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[gotoAndLego]

The builder might also have run 2 wide bracing between the inside walls and the roof fastens to that.

[Cribs]

I apologize for posting the large image. I should have posted a link to it instead (i didn't want to post a smaller version because I wanted to keep the detail of the lego pieces so someone might be able to see something I couldn't)

Also, does anyone know how the roof is attached at a 70 and 110 degrees on the main building?

[JackJonespaw]

Hmmm... Probably by using some hinge plates and then placing the roof on there. Maybe a few of those light bley 1x4 tiles are plates.

[JackJonespaw]

For a MOC I'm starting to make, I need to make a scarecrow. One in a field, not the Batman one. Does anyone have any pictures or ideas?

[jFox]

Off the top of my head, I would look into some of these:

A wizard hat (maybe black or brown)

A skull or a pumpkin head http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=3626bpb388&in=S

One or two ragged troll capes.

Maybe one of the peasant torsos from the medieval market village? Looks kind of torn and ragged. Pluck out the arms, see if you can put some bars in the holes for sticks?

-Or if that doesn't work, maybe one of those 1x1 bricks with 4 studs around the sides. Turn it so you can have the head on top, bars on the sides, and stud on the bottom for another pole/stick.

Throw in some skeleton bones/arms here and there for hands or feet.

Let us know what you come up with, I'd love to see the results.

[Bricktooth]

Maybe something like this?

3 1x1 round pieces, a 1x2 tile, connected to the torso, with the appropriate colors and printing, of course.

Edited July 19, 2012 by Bricktooth

[JackJonespaw]

Off the top of my head, I would look into some of these:

A wizard hat (maybe black or brown)

A skull or a pumpkin head http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=3626bpb388&in=S

One or two ragged troll capes.

Maybe one of the peasant torsos from the medieval market village? Looks kind of torn and ragged. Pluck out the arms, see if you can put some bars in the holes for sticks?

-Or if that doesn't work, maybe one of those 1x1 bricks with 4 studs around the sides. Turn it so you can have the head on top, bars on the sides, and stud on the bottom for another pole/stick.

Throw in some skeleton bones/arms here and there for hands or feet.

Let us know what you come up with, I'd love to see the results.

Wow, thanks for the suggestion! I don't have any pumpkin heads, but I may use the back of a tan head, so it won't show when I take the picture. I'll probably use the 4 studded 1x1.

Maybe something like this?

3 1x1 round pieces, a 1x2 tile, connected to the torso, with the appropriate colors and printing, of course.

I'll use the round pieces, but I want the arms to stick out. Thanks for taking the time to make that, though!

[CM4Sci]

Whipped this up in about 2 minutes:

Just get a HP Dementor cape and put it underneath the neck stud. No illegal builds!

EDIT: If you don't have a Mangagaurd body, use the SW Battle Droid body with a 48729 (clip?) with a stud with a hole in the middle on top?

-Sci

Edited July 19, 2012 by CM4S

[Darkdragon]

The Voodoo Jack head would be a great one to use (I'd probably use it backwards).

[legomr]

Off the top of my head, I think you can get pumpkin minifig heads from the Lego game "Monster 4".

[The Blue Brick]

I always thought the scarecrow in set 9348 was nice. A bit simple, but gets the job done.

http://www.brickset.com/detail/?Set=9348-1

[JackJonespaw]

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys! I whipped this up quickly. It's not as secure as I'd like, but as long as I don't knock it over, it should be fine.

[Legoroni]

I have this idea for a moc, and I need a circular floor. I am not sure how best to approach this, so I'm asking for help here. I need it to have a diameter of around 32 studs, give or take and a smaller hole in the center, about 16 studs wide. I guess calling this a doughnut may help for visuals. Please help!

Edited July 25, 2012 by Legoroni

[______]

Have you ever seen this ball? If you made it 1 stud wide, instead of a ball, and a lot bigger that would work.

[Legoroni]

Ok, I see what you're saying, I'll try it. Any other ideas, though?

[______]

Quick Google search, Don't know what the picture is though.

I know it's not LEGO, and it's on squares, but it should do. There are bigger ones than this around on the internet which should do for the 32 studs thing.

[davee123]

Well, the geometry works pretty perfectly-- If you get about 50 of these:

And build 25 wedges, each 8 studs 'wide', 2 studs on one side and 4 studs on the other side, and line them up, you get roughly a 16-stud diameter 'hole' in the center, and about 32-stud diameter outer diameter.

DaveE

[Legoroni]

^Are you saying to make a larger wedge out of smaller wedge parts? That would be more circular.

[davee123]

^Are you saying to make a larger wedge out of smaller wedge parts? That would be more circular.

