ASK HERE MOC-stuck? Ask for general building advice here!

[Vee]

@TwentyLeggedHen: how do you make sure that the red axle (grey in your build), the one that you push to turn on the light, will effectively carry the blue cross block along with it instead of just sliding through/inside it? It is just based on the friction between the two parts? Is this safe?

[Vee]

I think I got a solution. It is heavily based on TwentyLeggedHen's own solution. Black, white, red and dark orange bricks cannot be moved, they are part of the roof structure. Space around is very restricted now. The two 1x2 grey bricks with two holes are also connected to the roof tiles, so very secure. I'd like to have used a 2M lever with two circular holes but since it seems it does not exist, I had to use the 4M lever that has two circular holes in the center. Tan bricks are in place of the light brick for testing purposes. All seems to work fine now, at least in LDD.

<LXF file - resting position>

<LXF file - pushed position>

In the "pushed position", 4M lever hits the white brick at the same time the grey axle reaches the top of the tan brick (= on/off button fully pressed).

Edited January 16, 2014 by Vee

[kibosh]

Good evening,

I just started building my first Modular MOC. It's a corner building, and I'd like the doors to be on a diagonal like in the Cafe Corner. I want to have double doors though, making the opening for my doors 8 studs wide. Any advice on how to build this so the doors are at a perfect 45 degree angle? I can't seem to find a solution for this.

Any help would be most appreciated!

Thanks!

[CM4Sci]

Try looking at the instructions for the Palace Cinema, as the set has 45 degree doors.

-Sci

[62Bricks]

If you place two 1x1 bricks at the corners of a 6x6-stud space, the distance between the centers of the studs will be equal to 7.07 brick widths, or nearly exactly the distance between the centers of the end studs of an 8-stud plate. Like this:

I used this geometry for this construction of a 45-degree smooth wall on an 8x8 corner plate:

[Doom2099]

I used this geometry for this construction of a 45-degree smooth wall on an 8x8 corner plate:

Nice idea and nice drawing and photos showing how easy it is to realize. This'll be useful, thanks!

[kibosh]

If you place two 1x1 bricks at the corners of a 6x6-stud space, the distance between the centers of the studs will be equal to 7.07 brick widths, or nearly exactly the distance between the centers of the end studs of an 8-stud plate. Like this:

I used this geometry for this construction of a 45-degree smooth wall on an 8x8 corner plate:

Thank you. I was playing with 1x1 rounds attached to the ends of a 1x8 plate and saw that it seemed to work as you show. Because it was forced a tad in this simple model because the math isn't perfect, I was afraid this would be magnified when I built the entire door section.

I'll download the palace cinema instructions too to take a look. Does it have double doors? I looked at my CC, and the single door just doesn't translate. The revolving door of the GE just doesn't fit the space I'm working with as well.

[TheLegoDr]

Why not just use hinge plates? I'd think that would allow a large range of angles. You could attach them at the very least on the top and have them anchor on the bottom over tiles/+ a random stud along the pathway to give it some extra traction. I haven't tried that in real life, so I don't know how it would work, but hinge plates work great for angled walls I know.

[LEGO Guy Bri]

I used hinge plates like TheLegoDr said. It allowed me to allow the whole double door assembly to swing open to access behind it a bit easier since the second floor wasn't removable

Edited January 29, 2014 by LEGO Guy Bri

[kibosh]

Interesting... I'll try playing with hinge plates, too. Thanks!

[Vee]

A final follow-up on this thread.

The parts arrived and I was able to assemble the solution and test it "in loco". It worked great.

Thank you, TwentyLeggedHen, your help was fundamental!

Here is the final solution in LDD format.

[kibosh]

I ended up going the hinged plate route. I used 3 4-wide sections and achieved a nice bowed shape. I think I'll carry the curve through all 3 floors.

[Andy D]

Here is a video by Jamie that shows how to do angled walls, which can work wih your doors. Look at about 1:40 min. into the video.

Check out this video on YouTube:

IHIH

Andy D

Edited February 3, 2014 by Andy D

[kibosh]

Oh, those are great videos! Thanks for that.

