AAA Battery box 88000 disassembly

[AussieJimbo]

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=87513

(correct image/part, sorry JopieK.)

Starting with an opened AAA battery box, you take away the dark grey (or red) outer part and you are left with the light grey top part with the switch/PF connector and the dark grey battery holder part. I want to separate the two parts.

I thought it would be straight forward as there are four small Phillips head screws at the corners holding it together but I just can't get the screws to budge.

Has anyone successfully taken it apart without breaking it?

:classic:

Edited December 17, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[JopieK]

there are two screws at the bottom, so either you have a different version or you are totally confused (or at least make me confused). It is very easy to open.

[AussieJimbo]

Starting with an opened AAA battery box...

I'm trying to take apart the inner piece as described above.

:classic:

[JopieK]

I'm trying to take apart the inner piece as described above.

:classic:

ah, sorry, too early (in Holland) and only one cup of coffee yet ;)

But so, you don't disassemble 88000 but part 87513

[AussieJimbo]

ah, sorry, too early and only one cup of coffee yet ;)

But so, you don't disassemble 88000 but part 87513

Oops, yes that's right. (Too late the change the title.)

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=87513

There are four screws in line with the studs on the corners holding it together (from behind in this image) but I just can't seem to shift them.

:classic:

Edited December 17, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[pinioncorp]

What on earth for? There are battery holders that you can buy that would be far easier than the disassembly of a LEGO battery box.

[AussieJimbo]

So I can connect a 9V battery but still take advantage of the control and overload protection provided by the Lego circuitry. I'm not fond of the direct 9V battery to IR receiver solution I've seen before. My goal is to reduce space and weight without risking a burnout of other PF bits.

As it is I've just got the wires from a standard non-Lego 9V battery connect connector jammed into the correct positive and negative terminals on the AAA battery holder. That's taken the weight down to 75 grams compared to 115 grams for a loaded AAA battery box.

I reckon the grey bit I want to remove is another 10-15 grams but more importantly if I can get rid of it I've got space to put the 9V battery right underneath the switch part and reduce the height by almost 2 bricks.

:classic:

Edited December 17, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[mred]

So I can connect a 9V battery but still take advantage of the control and overload protection provided by the Lego circuitry. I'm not fond of the direct 9V battery to IR receiver solution I've seen before. My goal is to reduce space and weight without risking a burnout of other PF bits.

As it is I've just got the wires from a standard non-Lego 9V battery connect connector jammed into the correct positive and negative terminals on the AAA battery holder. That's taken the weight down to 75 grams compared to 115 grams for a loaded AAA battery box.

I reckon the grey bit I want to remove is another 10-15 grams but more importantly if I can get rid of it I've got space to put the 9V batter right underneath the switch part and reduce the height by almost 2 bricks.

:classic:

Jimbo, the secret is the darker grey piece is not just one piece. So what you need to do is remove the endmost bits, which is one piece that goes across the bottom too, the part that hold the batteries with the metal contacts is a seperate piece, and is attached to the pcb under the lid by wire. I'll upload a photo in a minute.

[bricks n bolts]

I've no idea as don't have one but I saw this guys solution on brickshelf if that helps.

[mred]

As promised, a couple of photos

First off, the dismantled box. Note the two sections and the connecting wire which goes to the PCB.

Dismantling. I found it best to try to pull the top parts of the outer piece away from the inner, it seems like there is high friction caused by the back of the metal strips.

Removing the inner portion will make more room inside, but the outer part will still be needed in order the screw the cover on....

Actually, I need to take that back. It is part of the inner portion that holds the screws which hold the whole box together, although I feel that the outer portion could be modified to take the screws, with a little hot melt glue or similar.....

Now, if anyone wants to suggest the best rechargable system that could be put in here, I'm all ears

Edited December 17, 2011 by mred

[AussieJimbo]

Thanks, Ed. Very helpful.

So the corner screws are just really tight then. I'll have to try harder.

I bought a rechargable 9V battery today and the intention is to build a smaller outer cover to hold it, maybe by sectioning and rejoining the original.

Cheers.

Thanks also for that link, bnb.

Creative, if destructive, use of the old AA box

:classic:

Edited December 17, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[mred]

Thanks, Ed. Very helpful.

So the the screws are just really tight then. I'll have to try harder.

I bought a rechargable 9V battery today and the intention is to build a smaller outer cover to hold it, maybe by sectioning and rejoining the original.

Cheers.