Yes. You need 25 wedges, each shaped like an irregular trapezoid. One side of each wedge is 2 studs, and the parallel side is 4 studs. Then, there's a side that's perpendicular to those sides, which is 8 studs. The remaining side isn't an even stud length, but it's roughly 8.25 studs long. The top of each wedge would be made out of (for example) 2 of those wedge plates, a 1x8 plate, and a 1x4 plate.

Arrange the wedges in a circular shape. You can use 1x4 hinge plates to attach them, or other connections, depending on the details of how you want to fit the floor into your MOC, or whatever other constraints exist. The resulting circle is roughly 32 studs in diameter, with a 16 stud diameter hole in the center. Attaching it to a structure is difficult, but it's pretty circular.

DaveE

[Legoroni]

Thanks for explaining that. I was a little confused at first. I think I'll try this. Thanks guys!

[legomr]

I'm not sure if this is going to be helpful, but check out the Death Star (10188) instructions on brickfactory.info, for example. That's a pretty stable and good more or less circular floor in my opinion.

[commodore_legolas]

Thanks, But I wanted to know how to attach them? Thanks!

[Siegfried]

Thanks, But I wanted to know how to attach them? Thanks!

It's easy; there are two pins on the old flames. These (not by design I've heard) fit into the base of one of the flames. But the new part has no pins...

Here....

[Oran]

I am looking for some LEGO Expert Builders for advice. Mainly to save time in the creation of a "build" I am creating. Those who have built large scale creations using the minimum of bricks and have the expertise for the best way to build it. The best combination of bricks to make the strongest build that will stay together being shipped across country. I am building the shell of a fifth wheel camper. The actual build will use black for windows, white shell, dark gray roof and floor. The inside will not be seen so bracing can be anything. It is overall in dimension: 96 studs x 32 studs (approx 30" long, 10" wide, and 12" high). Using LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) I have created some prototypes BUT the staying power of it to stay together being bounced around the country cannot be determined without a lot of trial and error. I have used 1x5x6 panels. I have used 1x8 bricks. Maybe use 2x6 bricks? A combination of different ones? Have thoughts of some Technic pieces for holding it together. Lots of ideas BUT what would be the best combination? Anyone interested in helping?

[ShaydDeGrai]

I am looking for some LEGO Expert Builders for advice. (...) It is overall in dimension: 96 studs x 32 studs (approx 30" long, 10" wide, and 12" high). Using LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) I have created some prototypes BUT the staying power of it to stay together being bounced around the country cannot be determined without a lot of trial and error...

This is really, for me, the pitfall of LDD. In virtual space everything just stays where you put it. In real brick, you often end up with something that can't even support it own weight or is so delicate, sections collapse under the pressure of squeezing bricks together in the course of building things. Still, it is a useful prototyping tool even if, as you've discovered, it lacks something when transitioning to the real world.

I've learned my lessons the hard way when it comes to larger scale models (having dropped 5000+ piece models only to see nearly every single piece come completely separated from the others and find its own unique vector in which to fly) so usually if I know scalable strength is going to be an issue I resort to technic parts (the long ones with the studs for "normal' brick connections, the smooth beams for locking vertical tiers of bricks together).

To make long "studs on top" beams, I use two rows of long technic (1x10 or better) bricks connected laterally by black pins, staggered by a 50% overlap between the left and right runs, and sandwiched on top and bottom by 2xWhatever plates. I'd use beams like this to run front to back along the length of the model. Then I'd use shorter, similar construction as spacers between the core beams. They can be connected with stacked plates, but using "L" shaped technic bricks and pins in the corners will add even more rigidity. Taken together these form a structural grid within a horizontal plane.

For something like your camper I'd think you want to create at least three cross sectional grids that define the trailer at the wheel base, the longest point where the cab comes forward, and the top.

In the vertical direction the structural grids can be connected with columns of (mostly) 2x4+ bricks and plates, but an ordinary stack can still get vibrated to death if it gets too tall so put in a few technic bricks with pins and use technic beams vertically to pull everything together. The magic sequence to remember is that brick-with-pin, 2 plates, and another brick-with-pin lines up perfectly with the hole spacing on the beams. The vertical connectors will keep the stack in compression and the tube and studs on the individual bricks will help fight shearing forces, so taken together you should be able to build a pretty strong and durable infrastructure.

Once the shape of this inner cage is worked out, the only task left is skinning it with the camper exterior. For maximum strength you'll probably need to build the skin and the cage simultaneously so that the skin fully integrates with the frame but since the frame is being built mostly from bricks with studs you should have plenty of contact surface to work with.

I'm sure there are other viable solutions, but that's how I'd tackle it.

Hope this helps.