-red so is quite good indoors where the signal can bounce off the walls and ceiling but in open spaces like display halls the range of the remote control can be very limited. PF replaced RC as the infra-red control system. The problem with RC is that the receiver and battery box were built into the train bases so there was a limit on what you could build. PF uses a discrete 4x4x4 receiver and separate 4x8x4 battery box so they can be used in more than just trains.

I agree completely about starting with 7939. The parts needed for the EN are just an XL motor, optional lights and an extra IR receiver and battery box as the hand control is in 7939.

Edited November 1, 2011 by Snapshot

[Mr Benn]

I agree completely about starting with 7939. The parts needed for the EN are just an XL motor, optional lights and an extra IR receiver and battery box as the hand control is in 7939.

... And if you're going to run it around your Christmas tree, the lights will really make a difference - they even make my boxy cargo train look pretty atmospheric in low light!

[domboy]

Previous to this was 9V, which were powered track, I guess? But were the same scale [or gauge? I dunno the right term] so the tracks are compatible. I think. At least as far as physical connections and/or a non-powered train is concerned.

To specifically address this, yes, the current plastic tracks and 9V powered tracks are physically compatible and can be mixed if you're running just battery powered trains. I've got a mix of the two myself. That said, the 9V tracks are much more common in the old gray color, where as I believe the new plastic track is only available in newer bluish-gray color if you care about color matching. But as splatman previously pointed out, you can always use those out of sight...

Edited November 1, 2011 by domboy

[IAmWillGibson]

Ooh, new question: do PF trains need the IR controller thing? Or is the IR part of it that an additional module or whatever?

If it's not abundantly clear, I've never ventured into this category of LEGO. I'm sort of trying to figure out the minimum you'd need to add to the Emerald Night to get it to do a circle under its own power, 'cause there's a lot of "just add this" on the shop.lego site.

[kyphur]

Ooh, new question: do PF trains need the IR controller thing? Or is the IR part of it that an additional module or whatever?

A single IR Controller (I assume your mean the part you hold in your hand) can control all 8 possibilities (red/blue channel on 4 frequencies).

So in essence you only really need 1.

If you want to run the train manually, you can remove the IR Receiver & controller then just connect the motor directly to the battery but only the LiPo Rechargeable battery has a speed setting so with the AAA Battery box it would run on full speed.

Edited November 1, 2011 by kyphur

[Veeb0rg]

To specifically address this, yes, the current plastic tracks and 9V powered tracks are physically compatible and can be mixed if you're running just battery powered trains. I've got a mix of the two myself. That said, the 9V tracks are much more common in the old gray color, where as I believe the new plastic track is only available in newer bluish-gray color if you care about color matching. But as splatman previously pointed out, you can always use those out of sight...

You could always well the 9v track to a 9v guy and buy PF track, or work some sort of trade.