[monolith149]

Hello everyone. I'm new to Lego and new to these forums. I have a building technique question. Since I'm new to Lego and making MOCs I thought I'd try building something simple to get some experience and practice. I settled on a lightsaber for my first MOC. While designing it and looking up pictures of lightsabers online for reference I found pics of a great looking saber. I like the hilt design and want to try that style on my saber. Here is a link to a pic:

https://www.flickr.c...57633049804582/

I can't figure out how to get the black plates attached on the 45 degree rotations on the hilt. The black plates on the 90 degree rotations are obvious, just stack up some 4x4 round bricks, plates and macaroni bricks to get the desired length and put technic pins in the holes to attach the black plates. You can see from the image that the 4x4 round brick slots on the right side of the hilt are rotated 45 degrees from the slots on the 4x4 round plate and macaroni bricks on the left side of the hilt. Since you can't rotate a 4x4 round brick 45 degrees and attach it to another 4x4 round brick or plate, how is that rotation achieved?

Any help with this would be appreciated.

[Pate-keetongu]

The old macaroni bricks without inner supports were designed to allow some offset to strenghten stuctures by putting the the each other layers in 45 degree angle. I think that technigue was used on 2007 version of Y-Wing starfighter. Basically that means that there should be two layers of macaroni bricks between the 4x4 round bricks; the ones connected to 4x4 brick can be new type.

This probably isn't crystal clearly said (it's late here) but this picture might help you: http://peeron.com/scans/358-1/7

EDIT: Actually only one layer of offset macaroni bricks is enough as they can be offsetted on the 4x4 round brick too.

Edited May 7, 2014 by pig

[monolith149]

That is perfectly clear, thank you. I had no idea there was a different mold.

[grum64]

Hello Everyone

Some of you may know me as grum64 from the Technic Forum but for those that don't, a brief introduction.

I'm disabled & unable to use my hands, but have a passion for Lego Technic. The nature of my disability means I build by mouth which if nothing else, teaches patience. Besides being stubborn, which helps, those who know me say I'm addicted to collecting Technic sets, having accumulated 40+ sets in the 5years since I re-kindled my love of Lego. I buy sets, old and new, faster than I can build, the 8043 & 8110 took over 17 weeks each!

Well, that's enough of my ramblings, here's my problem.

I'm hoping one of the gifted folk out there can help me with the rear of this amazing Shelby Cobra I've been asked to build for my cousin who's restoring the genuine article.

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=422647

For the life of me I can't get my head round the techniques used. I've tried for around 3 months using LDD but with very unsatisfactory results. I've asked the builder if he has a set of instructions but he hasn't and won't be making any but has given me his blessing to try building it.

Due to my disability, and the fact that all my spare parts are Technic, physically experimenting with parts is difficult. I can build Lego by mouth but taking it apart the same way ranges from very difficult to nigh on impossible!

I've done the mid body, engine and little of the front (with the same problem as I'm having with the rear but am hoping to use lessons learnt from any help received to complete it) but I'm hoping that someone can help me by either building the rear up to 'boot catch' level in LDD/LDraw or sending clear instructions using same of the techniques needed/used.

Any and all help would be very, very gratefully received.

Thank you.

grum64

Edited June 30, 2014 by grum64

[turbo1013]

bug post

Edited June 10, 2014 by turbo1013

[turbo1013]

ayon one done thus in lego yet,,

would like to see

[turbo1013]

anyone do the starblazer yamato

would love to see it

abither one i found

omg this one is sick

another one

[rollermonkey]

I like the bottom two, shame the pictures are so small... And can't really see the Wave Motion Gun on any but the little blue one.

I always found it funny how the spaceship Yamato was easily at least an order of magnitude larger than the battleship Yamato.

(Also: This is probably best as a Sci-Fi topic, or maybe licensed.)

Edited June 10, 2014 by rollermonkey

[Fugazi]

bug post

Please don't start new topics for every inspirational idea you can think of. This here is a good place to ask about MOCs. Also use proper capitalization and spelling.

[turbo1013]

i was preety sure i posted apc in lego general, then upon checking i found the apc where (bug post) is and removed and re made sure it was in the general section, and reposted it, and then i poseted about the yamato and they both ended up here, i really dont understand how it happened, i use monzilla? its super freaky if any one wants to move them fine , proper speling and captilation are overrated, btw,

Edited June 11, 2014 by turbo1013

[Fugazi]

i was preety sure i posted apc in lego general, then upon checking i found the apc where (bug post) is and removed and re made sure it was in the general section, and reposted it, and then i poseted about the yamato and they both ended up here, i really dont understand how it happened, i use monzilla? its super freaky if any one wants to move them fine , proper speling and captilation are overrated, btw,

I was the one who moved your posts. And you should really make an effort and post in a readable manner while you're on EB.