Thanks also for that link, bnb.

Creative, if destructive, use of the old AA box

:classic:

I had the screws all the way out, they are fairly tight though. But even with them out, the pieces hold together quite firmly.....

[AussieJimbo]

Finally found the screwdriver I was looking for and it was easy.

Didn't have enough purchase with a jewellers screwdriver. :doh:

Easing everything apart was a bit tricky but splitting the two dark grey bits helped. Knowing what was inside was useful.

:classic:

Edited December 17, 2011 by AussieJimbo

[Dan-147]

Just curious about what is finally underneath that light gray piece. I was wondering if one of you could snap a picture and post it. Thank-you.

Dan-147

[mred]

Just curious about what is finally underneath that light gray piece. I was wondering if one of you could snap a picture and post it. Thank-you.

Dan-147

Is that what you're after, or one more level of destruction (undoing the two screws that hold the PCB on?)

[clcwong]

Is that what you're after, or one more level of destruction (undoing the two screws that hold the PCB on?)

Maybe get the PCB and pack it with some stuff will save you much room

[mred]

Here is the final level of destruction:

From left to right on the PCB, we have the pins for the PF connector, the contacts for the slide switch, the power switch, and the LED. In the lighter piece, we have the slide switch, then power switch, and then the LED lens, with corresponding holes underneath...

[Dan-147]

Here is the final level of destruction:

Thanks for the prompt reply. Actually, the "first level of destruction" was OK for me. I just wanted to get an idea of how much space the PCB and it's components took up. It was still interesting to see the "final level". Thanks again

Dan-147

[Hrw-Amen]

Gosh! I did not realise it was that complicated. I thought it was just a couple of wires to an on/off switch. It is a good job I've never had to take one apart!

[Povl H. Pedersen]

Anybody tried to use it with 6 pcs of 10440 batteries instead ?

They are 3.6V each, so I assume you do with one two or 3 batteries in each side, you just need to get all positive terminal connected together to plus, and all negatives to minus (put them in parallel intends of in series).

The rechargeable Lithium cell do have a longer shelf life (no auto-discharge), lower weight, and has 350-500 mAh eac. In parallel this is 1050-1500 mAh. So half the weight at same or larger capacity. This would be a poor-mans rechargeable battery box. And the 10440 are only around $1.50-$2.00 a piece in china (ebay). The rechargeable AA and AAAs i bought in china are all lower than listed capacity.

[F0NIX]

Very interesting!

Thanx for the picture of the inner parts.

Now I just wait for someone to take apart the rechargeable battery box :)

What about putting some LiPo batteries in the AAA box? You will miss the charger plug, but that could possibly be arranged in other ways?

[legoboy3998]

the 4 inner screws and the ones holding the pcb board on, I believe are star screws, not philips. The rechargeable battery box uses star screws.

Sal

WFB, WI

[mred]

the 4 inner screws and the ones holding the pcb board on, I believe are star screws, not philips. The rechargeable battery box uses star screws.

Sal

WFB, WI

Nope, all philips head screws on mine....... Haven't pulled a rechargable box apart.....

[Duq]

So I can connect a 9V battery but still take advantage of the control and overload protection provided by the Lego circuitry. I'm not fond of the direct 9V battery to IR receiver solution I've seen before. My goal is to reduce space and weight without risking a burnout of other PF bits.

As it is I've just got the wires from a standard non-Lego 9V battery connect connector jammed into the correct positive and negative terminals on the AAA battery holder. That's taken the weight down to 75 grams compared to 115 grams for a loaded AAA battery box.

I reckon the grey bit I want to remove is another 10-15 grams but more importantly if I can get rid of it I've got space to put the 9V battery right underneath the switch part and reduce the height by almost 2 bricks.

:classic:

Is saving weight your only goal here? You do realise that the capacity of 9V batteries is much lower than AAA batteries? So you're saving 50 gram on the weight of a train but it'll still only run half as long.

My KoF shunter uses a 9V battery and I can tell you from experience it doesn't last long on track.

[AussieJimbo]

Yeah, I realise that the 9V has less capacity but keeping the weight down is critical for my little train:

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=61158&st=15

I also want to take advantage of the space reduction to try to get all the PF bits into a future small scale diesel loco.

I'm pondering relocating the little capacitor you can see in mred's pic above. It would save a couple of plates of height if I could shift it to the side of the board rather than having it sticking up in the middle.

:classic:

Edited December 20, 2011 by AussieJimbo